There's been allot of posts here that have covered allot that I've missed. Here is my take on everything.
If you are building an engine for turbo then you will obviously need to break it in before boosting. You can get the engine built with some quick set rings that will seat within about 500 miles. You can either, A: run the car with the OEM header till the breakin is done, or B: Run the vehicle with the Turbo on it and etc. but with the waste gate open so the intake see's no boost.
About engine management which seems to be your largest concern you have a few options. All require a Dyno. You have:
- AEM EMS
- Hondata either a s100b (b for boost) or s200b.
The s200b is the closest to the AEM EMS you can get both systems are top notch products. The AEM includes and autotune feature and I believe the Hondata does also. Basically it builds a base tune on what inputs it receives fro mthe sensors. I've seen the AEM work and it makes a decent tune to make the car driveable.
For either system a V-AFC is not needed and not recommended as the stand alone (EMS/Hondata) will have full control over the engines behavior.
You can run your engine with up to 6lbs. of boost on the original engine management however I wouldn't recommend it for a long period of time. But for a short drive to your Dyno no big deal. Unless you have the cash then just tow it.
You could also go with your OEM ECU for example a P28 chipped with a good tune and then use piggy backs like the V-AFC, Greedy Profec Boost controller, etc. That would also work.
I'm currently doing a Turbo on my brother's SOHC Vtec CRX where I'm chipping his P08 (JDM P28) with a program written by RPT to run a D16Z6 (He has a D15B but it's basically the same) at 8lbs. of boost. Then I'm going to use a V-AFC and a Profec as piggy backs and of course configure them on the Dyno.
It would be nice to have either AEM EMS or Hondata but for 8lb.s these will do the job fine and are not as expensive. They are also more understood because they're use is so universal.
If you are building an engine for turbo then you will obviously need to break it in before boosting. You can get the engine built with some quick set rings that will seat within about 500 miles. You can either, A: run the car with the OEM header till the breakin is done, or B: Run the vehicle with the Turbo on it and etc. but with the waste gate open so the intake see's no boost.
About engine management which seems to be your largest concern you have a few options. All require a Dyno. You have:
- AEM EMS
- Hondata either a s100b (b for boost) or s200b.
The s200b is the closest to the AEM EMS you can get both systems are top notch products. The AEM includes and autotune feature and I believe the Hondata does also. Basically it builds a base tune on what inputs it receives fro mthe sensors. I've seen the AEM work and it makes a decent tune to make the car driveable.
For either system a V-AFC is not needed and not recommended as the stand alone (EMS/Hondata) will have full control over the engines behavior.
You can run your engine with up to 6lbs. of boost on the original engine management however I wouldn't recommend it for a long period of time. But for a short drive to your Dyno no big deal. Unless you have the cash then just tow it.
You could also go with your OEM ECU for example a P28 chipped with a good tune and then use piggy backs like the V-AFC, Greedy Profec Boost controller, etc. That would also work.
I'm currently doing a Turbo on my brother's SOHC Vtec CRX where I'm chipping his P08 (JDM P28) with a program written by RPT to run a D16Z6 (He has a D15B but it's basically the same) at 8lbs. of boost. Then I'm going to use a V-AFC and a Profec as piggy backs and of course configure them on the Dyno.
It would be nice to have either AEM EMS or Hondata but for 8lb.s these will do the job fine and are not as expensive. They are also more understood because they're use is so universal.
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