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I need my car for work just in town,can I bleed the breaks so just my back ones work?

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    I need my car for work just in town,can I bleed the breaks so just my back ones work?

    I only work in town and I need my car for daily commute and its got no front breaks at the moment can I bleed the rear and front in the rite cross pattren and use just my rear drums ? car is 5spd so I can gear it down quite a bit anyway

    #2
    rear drums are going to do nothing to stop u with out your front brakes. most of your braking power comes from the front.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by 93accordexcoupe
      rear drums are going to do nothing to stop u with out your front brakes. most of your braking power comes from the front.
      X2...during even the hardest stopping, your rear brakes will not lock...your front brakes do most of the braking, the rear merely keeps the back in line

      if your front brakes don't work, then your brake system is broken...

      what is specifically wrong with the front brakes?
      DEVOTE


      __________________________________________
      FS: Lokuputha's Stuff
      "It's more fun to drive a slow car fast than it is to drive a fast car slow."-The Smartest Man In The World

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        #4
        my pads wear down to nothing and are metal to metal on the rotors so they fuckt the rotors,so I removed the pads.....and mb even a sticky caliper to I just bought the car so I wasnt the one who neglected the front end but I pretty much knew the front breaks did most of the work.....I have a few older sets of pads around mb I'll throw them back on lol then bleed it out and see how it is...I seen in the manual I can test my calipers by putting 30psi of air pressure into the piston? while putting a block of wood in there so I dont damage the surface

        but ya If ya look at my other post im looking into a rotor over hub conversion as replacing rotors and gettin the bearings and hubs in them seems to be alot of hastle

        I did notice however that when I had the pads on.....the front breaks tended to make and awfull noise when driving like the calipers were stuck open
        thats why I decided to remove them and stop driving it

        Comment


          #5
          yea thats something i wouldnt be driving until i fixed it

          Comment


            #6
            hail a cab, do NOT attempt to drive it without front brakes.


            - 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
            - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
            - 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
            - 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
            - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
            - 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
            - 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
            - 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
            Current cars:
            - 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
            - 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion

            Comment


              #7
              I mite just throw a set of old pads on again lol,thanks for the input

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by CB7EX-R
                I mite just throw a set of old pads on again lol,thanks for the input
                y not some new pads...they aren't that expensive...
                DEVOTE


                __________________________________________
                FS: Lokuputha's Stuff
                "It's more fun to drive a slow car fast than it is to drive a fast car slow."-The Smartest Man In The World

                Comment


                  #9
                  you really shouldnt be working on cars, let alone the brake system if you have to ask a question like this. No offense, but just for your own safety.


                  "You've done more threatening prescription drugs..."
                  "the character of a man can be judged by how he takes his criticism"
                  "Quoting yourself is like, masturbation" -Starchland

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I just explained that the rotors are what causes the pads to wear so rapidly bc there fuckt.....also ill have you know im a certified autobody and colision repair speciailist as well as a certified mechanic. I dont know why I even bother asking some questions on here this being one of them. I just wonderd how strong of an influence are rear drums have and I now know that they really suck as much as I had thought. Ive aslo owned 10 accords so this is just somthing I never really delt with. The car I bought bc the body is very solid and for 400 bucks a 92 EX white in color with orogional 1/4s in nova scotia and only 200xxx how can I go wrong. And honesltly with an almost totally redone front suspension and brake system as well as new rear suspension bushings it will be a good grocery getter for the wife. I currently own 5 cb7s and the donar car I use for them all just had the whole front suspension taken out by me and I plan to sand blast and reuse what I can and install new upper controal arms and bushings as well as the upper ball joint and lower ball joint new hubs and bearings and the rotors to go with along with new pads and a good set of calipers ,sway bar bushings are still fine somhow(must have been replaced) and if the funds are there a few other things. Its got bran new axels in it,I have a new oil pan for it and a header and downpipe/flex pipe on the way....as the flex pipe was pretty well shot so for 150 shipped id prefer the header and downpipe as apose to even a cheap local autoparts downpipe for 250 bucks....Id be scared to as for a price on a downpipe for just an A1 at honda or even the A4 er 6 for that matter. I have all the exhaust manifolds but Id rather just buy the header. I was looking at the power coated ones but I fiuger if I want it powder coated to I best just buy the stainless header then do the work myself as I havent heard any feedback on here about the cheap ebay headers that are powdercoated. Anyway I have the rest of the exhaust(factory pipe) to add onto that after the cat and a stock 5th gen EX-R muffler. Other then that the car doesnt throw codes or leak oil,internal nor external. If I had the time in a day Id have posted up some pics of my cb7s I had over the years.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      my current problem with the breaks is just a matter of the moron previous owner not maintaing the car as to leave rotors get that bad that you cant keep pads on it. My mothers 03 malibou cant keep pads on it its prob the most complained about aspect of those cars. The rotors need to be changed every 10xxxmiles and same goes for the pads.....this is not the case with hers but Ive heard this from some of the more regular cases.....I drove are CB7s without anything besides an Ebrake b4 worked just fine if your Ebrakes tight and you can just put it in N, but Im just leaving the car as is untill I put the new front end in it....

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