f22a6 swap question

[Whit3y]

ok guys i been a long 6 months here ... but its fianlly done quick question as u see i did the f22a6 swap in my 92 accord but i am using my stock ecu ... i by passed the double flutter thingy and keep it open i guess u could say so instead of waiting for a certin rpm its just says GO !! ... should i find a 93 ecu in the junk yard and swap it out .. ?

[Jarrett]

Yes. But you will also need to add a wire to your existing harness that goes to pin A17 on your ECU that give the signal to the black box under the intake manifold. Assuming you've put that on.

But this has been covered countless times. There is no reason that you should not have searched and gotten this answer for yourself. You're in the big boy section now.

[noahrexion]

Could do that if you have the black box to wire/hook up correctly.

Otherwise just run it off of vacuum only and keep the stock ECU.

[Jarrett]

Could do that if you have the black box to wire/hook up correctly.

Otherwise just run it off of vacuum only and keep the stock ECU.

You obviously don't know or care for the other variables involved. If the original poster wants an engine to commute in and cares nothing for horsepower then fine. But you don't have a tune designed for that cam and having the IABs hooked up to vacuum will cause them to come on anywhere from 1500-200rpm too early depending on the strength of the spring in the diaphragm.

[mtnbikaah]

By "by passing" the "double flutter thingy" you have decreased flow into your engine therefore lowering your low end power..... There is a reason Honda put the "double flutter thingy" in there.

So, you still are waiting for GO. Just longer.

[Whit3y]

when i got the motor the black box was broken off and i was reading "not on here" that u can just by pass it since i have the lx model ... plus there was no other senser on this intake mainfold for me to even try hook it up ...

sorry for my english

[noahrexion]

You obviously don't know or care for the other variables involved. If the original poster wants an engine to commute in and cares nothing for horsepower then fine. But you don't have a tune designed for that cam and having the IABs hooked up to vacuum will cause them to come on anywhere from 1500-200rpm too early depending on the strength of the spring in the diaphragm.

Wow I am am sure glad that members like you were able to deduce all of the variables involved; and on top of that, really "care" about them.

What I took from the post was that this fella has been running his A6 in his LX with an LX ECU. No problems. How he is running it now, assuming they are disconnected - is in fact, "GO" all the time. A disconnected IAB leaves the secondaries open 100% of the time. There is also nothing wrong with that. I figured that since he swapped it without the ECU or box in the first place that he wanted a running motor, and was asking a question about getting his IAB functional.

As I said in my post, you would need a functioning black box to wire it up correctly. It would sure be a bigger issue if he was running an entirely different motor off of his ECU; but running an A6 off of an A1 is no problem - aside from the 5HP loss yo!
Do you really think the OP is tuning this motor? Do you think he is after every single horsepower he can get? If so then you are able to decipher much more from his, almost, illegible post that I. Good for you!

Mr. Whit3y: certainly it would be ideal to get an ECU from an A6 Accord - it does have bit more aggressive mid/upper power band tune.

[Jarrett]

I suggest it not only for it having been tuned for a better cam profile, but also the electronic control of the IABs. If you want the engine to "properly" run then hooking the diaphragm up directly to vacuum is not an option. It's not a matter of power coming on earlier. It's a matter of losing velocity altogether and seeing the repercussions of that almost the entire way through the torque curve and power band. So many people on here see it as an easy alternative because A) others suggest it without knowing/informing the ill effects as well or B) they're lazy as hell and don't feel like running 1 wire. It shouldn't be an alternative.

But as we both seem to agree, none of this matters if the OP doesn't care about performance. I only assumed he did by reason of him doing the swap in the first place.

[Whit3y]

Noahrexion ---- thank you very much ...

im sorry for the others from what has been said .. i had my car blow up on me 6 months ago and i found this motor from a dude from facebook and the black box was broken so he said there was no harm to run it with open butterflys .. so meh but i just want the car to run right atm so i can get my ass back and forth to work :P

but i do thank every1 for there help .. i guess im going to the junkyard tom morning ... thanks again

[noahrexion]

I was under the car today playing with the PS line so I snapped a pic of the IAB box hookup. It is the same as a H23, H22 and/or an F22A6



It is the pink wire in the pic running to the solenoid. The left vacuum line (top of solenoid) goes to the vacuum diaphram on the butterfly's themselves, this is what will reduce the vaccum to them and open them up.

The bottom vacuum line from the solenoid is the one that goes to the black box (which can be from an H23/H22/F22A6) on the left side of it. The other side of the blackbox, which has the check valve in the vacuum line, is the one that goes above the IAB plate on the intake manifold.