I have a 93 accord 10 year anniversary. I am attempting to replace the warped oem rotors with some EBC slotted and dimpled rotors. I have taken off the 4 bolts connected to the rotor (then the rotor just flops around) then I disconnected it from the stearing knuckle, took off the axle nut and slid it off the axle which then exposed the back. Then I took off the 4 bolts on the back. It still won't seperate the hub. I went to checkers and bought 2 new bearings seeing that banging the hell out of them cause they appear pressed in would damage them. When I bought the front wheel bearings they have the round bearing housed in a square piece of cast metal that has 4 holes for 4 bolt. Which I assume is why you take off those 4 bolts in the back. Am I missing somthing cause checkers sells just wheel bearings and autozone sells wheel bearings/hub assembly. I don't what to do!
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Can't Remove Rotors
Collapse
X
-
Re: Can't Remove Rotors
Originally posted by fino22
I have a 93 accord 10 year anniversary. I am attempting to replace the warped oem rotors with some EBC slotted and dimpled rotors. I have taken off the 4 bolts connected to the rotor (then the rotor just flops around) then I disconnected it from the stearing knuckle, took off the axle nut and slid it off the axle which then exposed the back. Then I took off the 4 bolts on the back. It still won't seperate the hub. I went to checkers and bought 2 new bearings seeing that banging the hell out of them cause they appear pressed in would damage them. When I bought the front wheel bearings they have the round bearing housed in a square piece of cast metal that has 4 holes for 4 bolt. Which I assume is why you take off those 4 bolts in the back. Am I missing somthing cause checkers sells just wheel bearings and autozone sells wheel bearings/hub assembly. I don't what to do!
2) If you ruined your old wheel bearings, just them the parts from checkers...you don't need the hub, just a wheel bearing. You can press in the old hubs into the new wheel bearings.
3) You did everything right in removal, however banging the bearing/hub assembly out will not do it if you live in areas where rust is present. If you live in Florida, Arizona, Texas, etc you can separate the pieces with a pry bar, block of wood & hammer. But if rust is present, don't bother....you'll just get tired. You need to press the shit out with arbor press or hydraulic press or if you can rig it up to a vise and press it out using that. Just make sure you press on the proper area on the wheel bearing not to damage it...just use common sense.
Comment
-
yea like the person said above, you shouldnt have pounded out the rotor/hub/bearing from the knuckle. you could've called an automotive machine shop and have them press out the rotor/hub/bearing from the knuckle by seperating the lower and upper control arm and taking it in. btw. the cost should be less than $40 to press out one side. goodluck, and if u dont want to bother with this BS again, i'd recommend the acura CL kunckle/hub!!!91 4DR Accord LX White Auto
Generic Mugen Lip
Generic Intake
EX 4-2-1 Header
Dynomax Muffler
Skunk2 Coilovers 560lb/in and Koni Yellows
ST Rear Sway Bar
17" Eagle Alloys/Kumho 711's
Comment
-
All you guys need to do is pick up a service manual. Even a Haynes for $15 bucks at your local autoparts describes exactly how to remove the rotor without destroying your wheel bearings.
FYI you don't need to take the spindle to a machine shop to have the bearing/rotor assembly pressed out. It's not pressed in, it just rusts after awhile so it's a real bitch to remove. The knuckle is what's pressed onto the bearing and they can be easily removed from the spindle so you can remove the rotor.
All I can say is get a manual. The slide hammer is the WORST thing you can do.
Comment
-
Busted, you live in FL though. I have worked on my friend's (Aero3685) and his hub assy popped out of the knuckle a pry bar, block of wood & hammer.
I live in Michigan however and rust exists, causing this separation to be such a b**ch. Therefore, pressing it out was basically my only option.
It depends on where you live and how much rust the car has been exposed to. Try by hand first, if it gets you nowhere, then get it pressed out.
I had access to an arbor press at my co-op company and hydraulic press.
Comment
Comment