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F22A6 Being a B!tch :'(

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    F22A6 Being a B!tch :'(

    Hey guys, well i finally got the F22a6 into the 2 door 1990 LX and I am having a bugger of a time getting it to run well. The only way it starts is if I hold the gas to the floor. onces its started it will idle fine but if I step on the gas too quick it will die. It takes a long time to get it started too by the way. However if I get it out on the road, as long as I keep it above 2k RPM it goes like shit and runs great. I can't figure it out at all. Anyone got any ideas?
    Other things to note:
    -my mechanic said he had to change ALOT of my F22A1 stuff over to the A6 so it might be running off the old fuel rail and injectors. And I kno its running the A1 dizzy which was almost brand new. (He also mentioned having to swap the entire wiring harness.
    -I AM running off of the F22A1 ECU and I have just blocked the Two vaccum lines on the back of the throttle Body the drivers side, as well as the Dual Plenum runner vaccum line.
    -ECU is NOT throwing any codes. (unless i have to jump a service jumper that I can't locate right now Im just going by the little red light on the ECU itself.)
    -The last owner of the car had an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator that I transferred onto the A6. I'm going to try swapping the stock one back on tomorrow.
    -When i try to start the car it backfires alot but doesn't at all once its running. not as much now that we got the condensation out of the dizzy cap, but still too much for my likeing.

    I'd love to hear any ideas, I'm not a super mechanic but I am super stumped.
    Thanks alot guys!

    #2
    I would:

    A. take off that FPR unless you have a gauge to determine the fuel pressure

    B. double and triple check the vacuum lines on the mani, sounds like you might have either mixed some up or left some disconnected entirely or something of that nature.

    C. read up on TPS's... and if you don't feel comfortable checking and adjusting the voltage on it then go to your mach and have him do it...

    those are my guesses...


    As for the fuel rail and injectors... they are the same on both the A6 and A1 and A4 so that doesn't matter...

    Another guess, something you might look at if theose other solutions don't help any... timing... first ignition... which could be adding to the problem... and then possibly cam timing... was the timing belt replaced? It copuld be off a tooth or 2... I know that even a 1-2 degree change on a mostly stock or bolt on motor can create havok and some of the same problems you are having now... or at the very least contribute to the snowball effect...
    Last edited by Superfly; 09-30-2005, 12:02 PM.
    SM4 CB3 ACCORD 2.0Si______________________________________________

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      #3
      It sounds to me as if you aren't yet done with your swap --- you said you blocked some vacuum ports. Unblock them and route them where they need to go so that your F22a6 is plumbed like a F22a6 should be.

      Like Superfly said, a tooth off on the belt might also cause the backfiring, or it might just be a red herring. Are you reasonably sure the timing belt is OK and/or was last installed properly?
      >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>><<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

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        #4
        do accord ECUs even have lights on them?

        your mechanic shouldnt have had to switch much of anything over. from the a1 to the a6. assuming you had a complete a6 motor

        Owner of https://theclunkerjunker.com

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          #5
          Originally posted by Accord R33
          do accord ECUs even have lights on them?

          your mechanic shouldnt have had to switch much of anything over. from the a1 to the a6. assuming you had a complete a6 motor
          The 90-91's do have a light on the ECU...

          That is very true though... not much should have had to been done to get the A6 to work, The only thing I can think of is maybe the IAT sensor wiring would have to be extended or loosened from the tape on the harness, a vac line or 2 might get routed differently and you'd have to run the wires to the IAB solenoid... and that's it...
          SM4 CB3 ACCORD 2.0Si______________________________________________

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            #6
            Originally posted by Superfly
            The 90-91's do have a light on the ECU...

            That is very true though... not much should have had to been done to get the A6 to work, The only thing I can think of is maybe the IAT sensor wiring would have to be extended or loosened from the tape on the harness, a vac line or 2 might get routed differently and you'd have to run the wires to the IAB solenoid... and that's it...
            i really didnt know that. now that i think about it iv never done anything with a 90-91 ECU. only 92-93

            Owner of https://theclunkerjunker.com

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              #7
              Thanks Guys, I'll get my mechanic to check the timing once I figure out where the diagnostic jumper is. I'm used to my old G2 integra and how it was in the passenger kick panel. Would I be better off buying an ECU for the A6 and getting the solenoid for the butterflys? They are a little harder to find up here in canada.
              My mechanic said he timed the car by ear as best he could till we find out where the jumper is to do it properly. So that could be one of the problems.
              there are two small vaccum lines coming off the back of the intake manifold on the drivers side of the car (on the side closest to the firewall), those are the only two i believe that are just blocked off. We have no clue as to where these run to. Everything else my mechanic figured he got all right. The timing belt was new on the engine when we got it so we didnt touch it. I'll post more tomorrow after work when i can go see the car.

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