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H23 Swap Idle/AC/Black Smoke Issues

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    H23 Swap Idle/AC/Black Smoke Issues

    Hi guys! I'm new to this board but I need all the help I can get on this one.

    My buddy and I just just recently completed a H23A1 swap into my 93 Accord LX. When I first dropped in the motor I had that funny idle hunting crap that a lot of people encounter. So I swapped the IACV off my F22A1 motor which I know was good and I tried taking apart and cleaning the Fast Idle Thermo valve located right under the throttle body. Didn't seem to work, so I ended up disconnecting the TPS and drove around for a while and eventually I decided to try plugging it back in. Now I wasn't having the idle hunt problem anymore, but it still does some funny things. When I drive at low speeds (10-15 MPH) through parking lots in 2nd gear the car starts pulling on it's own when the revs drop below i'd say about 1500 so essentially it's still somewhat idle hunting at these low revs when the car is in gear. Also when I engage the clutch as I'm driving the revs shoot up slightly (about 250 rpms) as I'm switching gears, it's really weird. The CEL does come on a little after starting up when I start driving but I haven't had a chance to get the code read.

    Anyways, I decided i'd try putting in another complete throttle body I found in a junkyard. To no avail, same problem, nothings changed. I narrowed it down to a couple things.

    I'm thinking it's some sort of vacuum leak. I looked at the vacuum diagram for the H23, I have the EVAP canister from my F22 still in the car. My friend had to bridge one of the vacuum lines because the H23 EVAP had 3 lines attached, my F22 EVAP only has 2.

    Now here's the question, does anyone know what the purpose of the EVAP canister is? Is it necessary for me to obtain an H23 EVAP to fix this issue?

    I'm writing a whole story here so please bear with me if you haven't fallen asleep already. A few more issues I encounter on a daily basis. When I kick on the A/C the car once again begins idle hunting, not consistently though. The revs will drop and almost die out, but before it dies out it shoots up to about 1700 rpms and that is done pretty consistently when i drive around the streets waiting on lights. The A/C also begins to not be as cold when I get off the highways, when I'm on the highways A/C is fine, still not as cold as it should be but sufficient to run with no issues. It's just when I bring the car to a stop the issues come into play. My analysis of this problem: I'm thinking I have a bad condenser fan, i don't think it's kicking on, but i don't think it's the cause of the idle issue. I did charge the system with a DIY A/C kit and there are no leaks, it holds the charge.

    Third and final issue I'm writing about is my car seems to be blowing black smoke upon near redline revs, particularly on close to redline shifts, when I make that shift before redline a puff of black smoke shoots out my exhaust and now the back of my white accord is starting to look like a lemans race car. (Kind of a cool look, but a biotch to clean off) I'm not sure if it's just fuel burning out the tailpipe or is it oil as well burning off as well because that's the other thing is that I have to fill up on oil every 1.5 to 2 weeks, i think there is a leak as i notice my transmission is covered in oil so i'm not really sure if the oil is being burned through the exhaust or is it just leaking out near the distributor cap. I recently pull a whole new head gasket kit in because my JG port and polished head was damaged and had to swap it out for a stock head. So i don't think any of the seals are bad.

    Oh yeah I forgot to add, when I pump the brakes at a standstill without a/c on, the car idle hunts a little until I stop pumping. Some kind of related vacuum issue.

    For some reason I feel like these issues are all related to each other some way some how but I'm not absolutely sure. Any insight would be grately appreciated.
    Last edited by H23AccordJG; 07-07-2004, 09:30 AM.

    #2
    Blowin fire balls

    Hey, I am new to the forum just wanted to say that I have the same set up! Was just wondering what color ur CB7 was? Mine is White with a big black spot on the back bumper from the Fire balls that shot out the back! Yeah it happens every time i down shift, I don't know what causes it but I think it's really cool! Gas mileage is a biotch but the car is really fast!
    Hey now, My signature was too big, so it was deleted.

    Comment


      #3
      hmmm....what a coincidence...i think i may have seen you before somewhere...i know...i've seen you on the pike...yeah i hear about you....in fact...you roll around in that lambo van sometimes huh??

      Comment


        #4
        Hey man I have the same problem with my swap H23a1 in my 90 accord. My idle seems to do the same exact thing it hunts for the idle until it warms up a bit then it settles between 700-900. i think mine only moves from 700-to 900 because of the cams. But as for the car bucking and pulling alittle in 2nd around 1500 I've got the same problem. For the black smoke do you have a aftermarket fuel pump or injectors maybe? Running rich? Mine only does it when i down shift, but only because my car runs rich because of the fuel pump. Also you might want to make your car doesn't smoke all the time or smoke more as time goes on, since your leaking oil, hopefully you didn't wear out your rings ya know. Might want to do a compression test make sure your still within specs for you compression.
        Last edited by HaulAss247; 01-23-2006, 06:23 PM.
        Previous cb7members ride thread
        86 Nissan d21 in the workshttp://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=155292

        TSM Garage: Honda/Acura, VW/Audi, and Subaru performance and maintenance work.
        Contact:Ben Cell: (302) 898-1840

        Comment


          #5
          i've got an h23 mani on my F22a1, and my idle was doing the same as all you guys have mentioned, i play and play around with my FIV (thermo fast idle valve), you must under stand that our idle is run by coolant temp...from experience with idle, i noticed that if any air is in the system is will cause a rise and fall idle, then jumping idle, theres a post around here somewhere that has a list of Idle diagonists that might help pin point similiar problems down;

          this is what i did for mine,

          easiest thing to do least pain full, open your radiator cap with the car on, and fill you cooling system( this allows the air to come out blah blah blah and the coolant to take its place, i'm sure u kno this), then sqeeze the hose and allow coolant to rush out do it a few times, from top raditor hose then bottom(make sure u got a bucket, its deadly to animals), then release, let the car sit with the cap still off for like 10-25 mins( this is the longest part) after; fill your coolant over flow to max, if it goes past max a little dont worry bout it theres still plenty of space in the overflow.... then play with your FIV, (for those that dont know, on an H23 its under the TB has 2 coolant lines going to it, remove one of the screws on the backside and lossen the other so that the cap is still there, now with a small flat head screwdriver find the slots on the plastic and turn it backwards this lossens the spring) while lossen it,listen to your idle come back to normal( the rise and fall should stop, if it does bring it up till u find the sweet spot where the idle jumps again, then slowly lossen till you hear it go to normal( the sweet spot as i called it) [it sucks to deal with but i think it helps to know where it is]..find your sweet spot and leave it, with the car still on throw the radiator cap back on, shut the car off, leave it, shut the car off for an hour( go watch TV) go out and check on it and hour or so later( allow cooling to happen), my car started @ 2K then slowly went down to 1400 and stayed there till it felt warm enough, then went to 1100, then to 750, once i saw it stay @ 1400 and not budge i new the choke was running(this is what u want)...cause theres no way anything could be so dead on....let your car warm up again and hopefully you car's idle should return back to normal...if still nothing PM me and i'll help asist you more, i'm currently working a women's 94 accord that has the same problem sometimes....feel free to PM
          Last edited by ehulst; 01-23-2006, 07:44 PM.
          93 Accord- SOLD
          94 Civic- F22a1 Swap, current DD

          Comment


            #6
            Hey when you run the car without the radiator cap on it just will not build any pressure in the cooling system what you want to do is bleed the system by opening the bleeder screw on the thermostat housing.
            Previous cb7members ride thread
            86 Nissan d21 in the workshttp://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=155292

            TSM Garage: Honda/Acura, VW/Audi, and Subaru performance and maintenance work.
            Contact:Ben Cell: (302) 898-1840

            Comment

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