Ahh the joy of post-swap fine tuning...HELP!!!

[Ronald_Type-R]

Well, installed my downpipe today, hooked up O2 sensor, started the car, set the timing to 16, and let it run for a while, now that I can actually let the car idle without waking up the whole neighbourhood!!

Couple of problems that I ran into..First and foremost, car seems to be running super rich, 'coz the whole time my motor is running, I have black smoke coming out of my muffler..

Now, on the MAP control box, there are 5 vacuum lines:
- 1 for EGR
- 1 for charcoal canister
- 2 for intake manifold
- 1 for TB (on the old F22A1)

I hooked up all those, EXCEPT for the last one, since H22A TB doesn't have a vacuum line..SO! At first, I hooked up that line to the intake mani as well, and that caused a big surge when idling, and a lot of hesitation when I rev it..

I then unplugged that line from the intake mani, and the car idles steady, but REALLY low..I'm talking 200RPM or less..It stalls at times..I tried turning the idle screw, but after a couple of full turns, the idle is barely climbing..Didn't want it to turn anymore and screw something up..My question is, where am I supposed to hook up that vacuum line on the H22?

Second question is about my injector resistor box..I relocated mine, using an aluminum bracket...I just want to know if that box is supposed to be grounded or not?

My FPR gauge is showing a constant 41-43PSI, since I'm still using a stock FPR..

But anyways, I still don't understand why my car is running so rich..Constantly blowing black smoke, even backfiring at times..Any idea, input, advice, suggestion? Please help guys, I'm not too good at analyzing this kind of stuff..

Another thing I'm worried about is that my rad fan won't come on! The temp started to climb after a while, which got me worried..There's nothing wrong with the wiring, but the engine ran pretty hot today..OH! And my e-brake light on the cluster is not working for some odd reason!!! Hahaha oh boy, so many things..I'm not getting any code from the ECU though!! Either that or the jumper cable for the ECU code is just not working I just hope this isn't caused by a bad ECU..

But anyways, any input from you experts will be highly appreciated...Thanks in advance!

Ronald

[SMseagren83]

41-43 psi seems a bit high to me.

USDM spec for the H22A1 is 24-31 psi with the vacuum line hooked up.

USDM spec for the H23A1/F22A1 is 28-35psi with vacuum.

those are both at idle.


which FPR are you using?? try throwing on your F22 FPR and see if that helps any.

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ALSO, the vacuum line that was on ur old F22 TB was for the MAP sensor inside the black vacuum control box. ur H22 is OBD2, so its map sensor is on the TB correct? you can modify the map sensor and re-wire it so as to use the TB mounted MAP sensor.

otherwise you are going to need to modify the vacuum source on H22 TB where the map sensor mounts. ** NextEpisode** i believe had to do this with his H22 swap. to retain the F22 map sensor location

Or you could just use vacuum Ts and make it so that vacuum line from the black box **for map sensor** uses one nipple on the intake mani and the other two lines share the other nipple/vaccum source. lol

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those are a couple ideas. hope it helps a little. ill add more later when im not so tired.

[turboaccordlx]

Second question is about my injector resistor box..I relocated mine, using an aluminum bracket...I just want to know if that box is supposed to be grounded or not?

Aluminum is conductive so either way you are all set.

[DFresh19864]

I had the same problem with my vacuum lines but here is where mines are attached with no problems...


But if you using the H22A FPR I dont know why the pressure is so high because if you use the accord one you should/will get a check engine light.

Also, why did you advance the timing, thats probably the problem right there with it running so rich..Set it back to 0 and go from there

[foamypirate]

Base timing is 16*.

[owequitit]

I disagree with some of the solutions given to deal with the MAP sensor vacuum line.

That little nipple on the throttle body is a CALIBRATED orifice. That means that it is designed to flow certain amounts of air, under certain amounts of vacuum.

Any port other than a specifically designed port, is not going to read accurately, because the computer will be assuming the wrong things.

I would either:

1) Source an OBD-1 Throttle body that has the correct vacuum fitting.

2) build an adapter harness, so that your stock TPS plug will plug into the TPS on the OBD-II throttle body.

[SMseagren83]

I would either:

1) Source an OBD-1 Throttle body that has the correct vacuum fitting.

2) build an adapter harness, so that your stock TPS plug will plug into the TPS on the OBD-II throttle body.

huh?

why cant he snag the map sensor plug off the prelude harness he has and extend the wires from the MAP sensor plug on the accord to the prelude TB mounted map sensor??? and just make sure the wires match up to corresponding wires on the prelude plug?

[DFresh19864]

I disagree with some of the solutions given to deal with the MAP sensor vacuum line.

That little nipple on the throttle body is a CALIBRATED orifice. That means that it is designed to flow certain amounts of air, under certain amounts of vacuum.

Any port other than a specifically designed port, is not going to read accurately, because the computer will be assuming the wrong things.

I would either:

1) Source an OBD-1 Throttle body that has the correct vacuum fitting.

2) build an adapter harness, so that your stock TPS plug will plug into the TPS on the OBD-II throttle body.

Would this give a different response in the way the throttle feels or what?

[owequitit]

huh?

why cant he snag the map sensor plug off the prelude harness he has and extend the wires from the MAP sensor plug on the accord to the prelude TB mounted map sensor??? and just make sure the wires match up to corresponding wires on the prelude plug?

He can, but I usually avoid chopping harnesses if I can help it.

I was thinking along the same lines, instead of cutting his harness though, he can just get the correct opposite sex plug, and build a reverse harness that has the Accord plug on the car side, and the Prelude plug on the MAP sensor side.

This allows him to just "plug into" both harness, without cutting anything and dealing with everything that goes with it.

[owequitit]

Would this give a different response in the way the throttle feels or what?

The proper source is calibrated, so it can cause response, fueling, and drivability issues.

Basically, the map sensor is seeing a different signal then it should, and thus everything related to that signal being reliable or unreliable is going to be affected.

Don't know how much, but it sure seems like a waste to swap an engine and not get everything possible out of it.

[timmy0tool]

here's what i followed but as i understand you got an OBDII tb correct? then maybe this isn't gonna help

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=53082

heres a pic i made a while ago...


the top 3 vac lines go to the throttle body and intake manifold. youve got 2 of them right, i dont see the left one.

there are 2 lines coming from the bottom, the short one is looped back to teh evap canister like you have it, and the long one goes to the EGR valve (your third picture).

make sure any extra opening on the intake manifold is closed! like if you have unused vacuum nipples (there often is, on the driver side of the intake mani), make sure you cap them off.

the loose sensor appears to be the temperature sending unit, its the sensor that makes your temperature gauge on the dashboard get a reading. it has a red wire, correct? it gets installed on the side of the head, under the distributor. if its not installed, youd be losing coolant through the opening... perhaps theres a bolt plugging up the hole? take your distributor off and post a picture of the side of the head if you can.

those extra wires (including the blue one) appear to be added separately, and not stock... so im going to assume they are the wiring for VTEC, the knock sensor, and the IABs. can you follow them and find where they lead?


and its normal for the car to only rev to 4k if you only press the pedal down halfway. it should rev directly related to how much you press the pedal. hardly press it, itll hardly rev up... press it all the way, and itll go flying up to redline.

[BustedLX]

So... do you still need help?

[Ronald_Type-R]

Hey guys! Thanks for all the input...Sorry I haven't been able to give you guys an update, been so busy trying to get the car up and running..

I fixed my O2 sensor wirings, did another valve adjustment, and right now the car's running pretty normal, with no black smoke coming out of the exhaust...An improvement!! STill having problems with the MAP control box tho..

WELL! Looking at this pic (Thanks Timmy for finding this info for me!), I'll try to explain what I've done so far..
[img]http://www.****.com/www/egrlines.jpg[/img]

Line #4 and 5 is out of the question, I have no problem with those..Line #3, right now I plug it on the intake manifold, since I don't have a plug on the TB (OBD2)...

So here's the problem...I've tried a couple of things with line #1 & 2..When I plug in both of them to the intake mani, idle would start surging, and my car would run rich...So I unplug line #2, cap off the rest of the plugs on the intake mani, and idle still surges...So I unplug line #1, and plug #2 back in, and the motor stalled immediately, and wouldn't start..

SO! Right now line #1 & 2 is unplugged (What are those two lines for anyways? ), and the car is running...So so...There's a loud ticking, and it's not coming from the motor...My guess is one of the injector is bad..My friend heard it, and he told me it sounds like a sticky injector...The car starts up pretty easy though..

I finished most of the car today, and took it for a spin..The car is drivable, but I'm just not feeling the power...The feeling and response reminds me when I'm driving the car with an old F to aircare, with timing retarded all the way down...I'm not driving it hard right now, but the motor kind of struggles to get up to 4000RPM...The theory of a bad injector kind of makes sense, but I dunno..I'm going to adjust the timing again tomorrow..

It's kind of intermittent ya know? Sometimes I feel the power, and then all of a sudden it just quiets down...I really wish I have another set of injectors that I can try..

I drove it up a pretty steep hill just now, and when I got to the top, the check engine light came on, and idle started surging...Got home, turned it off, short the jumper for the ECU code, turn the key to the ignition, and...No code?

Well, bottom line, there's a ticking noise, and the car hesitates a bit when accelerating..It's almost like I'm running 3 cylinders...SOMETIMES...

Any more input, advice, suggestion? i'm starting to run out of ideas here hehehe...Thanks for all your guys' help, keep 'em coming please!!

Ronald

[Ronald_Type-R]

I would either:

1) Source an OBD-1 Throttle body that has the correct vacuum fitting.

2) build an adapter harness, so that your stock TPS plug will plug into the TPS on the OBD-II throttle body.

TPS? I'm guessing you meant MAP? I'd love to get rid of that big ol' control box and use the sensor on the TB instead...But how exactly do I figure out the wiring? I'm too scared to mess around with it haha..

But if I can use the Lude MAP sensor, that means I won't have to worry about the vacuum lines anymore? hmmm that'd be nice...I guess I'll do some more research on this..

Thanks again guys, I really appreciate the help Can't wait for this motor to be running 110%!

Ronald

[10thcb7]

keep us updated i dint know so much would come out of a h22 swap