can i ride 2 weeks on 8 pounds of boost before i could drive it down to the shop on a basemap 14b ecu? an im not going to go hard on it.
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The majority of the threads created can appropriately be placed in one of the Performance Tech sub-forums or Technical; and the posting of them here is detrimental to the activity of said forums. If you have any questions about where you need to place your thread PM me or one of the other mods.
For the most part you all have caught on without this post, but there have been a few habitual offenders that forced me to say this.
Everyone will get a couple of warnings from here on out, after that I just start deleting threads.
Again if you have any questions, PM me or one of the other mods.
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2 Weeks Untuned
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I wouldnt
All the time and energy youve already spent on this project....2 weeks wont kill you to wait and itll give you piece of mind when you do drive it that its good to goLast edited by King James; 10-23-2007, 10:34 PM.
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why not just turn the boost down and dont rev it? It shouldn't boost much under normal driving neway. Be very careful, don't let temptation get the best of you.MR Thread- I brought SEXY back- LOL
If it jams, force it. If it breaks, it needed replacement anyway.
Never argue with an idiot, they drag you down to their level and then beat you with with experience!!!
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^^^ I beleive he's running a DSM set up and you can't really adjust the boost.
If your running on a basemap from a reliable source (like the guys from this site) then you should be ok for two weeks. just don't beat on it. I've seen turbo's go a lot longer with out a good tune."Auto racing, bull fighting and mountain climbing are the only real sports....all others are games."
- Ernest Hemingway
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im running a 14b setup on a f22a1 block with a f22a6 head. i have a boost controller installed. just all the money i put into it, im going to be broke, until i could get 100 bucks, plus gas money, plus a day off work to take it down to the honda tunner near harrisburg and get it tunned. grr. im so pissed, i shouldof dropped in a h22 and called it a day. big mistake, but i dont regret it.
mrx chipped the ecu. im pretty sure it will go 2 weeks.miss my turbo cb7
moved onto volvos. dont know how that happened, just did
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just dont floor it, youll be alright.
undoing the charge pipe= no backpressure for the turbo= bad for the seals. i did the same thing to be safe when i drove the car untuned to get my DP fabbed up, and even put the stock injectors back in...more work than its worth, just dont floor it and you should be good.1993 CB7
2001 BB6
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i'm going on 6 months driving untuned :P
Well...self safe tuned i guess... 10.5-11AFR's and very very conservative timing...i can't wait till i actually get the timing tuned and hopefully see 10-15hp or more. (timing currently at around 16-17deg total @ 8psi, and 1deg more per psi after that...i was up to 12psi at like 12* of timing :P)
I think the important thing is AFR tuning...some engines/charge pipes will flow different amounts, so what is safe on one engine may be lean (knock condition) on another.
To have a REALLY safe map for all F22's is sort of unrealistic...some engines might have restricted flow so much that it would be way too rich to run and could also be dangerous (would burn out CAT immediately as well).
Everyone always recommends disconnecting the chargelines but a much better solution exists...
Disconnect the wastegate rod (not the wastegate vacuum or anything like that)...the rod that holds the wastegate flapper shut. Take out the cotter pin and remove the rod. You will not build boost, nor will you OVER REV the turbo with no load.
It's pretty fun too, cuz at like 5000+rpm you will build a tiny amount of boost (especially in higher longer gears)...i'm talking like 2-3psi TOPS in 5th gear, and no more than 1.5-2psi in 4th or below. It's because the tiny wastegate opening can't relieve ALL the pressure in the manifold and causes the turbo to spin at least a little. (Keep in mind i ported my wastegate as i did not want any creep, so you may build a tiny bit more if it's a stock wastegate flapper).
This extra 2psi is probably good for 20-30hp i'd say and it comes right in the top end, so it feels like a completely different engine. Pulls stronger the higher you rev it .
I would not worry 1 bit about Doing any damage with 1-2.5psi.
So go with that if you ask me...i did it for a month and a bit while i was waiting for an Ostrich.
Mark
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mtnickel, that is SUPER conservative timing. .75*/lb is more than enough pulled timing on a basemap.
quickangel, I'm sure that you'll be fine on MRX's basemap.
One of my recent customers is has been running on a basemap for ~700 miles now, on a freshly rebuilt engine.
He didn't want it fully tuned until he broke it in, so I just made him a conservative basemap. ALL his part throttle is tuned to 14.5 afr, boost is 10.8-11.3 and .75*/lb of boost.
If a fresh engine can handle a basemap, I'm sure yours could too.Last edited by d112crzy; 10-24-2007, 02:11 AM.
CrzyTuning now offering port services
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To be the safest (and not knowing exactly how the basemap fits your engine) do as i said and remove that wastegate rod for now.
i've blown 2 engines on basemaps Turbo and power is very addictive and after delayed appointmants at the dyno shop, i eventually tested it a little too far.
And if you haven't already, make sure you have hotter plugs in there (BKR7F's i think, or something close to that)
mark
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ya i would say you should be fine driving on mrxs basemap for 2 weeks just don't race or push it too hard. You should be ok to do a couple of pulls just to have fun but thats it. But MRXs basemaps are good stuff. I would know he formed a couple off my car and his. But get street or dyno or both tuned soon so you can have some fun.~Nick~
FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93
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