H23 head on H22 block

[shawn.hayden]

I know, its probably not the best combo power wise, but a buddy of mine has come across a car that needs a block, and he's got an H22 block, so he was wondering what all would be involved in putting the 23 head on the 22 block...

WiKKed this is where you come in

thanks in advance

[shawn.hayden]

bumpzor

[H23Accord]

Does he already have the H23 head for this H22 flip flop or is he just considering going with the H23 head over the H22 head?

[jonyb]

Forgot I had an account here

The car is mine. It's a 93 Prelude with H23a1. I bought it running, but with a BAD knock... Got it home and dropped the oil pan and there were shavings inside.

Background: The motor was rebuilt locally 30,000 miles ago. To my understanding, the mechanic only used "some" bearings, new rings, and for some reason had the head p/p (could be wrong on that). The guy I bought the car from doesn't even own a screwdriver, so I'm not sure how much of that story is right. Not that he'd lie, he just doesn't know.

I've been looking for an H23 block, or longblock to replace this one. I've come across a guy in Nashville (2 hours away) that has an H22 block that I can get by trading some stuff with. Stuff that I just need out of my garage and no use for. I'd use the existing H23 head, just swap out the block and while the motor's out, put in a new clutch.

I don't want to do any thing half-fast. The car will be for sale after it's fixed, and I want to make sure the new owner won't have any problems with it.

Thanks to anyone who offers suggestions or help. Also, if you have a block I could use, hit me up...

[ZigenBallZ]

I liek the sound of that... a destroked H23A1 basically...

Sounds revvy...

[phatdoughnut]

if you are gona resale it, i wouldnt bother with a hydrid, because they wont know how to fix it if anything goes wrong. You are just gona confuse them.

[jonyb]

The only reason to use an H22 block/H23 head is because I can't find an H23 block that isn't destroyed already. Assembly is'nt an issue, it's just having to have the block machined with new pistons/rings that I dont want to get into.

[KillerCam282]

With a modded valve train that would pwn.

[jonyb]

[immeraufdemhund]

oh dear gooooooooodddddddd... that's never good. if the f22 block can fit both h22 and h23 then i dont know why it wouldn't work.

[WiKKeDV16]

yes it will work.. the casting process from the factory was the same.. hence how a h22a head can fit on a h23a block.. works both ways..

slight differences would be the compression ratio

h23a heads have a cc of about 50.5 i believe it is.. zigen correct me if im wrong..

and the h22a head is 53.8cc... so.. for those that dont understand how that means more compression...theres 3.3cc less space...

less space= more air is crammed in a tighter area = more compression... exactly how much ill leave that up to cisco with his comp calculator...

do it.. its a cheap alternative and it will work just fine..

p06 chipped to tune it if thats its use.. if not.. p14 with atleast a safc... higher compresion will prob make it run lean on just a stock ecu..


anything else?

[HondaFan81]

d112crzy came to me with this thread and we ran the numbers...

H23 head on USDM H22 block > 10.7 CR

H23 head on JDM H22 block > 11.4 CR


H23 head cc is 50.0 CC


It's not as bad as you might think. I agree on it would be a revvier H23 but the compression would increase so you might even out on your losses for torque, etc. In the end, might retain the torque around same level and increase revs. go for it.

[JDMcb7]

This sounds interesting

[shawn.hayden]

Wikked you own! I knew you'd have some info... so should he try to follow the DIY for the H22 head/H23 block? or will it be different in some area's?

[WiKKeDV16]

follow the DIY.. he will also need the plug that goes in the vtec orifice hole.. if u have the h23a block laying around pull it from the block and insert it into the h22a block.. its what allows vtec to hit (oil pressure).. it has to be blocked off on the nonvtec applications.. atleast thats how they came from the plant.. so put things where they were..

h22a block
h23a head
h23a headgasket
h23a timing gear
f22a/h23a water pump gear on h22a pump(pull the h22a pulley off the h22a pump and press on the f22a/h23a pulley)

-why do u have to do this
h22a= has diff belt teeth spacing than f22/h23
so... easiest thing to do is to convert all to f22/h23.. since the majority of the timing componets are f22/h23

h23a timing belt or GSR belt
u would need to make a custom waterpipe.. if memory serves (silicion coupler)....

reason being.. the timing side entrance for the long water pipe (Runs across the back of the block).... on the h22a is smaller than on f22a/h23... so.. therefore ud need the beginning of the h22a and the ending of the h23.. so it would match up with the thermostat housing like so



timing chain side-----h22a-------[--------]--h23a------thermostat...


besides that u should be set to go.. its alot of little shit.. but u should have access to the h22a block for this stuff..



(unless thats the one u planned on using for urself...).. sorry bub.. lol