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    Rocket Scientists & Brake Specialists...

    You'll need some background. I have a 93 Accord EX coupe w/ ABS (stock) and I swapped a 94 H22A w/ LSD into her (you really didn't need to know the second part, but I just love saying it!). I swapped from an A/T to an M/T as well when I did this swap along with yanking the entire A/C system (Yeah, my car is a skeleton). I had the swap completed, and running with no problems Tuesday, of a week and a half ago.

    Two or three days later, the front passenger caliper starting ceasing, and we have repeatedly bled the brakes to correct the issue with no permanent resolution. If I let it sit a few hours, it corrects itself, only to happen again with less than 5 minutes driving time.

    I used the stock A/T brake booster, a junkyard M/T master cylinder, a junkyard M/T non-ABS proportioning valve, and a junkyard non ABS front passenger brake line. I replaced the pads on the the front of the car, and replaced the front passenger caliper that had been ceasing. When I dropped the motor, I kept the Prelude intermediate shaft and swapped the Prelude CV ends over to the Accord axle on the driver's side; the Prelude CV ends were non-ABS, hence, no exciter ring. I used the Accord A/T axle on the passenger side, and didn't bother to knock off the exciter ring. I have made no adjustments to the rear brakes whatsoever. The entire ABS electrical wiring system has been removed except for the two orange plug electical connectors that come from the rear brakes into the trunk; I just never bothered to take them off.

    The one thing that I have noticed is that within 5 minutes driving time is when the caliper starts to cease, leading me to think it's a heat issue. One other thing I forgot to mention is that the brake pedal seems exceptionally stiff, with a very short range, no matter how I adjust it. I am at my wits end on this, not understanding why a singe caliper is freezing up. I'm out of money, so I need a solution, not a list of parts unless they are guaranteed to make it work. Awaiting answers for my 14.414 @ 95.06 Accord... I got to run her Friday at the track, and didn't seem to have brake issues on the way there, or on the way back... One of the good days.

    PS-I'm posting this in every site I can think of hoping to get an answer, so if you see it again, you'll know why in advance.

    Brad aka Surfjunkie44
    Your sponsor sucks! Member #001

    #2
    Replace the caliper that is ceasing. It most likely has rust or pitting on the cylinder wall and piston is hanging. It's probably just a coinsedence that it hangs after 5 minutes of driving, It's most likely to be because it's only after the piston travels past a certain point in the cylinder.

    The system never had these problems before because it was always closed but when you opened it (and probably left it open for a few days) you introduced moisture and bare metal with brake fluid on it rusts extremely fast when exposed to humidity.

    Try replacing that caliper, It's most likely your problem. Either that or rebuild it.
    My unupdate website Speedworx-online.com, lol. <click here>.

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      #3
      Re: Rocket Scientists &amp; Brake Specialists...

      Originally posted by Surfjunkie44
      ...and replaced the front passenger caliper that had been ceasing
      Way ahead of you man, that's why this is bugging me.

      Brad
      Your sponsor sucks! Member #001

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        #4
        Re: Re: Rocket Scientists &amp; Brake Specialists...

        Originally posted by Surfjunkie44
        Way ahead of you man, that's why this is bugging me.

        Brad
        So you are saying you've replaced it with a rebuilt caliper and it continues to hang?
        My unupdate website Speedworx-online.com, lol. <click here>.

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          #5
          Yes sir! It's a brain fryer man, I've been stumped for days now...

          Brad
          Your sponsor sucks! Member #001

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            #6
            How are the caliper pins? Do they slide freely? Maybe you got a bad caliper? It does happen, have it exchanged.
            My unupdate website Speedworx-online.com, lol. <click here>.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by BustedLX
              How are the caliper pins? Do they slide freely? Maybe you got a bad caliper? It does happen, have it exchanged.
              Nah, the pins are fine, plenty of grease and everything. I posted this on www.hybridgarage.com and a guy said it was rod length going to the brake pedal. He had had the same issue... The rod legth from the booster was too short, and made the brakes contiually rub, within 5 minutes or less causing the fluid to boil and the brakes to cease. I'm going to try adjusting it today. Hopefully that solves it, this is the last week the track is open, and I want to get some good runs in.

              Brad
              Your sponsor sucks! Member #001

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                #8
                Originally posted by Surfjunkie44
                Nah, the pins are fine, plenty of grease and everything. I posted this on www.hybridgarage.com and a guy said it was rod length going to the brake pedal. He had had the same issue... The rod legth from the booster was too short, and made the brakes contiually rub, within 5 minutes or less causing the fluid to boil and the brakes to cease. I'm going to try adjusting it today. Hopefully that solves it, this is the last week the track is open, and I want to get some good runs in.

                Brad
                That could be it. I've never seen that though but it makes sense if the rod lengths in the booster are different.
                My unupdate website Speedworx-online.com, lol. <click here>.

                Comment


                  #9
                  ur 93 EX w/ABS & 4 wheel disc brakes is like my 91 SE setup. So stock you would have had a larger brake booster & master cylinder than our basic 4th gen Accords. You mentioned you bought a junkyard master cylinder and brake booster....what type though? Did you downgrade? Why would you have a booster issue if stock, you had the right setup to begin with?
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                    #10
                    D@mmit man, you suck! You know why, because you're right! Ok, so solution time... Can I use my original master cylinder on the original brake booster? Or do I need to get the booster from a 91 Accord DX? Or, do I simply adjust the push rod in the MC?

                    Just out of curiousity, how do I tell the difference between all the MC's? Look the same to me...

                    Brad
                    Your sponsor sucks! Member #001

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Surfjunkie44
                      D@mmit man, you suck! You know why, because you're right! Ok, so solution time... Can I use my original master cylinder on the original brake booster? Or do I need to get the booster from a 91 Accord DX? Or, do I simply adjust the push rod in the MC?

                      Just out of curiousity, how do I tell the difference between all the MC's? Look the same to me...

                      Brad
                      Normally the boosters have a sticker on top with their model number.

                      I would use the master cylinder that goes to the brake booster and try again.

                      You can't adjust the rod lenth in the booster, It's just a plastic rod installed at the factory.
                      My unupdate website Speedworx-online.com, lol. <click here>.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Surfjunkie44
                        D@mmit man, you suck! You know why, because you're right! Ok, so solution time... Can I use my original master cylinder on the original brake booster? Or do I need to get the booster from a 91 Accord DX? Or, do I simply adjust the push rod in the MC?

                        Just out of curiousity, how do I tell the difference between all the MC's? Look the same to me...

                        Brad
                        First tell me what car is the master cylinder & brake booster you have not installed from (since you went junkyard shopping for what apparently were the wrong parts)?

                        I'm still confused on what setup ur running right now...you haven't clarified that yet.
                        HondaFan81 For Sale Parts (LOW PRICES ON EVERYTHING)

                        Comment


                          #13
                          91 or 92 non-ABS M/T master cylinder, original brake booster (A/T w/ABS)... I went to the junkyard today, took a look around, noticed the size diff in the brake boosters... Recommendations?

                          Brad
                          Your sponsor sucks! Member #001

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by BustedLX
                            You can't adjust the rod lenth in the booster, It's just a plastic rod installed at the factory.
                            I can't use the MC that came with the brake booster, it got thrown away... It is however adjustable on both ends. There is a threaded bolt on the end extending from the booster to the MC. You can also adjust the rod length specifically to the pedal by unbolting it from the back of the booster, or spinning the retainer for the cotter pin.

                            "Haynes 13.13A: The booster pushrod-to-MC clearance must be as specified- if there is interference between the two, the brakes may drag..."

                            There may still be water in the system, but I wouldn't think so. I believe it is simply the brags dragging causing the fluid to boil. Apparently it's not that hard to accomplish. The only other solutions are replacing the MC because one of its valves is not returning to it's proper position, replacing the proportional valve because it's non-servicable, or adjust the brake pedal switch. The booster is acting in accordance w/ normal operation. I simply slapped a new MC from the junyard on, w/o adjusting it. Stupid mistake turned into a royal mess. The booster size has no effect on the actual braking system, it simply effects pedal pressure and return.

                            Brad
                            Last edited by Surfjunkie44; 12-17-2003, 08:04 AM.
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                              #15
                              Originally posted by Surfjunkie44
                              The booster size has no effect on the actual braking system, it simply effects pedal pressure and return.

                              Brad
                              Exactly but if the rod is to long the pedal will return and still be lightly appling the brakes, so they could hang.

                              I experianced a similar problem when installing a new HydroBooster on a Chevy 3500 Heavy Duty Double tire truck.

                              I had to replace the Hydro Booster because it went bad, Well I called the dealer gave them the trucks info and they shipped over the new booster. Put it on, bled it, Started driving around and the brakes began to hang after a few minutes. I couldn't figure it out till I pulled the new booster back out and compared it to the old one. The New one's rod was a half in longer.

                              Turns out the one they sent me was for a Truck with ABS and rear disc brakes where the truck I had was a W/T and had rear drums and no ABS.

                              They sent the Correct Booster and it worked out great.

                              I had not considered it in your situation but it is something to look at.

                              Why in the world would you brakes have water in them?!
                              My unupdate website Speedworx-online.com, lol. <click here>.

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