Need Help, Cocked Out Wheel!!

[93blackcoupe]

Ok so i lowered my cb, but now, i had camber, so i stick my camber kit on her, and one wheel goes straight, as the passenger goes cocked out to the right... any ideas what i can adjust to get that wheel straight like the other instead of turned to the right? We all know how harsh alignment people will be about aligning lowered vehicles...

[xx93accordxx]

Get an alignment

[93blackcoupe]

yeah but around where i live these shops wont touch it unless its a diesel with a straight pipe but yeah im gonna try that tomorrow i was hoping somebody could tell me what to adjust if i had to do it myself...

[cp[mike]]

what kind of camber kit?

if its an anchor style and the two anchors are adjusted differently i could imagine something like this happening?

that looks like its going to be a bitch to align.

[ChIoVnIdCa]

Huge sig. You can change caster yourself but it will never be correct.

[bobbycos]

Get an alignment

try a different alignment shop

[187 customs]

i work at tires plus and are bosses wont let us touch a lowered car. if you can't find a shop to do it you can get it close with a tape measure and a caster/camber gauge. you can get one at www.daymotorsports.com, or maybe jegs or summit. good look

[Vancefish]

Judging by my last week and really reading into the "other" camber kit, Also having torn my front end down many times.
I'd say the bolt or bolts holding your camber out have either broken or come loose and shifted all the way in.

If it has the pivot point camber kit: Look at the holding nuts on each pivot (bottom). Jack the car up and pull out on the control arm and see if it moves at the pivot point slides. If so, you can semi static align your camber simply pull the arm out until the hub looks a bit in the positive camber then tighten the adjustor nuts to 34 ft lbs making sure both sides (pivots) are adjusted evenly.

If it has the ball joint camber set up: There will be a nut on the top of the upper control arms ball joint. Again jack up the car loosen that nut and slide the camber out. Then tighten the nut. Sorry this isn't what I have so I don't know how tight.

Hope this helps and nice car looks like mine in red

[Vancefish]

I also just realized this could be just your toe in/out.

If so I also have been dealing with this. (Lousy alignment shop here too)

First understand that the drivers side is not straighter then the passenger side. As the car drops lower it changes the geometry of the entire system. When is comes to the Tie rods. Which are located behind the stearing pivot point. as the car gets lower the wheels will pull out in front. As I can see your camber is WAY in. This has the opposite effect also changing the castor. As you adjust the camber to the possitive that Toe in will become toe out.

So get that camber as straght as possible. Then comes the fun part of setting the stearing wheel as straight as you can and adjusting both tie rods out until your toe is correct or as close as you can get it. I balanced a two foot ruler on my wheel studs to allow myself to see the line better.

A friend said to me last week when I had just started dealing with my new set up. He said "toe in/out does not effect camber but Camber does effect toe" He also said toe should be slightly toe in because when you hit a bump. the camber changes slightly out. So keep that in mind as well.

Good luck again.

[1990Ex]

if you ran 205/50/15s someone can do it, but those 195 are fucking huge

[Vancefish]

if you ran 205/50/15s someone can do it, but those 195 are fucking huge

ROFL.

I have the same HUGE tires, but mine are a set of free studded snows a friend gave me off his CB7. Other then having to grind down my control arm edge to allow proper camber and clearances without scrapes and bumping noises. I have no clearance issues. The tires sure do fill those wells though. lol