Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Think You Know Your Sh!t? Help Me!

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Think You Know Your Sh!t? Help Me!

    1993 Accord EX
    1994 H22A (w/AT)

    1994 JDM TCU

    I can't get the 'key interlock solenoid' to release when I press the brake pedal. If I put the car in neutral before starting the trans shifts o.k. but the 'D4' light is not on (it does come on for 2 seconds after starting the car).

    Can anyone here help me? I've tried reviewing the wiring schematics.. but I can't find anything that I'm missing.

    First person to give the correct answer gets a gift from Hawaii!

    #2
    everything works fine with the accord TCU... soo.. it has to be wiring related.

    Comment


      #3
      Easy fix, though it removes some security... Bypass it.... Just remove the solenoid.
      Visit us at http://www.valleyspecialists.com for all of your Honda and Acura service needs!

      Comment


        #4
        That's my last resort... kind of want everything to work properly..

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by coupe_boy
          That's my last resort... kind of want everything to work properly..
          Did you check the actuator on the brake, to make sure it's working properly? Hit it with a test light, ground it, and push the pedal. If the light comes on, I'm outta ideas.

          (That was the third idea I had, but HS shut down, so I couldn't post)

          Brad aka Surfjunkie44
          Your sponsor sucks! Member #001

          Comment


            #6
            yeah... this has me positively stumped... I can't find anything that would be causing this.... I'm getting ready to just pull out the solenoid...it's been over a week since I finished the swap and the kid wants his car back...

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by coupe_boy
              yeah... this has me positively stumped... I can't find anything that would be causing this.... I'm getting ready to just pull out the solenoid...it's been over a week since I finished the swap and the kid wants his car back...
              Yank it... I wish my solution was as easy as that... I haven't posted it, but I have ripped & re-installed the entire brake system 3 times since I finished the swap last week... My front right caliper keeps ceasing... I didn't even mess with the brakes on this swap. I have no clue, and even with 6 people helping, we are out of ideas.

              Brad
              Your sponsor sucks! Member #001

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by coupe_boy
                yeah... this has me positively stumped... I can't find anything that would be causing this.... I'm getting ready to just pull out the solenoid...it's been over a week since I finished the swap and the kid wants his car back...
                Maybe the TCU is defective, why not just use the Accord TCU? The transmissions are virtually identical anyway.
                Originally posted by Surfjunkie44
                My front right caliper keeps ceasing... I didn't even mess with the brakes on this swap. I have no clue, and even with 6 people helping, we are out of ideas.

                Brad
                Maybe your calipers cylinder bore is scared and the piston is hanging. Have you tried replacing the caliper? Also make sure the guide pins are lubricated with graphite grease, It's a floating caliper design so it must be able to move freely or else it will hang.
                My unupdate website Speedworx-online.com, lol. <click here>.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by BustedLX
                  Maybe your calipers cylinder bore is scared and the piston is hanging. Have you tried replacing the caliper? Also make sure the guide pins are lubricated with graphite grease, It's a floating caliper design so it must be able to move freely or else it will hang.
                  Replaced the the passenger front already, and I'm getting ready to replace the driver front, just because it's the only other one ceasing... It's only the fronts that are ceasing is what's weird. The rears look fine except for the fact they could use some new pads... This braking issue wasn't an issue before I started the swap is what bugs me. I did get the MC and proportioning valve from the junkyard. I dunno, like I said, we've taken this system apart and put it back together more times than I can count, I just want it to work.

                  Brad

                  PS- I edited this thing 50 times because I couldn't seem to type in English this morning...
                  Last edited by Surfjunkie44; 12-14-2003, 03:57 PM.
                  Your sponsor sucks! Member #001

                  Comment


                    #10
                    it was a wiring issue.

                    I need to run an additional wire from the shift position switch to the a7 pin on the tcu.

                    Worked like a champ!!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by coupe_boy
                      it was a wiring issue.

                      I need to run an additional wire from the shift position switch to the a7 pin on the tcu.

                      Worked like a champ!!
                      Explain... so this is understood and can be passed on...

                      Brad
                      Your sponsor sucks! Member #001

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Surfjunkie44
                        Replaced the the passenger front already, and I'm getting ready to replace the driver front, just because it's the only other one ceasing... It's only the fronts that are ceasing is what's weird. The rears look fine except for the fact they could use some new pads... This braking issue wasn't an issue before I started the swap is what bugs me. I did get the MC and proportioning valve from the junkyard. I dunno, like I said, we've taken this system apart and put it back together more times than I can count, I just want it to work.

                        Brad

                        PS- I edited this thing 50 times because I couldn't seem to type in English this morning...
                        What you need to remember is you completely opened your brake system so moisture was allowed to get in there. The insides of your brake system corude very rapidly esspeically when exposed to humidity. The cylinder walls just built rust up so the pistons would hang. It's normal and even more explainable in your situation.

                        Originally posted by coupe_boy
                        it was a wiring issue.

                        I need to run an additional wire from the shift position switch to the a7 pin on the tcu.

                        Worked like a champ!!
                        I wasn't aware that the Prelude needed more wiring. Good job, please post your source or a better description.
                        My unupdate website Speedworx-online.com, lol. <click here>.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          O.k.

                          If you trace the TCM wiring diagram for the 92-96 prelude, you find that all wires are present on the accord harness EXCEPT for one. This is located at A7 ('A' plug is the larger of the two TCM plugs).

                          This missing wire is GRN/WHT. Although there is another GRN/WHT on the existing harness, it is not the same as the one needed for A7.

                          Get some spare wire. Take off your center console. On the left side of the shifter there is a box with about 5/6 wires going into it. This is the shifter position switch. You need to tap into the GRN/WHT wire and run it back to the TCM. (Get a pin from honda for TCM plug). Run that sucker in and everything will be stock! (Except you shift at 7K-ish).

                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X