My new Nitrous setup... comments?

[92accordexpower]

Well i got most of the stuff for my 92 accord ex, and i'm ready to put the engine in, probably today. I'm gonna list my setup, let me know what i'm missing, or what i should change.

1992 Accord EX 4dr
Swapped F22a1, with i/e manifolds/downpipe/ecu from f22a6.
ZEX Nitrous #82021 Wet Nitrous System: 55-75hp
I'm looking at running a 75 shot.
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
Billet FPR
ZEX Spark Plugs
NGK 9mm Plug wires
MSD Blaster 2 Coil
Front Energy Poly motor mount insert
Stage 1 Clutch

I think thats about all the stuff I've got. anyone got suggestions as to what else I should get for this.
I haven't gotten a bottle heater, purge kit, or blowdown tube yet, but I figure I can get those things down the road when i have more money.

and off topic, but for the MSD coil, with my stock IGN, do I need the .8 ohm Ballast resistor that the directions tell me to use?

Any comments etc? what am i missing?

thanks

[honda3x23]

need to do:

return the zex spark plugs and get some colder ngk plugs, (f22b1 = bkr7e)


things you need:

bottle pressure gauge, so you can get max bottle potential its very,very,very important

bottle warmer, to get teh bottle up to 950 psi (max hp)

purge is cool, and functional, but not that big of a deal, you dont NEED it like you need these other items


happy shootin'!

[mullet]

^^^ I agree with returning the ZEX plugs, they're turds as far as I'm concerened (and yes, I have used them in my car) Mine are sitting in my attic collecting dust now.

As for what you need, bottle warmer and pressure gauge are a good idea to make sure you get opitmal pressure. IMO a purge is more for higher hp shots and not 100% needed for your kit. And you mentioned a blowdown tube. Depending on where the bottle will be mounted you might not "need" it. NHRA (what most tracks use) rules state that the blowdown is necessary if the bottle will be in the passenger compartment. I've had mine mounted in the trunk for over a year and have passed tech at my local track with no blowdown at least 20 times. If you just want it for piece of mind, go for it.

I also see that you have the 255lph pump, good idea, BUT unless it's different on the Accords than it is on the F22 in my Prelude, your injectors might be a bit weak. The stock 240cc injectors on the stock pump ran super lean on the dyno when I was spraying. Lean enough that the dyno operator shut it down mid pull. Just something to be careful with considering you're running a slightly bigger shot than I was.

Good luck with it and enjoy the juice, I know I did.

[92accordexpower]

thanks for the advice guys

how about the ballast resistor??
do i need that, or is that just for older cars?

and is this MSD Blaster 2 coil a pretty good alternative to the stock external coil

[92_accord_f20a]

remote bottle opener, heard those are good, not needed but handy

[honda3x23]

remote bottle opener, heard those are good, not needed but handy

waste of money, just put the bottle in teh back seat

[uslspct]

thanks for the advice guys

how about the ballast resistor??
do i need that, or is that just for older cars?

and is this MSD Blaster 2 coil a pretty good alternative to the stock external coil

Yeah you need the resistor if you're not using a MSD box. Might want to look into some of their products they can help with Nitrous at the track if you're serious about this. Like rev limiter, timing control.

[92accordexpower]

if i put it in the back seat i need a blowdown tube. i'm better off just putting it in the trunk and not being lazy!

update:
the engine is in, and the gas tank is dropped, i installed the new fuel pump yesterday. i should be reinstalling the tank today and firing it up!

[92accordexpower]

need to do:

return the zex spark plugs and get some colder ngk plugs, (f22b1 = bkr7e)


things you need:

bottle pressure gauge, so you can get max bottle potential its very,very,very important

bottle warmer, to get teh bottle up to 950 psi (max hp)

purge is cool, and functional, but not that big of a deal, you dont NEED it like you need these other items


happy shootin'!

should i get that # plug for the f22a?
are u saying that is a colder equivelent for the f22a engine?

or if i go to napa, and ask for 2 steps colder plug for my car, will they know which one it is?
thanks for the input guys....

i go to work on it again later tonight, get to reroute all those fun rusted gas lines!

[uslspct]

Well stock is ZFR5F-11. So one step colder would be the 6f ones. I don't believe you'll need 2 steps colder. Esp. if you're gonna drive around normally with those plugs. Also research plug gap. Also, I strongly recommend an aftermarket ignition and some sort of timing retard mechanism. Or pull your timing at the track. Also the bottle heater is a very good idea or even necessary, seeing as you live in Syracuse. How often and where are you gonna be spraying? And which brand clutch do you have?

[92accordexpower]

i'm running the MSD blaster 2 coil, NGK 9mm plug wires, and some NGK plugs. Should i get like a 3 or 4 electrode plug, like the ZEX plugs, only NGK?

I got the car running today, new walbro 255 fuel pump installed( don't even bother on your car if it has over 100k on it, at least not in our rust belt)
i broke all 3 of the lines going to the tank, and replaced them with rubber fuel hoses, and just barbed the lines. dealer cost for just one of the 3 lines i broke was $130, thats a 12 inch line or so.
so after the second time i dropped the tank, all the lines are repaired, and the fuel pump is working.

now i've got another problem..
fuel pressure reg has been giving me a few issues. i've gotta be honest i don't know how to tune it, but it didn't come with instructions besides which is input/output.
it's an ebay billet FPR
does turning the adjustment in restrict, or allow more fuel?
and how should i go about tuning the FPR for use with the car.
Fuel pressure is reading like 50-60psi on the gauge, regardless of where i turn the screw, seems pretty high to me.

i went out and drove the car today (first time in a year and a half ), and when i got on it, the fuel cut off around 5500, and there was really no power in higher RPMs, so i brought it back to the garage, turned the FPR in a couple turns, and now the fuel shuts off around like 4k, but it runs good under 4k, good power in midrange 2-3k. so my guess is i'm having a fuel delivery problem, not enough fuel. might be the FPR i dunno. also, i did a timing belt before i put the engine in the car, so there's a possibility that the timing is off, but seems to me, that if it was off by a full tooth it wouldn't run good at all.

i need to get the car running good under normal circumstances, then i'm putting the nitrous in!

thanks for the input guys