h22 problems?

[blamethepunx]

the blue top h23VTEC came in the 6th gen accord Euro-R, good luck finding one, and if you do, you better have cash flowing out your pockets.

people say h23 head for turbo because it is a LITTLE stronger, but mostly due to the lack of VTEC. VTEC screws with turbo fuel mapping hardcore, you definitely DONT want to be runnign lean ona turbo VTEC application or BOOM big time. as for putting an H23 head on an H22 block, there's no real point to this since you are only decreasing the displacement of an h23. the h22 gets it power form its compression and its VTEC. both of which you would be getting rid of for an H23-head turbo application. if you are considering this swap for turbo purposes only, just swap an h23 in (make sure it's obdI, or you'll never get the mapping right) if your feeling really creative and have tons of cash and even more time for constant tuning, stick an H22 head on a turbo H23 block to get the most power

[blamethepunx]

BTW, after swapping i had a minor EGR wiring problem and a misfiring cylinder which i fied up right away, but ive been losing compression in cyl.1 since i got the beast. just bad luck, but im gonna rip her apart and redo a lot of that fun stuff in there, so she'll be rippin it up by summer.

even with the problems and expenses that come with making a frankenstein of a car, i wouldnt go back to an f-series if my life depended on it.
unless i won an s2000 :P

[92accordlxtuner]

heres one (blue top vtec!)

and it doesn't cost more than a h22.

thanks for flaming me guys!

bluetop VTEC H23a

edit:heres the link where i found the H23 VTECs from JDM preludes

and it appears that the blue top is actually an F20b from JDM 97-01 Accord Euro-R

but VTEC h23s do exist!

[H22ACB7]

Thats crazy, I thought the only blue top motor was the F20B. However, im pretty sure that site that lists it as a JDM 92-96 Prelude motor is wrong. That motor (H23A) is OBD2 only. Correct me if im wrong.

Guess you really do learn something new everyday.
Sorry bout the off topic, just wanted some clarification.

edit

" and it appears that the blue top is actually an F20b from JDM 97-01 Accord Euro-R "

"the blue top h23VTEC came in the 6th gen accord Euro-R"

HA! I knew it.

[92accordlxtuner]

maybe, but they do sell it the h23 with a Vtec soleniod...so im guessing its correct...

[blamethepunx]

blue top h23VTEC = Accord Euro-R - super duper rare

blue top F20 = Accord SiR-T - not so rare, much cheaper

[92accordlxtuner]

blue top h23VTEC = Accord Euro-R - super duper rare

blue top F20 = Accord SiR-T - not so rare, much cheaper

then i guess someone on cb7tuner should snatch up the one on ebay ASAP- its only 2900...makes me think about gettin it

(check one of my previous post for link! )

edit: does anyone on cb7tuner have an f20b? why isnt that swap as common (damn we are getting off topic ) ??

[blamethepunx]

that swap isnt as common cuz its more expensie and harder to find, also because its smaller it has les torque that a cheaper swap, and you cant take it as far horespower wise unless you really put a lot of time and money into it.

i'd be very wary of that engine going for so cheap, my immediate thoughts are that its beat to hell and might not even run, or that it might just be a regular h22 with a blue valvecover tossed on.

[deevergote]

The H23 VTEC listed there has got to be a typo. There's no way you can get a full H23 VTEC swap for $2500. Like blamethepunx said, they are uber rare. Expect to pay about twice that.

The 92-96 Prelude that came with the H23 was the US model (I don't believe they even had the h23 in japan). It had 160hp and was non-vtec. The compression and cylinder walls (i believe, I don't think the H23 has FRM sleeves... I could be wrong) are better for boost.

I don't know of anyone on here with an F20B, though I know someone who is getting one They are also crazy expensive. The F20B was designed as a race engine (it's quite similar to an H22, only destroked to 2.0L for race regulations). It's a nice engine, but I think I would go for a normal H22 with the extra money spent on mods. With the $2000 or so saved by buying the cheaper H22, you can build it up to make more power than the F20B.

[ukaccord92]

my swap went fine but .. ive notice when start up the engine doesnt start up as smooth as but i guess i can live with it. the other thing ive notice is since i put the headder on the engine sound shelly im guessing here ..probly the type of oil which im running (synthetic oil)/the tappets need adjustin and the engine sounds has a slight mis when accelerating like a fuel starve again like i say maybe because i havent had the black box connected under the intake manifold the iac box somthing like that . theres a light always showin brake lamp and all my bulbs are in tack and brake fuel redone , my abs lights start showin could be faukty sensors or the pump is chewed.. but i'll just take it to a tuner to check all that jumble out ...peace

[J-specCb4]

with enough power non v-tec is the way to go considering you have all of your power at all times not just at high rpm

[J-specCb4]

F*ck all that i say we all slap a k20 in our cb's and rule the earth......j/k

[92accordlxtuner]

F*ck all that i say we all slap a k20 in our cb's and rule the earth......j/k

i heard you can do it, but you cant just slap it in

after doin some research, looks like getting an h23 and swapping for an h22 head is the way to go for non-turbo, and just plain ol h23 for boost!

im still trying to get an answer of why not just boosting a plain h22a...people give me mixed responses :shrugs:

[deevergote]

Did you search the Forced Induction and Swaps forums? I answer that question at least once every 2 weeks myself...

Well, the H23/H22 Frankenstein motor has been known to have reliability issues. I'm still trying to see if the F22A crank and rods would work with the H22 pistons... Giving the same 2.3L engine. Either way, the straight H22 is best for reliability.

If you want to boost an h22, you need to do LOTS of work. The FRM sleeves don't allow for aftermarket forged pistons, which means the 10:6:1 (JDM) compression ratio pretty much stays the same. A head gasket won't drop it enough... Boosting an engine with stock internals and that high of a compression will put a piston through your oilpan... In order to use forged low-compression pistons, you'd need to have the block sleeved... Plan on at least $1000 for sleeving. The sleeves alone are $600+ (and the cheapies are not the way to go...). Pistons and rods are another $1000 after labor, if you're lucky. There's the cost of your H22 all over again... and you haven't even started on the turbo parts or the engine management electronics... or the ignition system.

Plan on $10,000 to properly boost an h22. If you cheap out on anything, you'd need to keep your fingers crossed. When someone tells you "you can boost up to 8psi on stock internals" don't listen. Yes, it's true... however, one bit of boost creep and that engine is toast. Plus, 8psi (I would NEVER go above 6 on stock, probably not above 5) would only put you at about 280hp... Not really worth the cost and the risk! Get your engine capable of at least 15psi or it's a waste of time and money, IMO!

If you want a cheaper boost project, send $1200 to Accord R33 for his kit. Boost the F22. IF you blow that, at least it's cheaper to replace. And it doesn't have the FRM sleeves, so you wouldn't NEED to sleeve till you hit higher boost levels (eventually EVERY Honda block should be sleeved to withstand higher boost).

[92accordlxtuner]

wow....informative stuff...thanks!

sorry, havent done a thorough search on this forum yet. too busy at times.