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Been checking my car regularly after reading this, found some play in the passenger outer tie rod a few days ago, parts already shipped out to replace them and the ball joints except for the front uppers, which are going to be re booted. Thanks for the heads up!
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Tranny?? What inside the tranny can be causing this massive vibration? My car has to be off in aligment and my tires are not that good but it never dud ut until i upgraded the tranny and got the esp mount
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Originally posted by blizzard335 View PostColin, my LBJ snapped off while I was cruising. Funny thing is, I sent the car for a routine service 2 days prior, and did a whole undercarriage check, checked my brakes and such. All was good, no free play and such.
Cruising at around 100-110km/h, and this happened:
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oh god they should be checked every 6 month, well i got the car given to me 6 months ago and when i took off the struts to replace them yesturday, i noticed i was still rolling on stocks for almost 20 year, omg they were so shot it wasnt even funny!
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Originally posted by Bad_dude View PostThanks for the input. That pic below your post, is that part of NZ? It's beautiful.
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Originally posted by evil_demon_01 View PostUltimately a split allows dirt and dust to get in.
Unless you can genuinely prove the grease is "clean" then there is always the possibility of excessive wear on the joint.
A steel ball rubbing on a nylon bush is OK, But add a bit of dirt and dust, and I'm sure you can imagine the effects.
Sure, yours has lasted since you changed the boots with "no issue" but can you honestly tell me there hasn't been more wear than normal?
In NZ we don't sell Boots, You buy the whole joint or nothing.
The chances of them failing are more likely than an unsplit boot, that's really all I can say.
As to how long it will take is anyones guess.
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Originally posted by Bad_dude View PostLess than a year ago, both side of my upper control arms and tie rod ends boots were split. I read many places that if the grease was still clean and the ball joint still look good, that I can just replace the boots. It's almost a year now and changing just the boots, no sign of failure. What are the chances that these components would fail without symptoms now?
It's been driving pretty smooth and no free play when I check yesterday.
Thanks,
Unless you can genuinely prove the grease is "clean" then there is always the possibility of excessive wear on the joint.
A steel ball rubbing on a nylon bush is OK, But add a bit of dirt and dust, and I'm sure you can imagine the effects.
Sure, yours has lasted since you changed the boots with "no issue" but can you honestly tell me there hasn't been more wear than normal?
In NZ we don't sell Boots, You buy the whole joint or nothing.
The chances of them failing are more likely than an unsplit boot, that's really all I can say.
As to how long it will take is anyones guess.
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Less than a year ago, both side of my upper control arms and tie rod ends boots were split. I read many places that if the grease was still clean and the ball joint still look good, that I can just replace the boots. It's almost a year now and changing just the boots, no sign of failure. What are the chances that these components would fail without symptoms now?
It's been driving pretty smooth and no free play when I check yesterday.
Thanks,
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Originally posted by Chirs190E16v View PostFreeplay is different in all cars. Some you can check when the cars on the ground. Some you have to check while it's in the air. Some you have to check while its in the air with something supporting the wheel with a light load.
Btw play on honda's should be checked with the wheels off the ground.
If you get an 08 Honda Legend, and do the test with the wheels in the air with something supporting the wheel with a light load, and check the bottom balljoints, they will have play - But they don't have "Freeplay"
Honda Balljoints have a nylon cup which allows some form of flex under load which is normal.
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Originally posted by Chirs190E16v View PostFreeplay is different in all cars. Some you can check when the cars on the ground. Some you have to check while it's in the air. Some you have to check while its in the air with something supporting the wheel with a light load.
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Freeplay is different in all cars. Some you can check when the cars on the ground. Some you have to check while it's in the air. Some you have to check while its in the air with something supporting the wheel with a light load.
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Originally posted by evil_demon_01 View PostIf I feel more than 1mm at the wheel by hand I fail them.
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Originally posted by blizzard335 View Postis there a definite way of determining this? I mean, by using an apparatus or something
I mean, I did the method you described, and it was tight, according to my foreman. And no 'loose' sounds or klunking.
The definate way to determine this, is that you can usually feel "play"
Otherwise for example: With the outer tierod you can watch it when you wiggle the wheel.
If it has play you will be able to see the tierod stay still, while the steering knuckle moves - Note this gets harder to see if the play is smaller.
Anything above 1.5mm is very obvious, 1mm and below gets harder to pick up on (as to which joint has play)
I.e you may feel play when wiggling the wheel at the top and bottom, but you still need to look at the top and bottom balljoint to see which one has the play.
Same with the steering inner and outer tierods.
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Originally posted by evil_demon_01 View PostIf I feel more than 1mm at the wheel by hand I fail them.
I mean, I did the method you described, and it was tight, according to my foreman. And no 'loose' sounds or klunking.
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