a/c problem

[1991acclude]

Ok my a/c quit working. I checked the a/c fuse and its fine. I press the button and the fan doesnt come on. Now only my fan on the passenger's side works. I notice there is a black wire coming from the a/c compressor and its a power or ground wire, I dont know but its hooked up. I thought that with the car on and the button pushed in the fans are supposed to run. Someone please help, oh and I noticed that upon my car warming up my fan doesn't kick on at all. What gives...

[C91BLX7]

If there is no refrigerant in the system (NO or LOW pressure) the fans and compressor will not kick on.

[Djmoua]

hmm i do have the same issue...stealing thread hahaha jk..but how do we fix this? just recharge kit from wally world or autozone and such??

[C91BLX7]

hmm i do have the same issue...stealing thread hahaha jk..but how do we fix this? just recharge kit from wally world or autozone and such??

Depends if you are still set up for R12 or been converted to R134a, You might want to get one bottle of the leakfinder/sealer and a can of refrigerant with the hose if you need one. Thats if you have a small leak. if you have something major you'll have to get that fixed.

[Djmoua]

Depends if you are still set up for R12 or been converted to R134a, You might want to get one bottle of the leakfinder/sealer and a can of refrigerant with the hose if you need one. Thats if you have a small leak. if you have something major you'll have to get that fixed.

hmm well i havent used my AC forever, I never used it....so i guess it ran out of something...so me and this dood just need a simple recharge heh? i mean mine is still all f22a1 stock. Nothin new with A/C just intake and exhaust.

[riceraccord]

A/C systems can be complicated. If it is still R12 what you need to do is find out how much pressure is in the line if any. If there is none you need to find the leak most likely it will be a bad seal at this point if the system is empty check to make sure the electrical part of your compressor works. The system is probably dry so crack the line on top of the compressor and dump about an ounce of ester oil in it. Now turn the ignition on and your A/C. You shouldnt have to start the car. Now jump the posts on the pressure switch which if the electrical is good the clutch on the compressor should come on if it doesnt you need to find out why before you proceed if it does you then need to pull the system apart and thoroughly clean the system with the proper A/C flush. At this time while the components are out you can check each one for possible leaks by using compressed air and a good ear. After installing a new dryer/accumulator and filter reassemble everything and use the proper amount of lubricant in the system and install all new seals. Now you can install a retrofit kit to convert it to R134A its only about 10 bucks at your local parts store. Then you need to vacuum the sytem to about 30hg to release all the pressur from inside the system. You need to do this for at least 30 min. to ensure there are no leaks in the system and it will hold pressure. Then you can proceed to charge the system. The accord should take about 3 cans of freon which is a little over 2lbs. Hope this helps in your quest to stay cool in the summer.

[NAiL05]

1. Regardless if AC button is pushed both fans should still come on. As I recall thats how mine is I need to recheck.

2. Most likely its low pressure as mentioned. Some cars have a low pressure cutoff switch where if it senses not enough refrigerant the compressor wont kick on. This is to prevent the compressor from killing itself. I dont remember if the cb7 had one but when I looked at my compressor it was burnt out (previous owner mixed 12 and 134).

3. As mentioned you can do a quick recahrge of the system and throw in some dye. This will help you trace the leak. WARNING do not run this forever and finally decide to check it like 4 weeks later since A- you wont find the leak B- depending on severity of leak you will have an engine full of dye.

4. If you look into a seal kit *not expensive* 10 bucks at most from autozone with a shit load of extra orings you dont use that would be something to look into if you find the leak to be coming through the pipes. If its coming out of the compressor or something else well thats gonna suck harder.

[AllWhiteCoupe]

All 3 of my accord have had prob. with the a/c.

1. If your condeser fan doesnt come on, you will have very little or no ac.

2. If you have a leak, you wont have a/c for long.

3. Ive heard alot about this r22 to 134a conversion, but i didnt mess with it. I know a few very credible/certified HVAC tecs. and they all said "just put a can of 134a in you system and it'll be fine". Ithought they were stipid, but eventually i just said fuck it, couse it was hot outside. You know what? It worked just fine for about 2 years when the car was wrecked.

Im not sayin its the best option.....But it worked out for me.


Ohh yeah and a BIG#4. You can make alota money fixin peoples a/c if you know what you doing. I do it every summer. Just look at it this way, most people have a car, and every one will have an a/c prob at some time.

[NAiL05]

here is the proper way to convert. Yea throwing in 134a into the system works AFTER and I repeat AFTER vacuuming the whole system including taking out the old oil and so on. Oils from both refrigerants DO NOT MIX. And once you do it turns into gunk which = clogged up compressor = heating up compressor = new compressor. So it all adds up. But the proper way is obvious buy the fittings. Drain the system, Vac refrigerant/oil out, Replace the AC dryer/reciever, Recharge with oil/134a. That is the way to do it. You can use the stock R12 dryer but all the instructors I have talked to say its more safe to change it to a new unit rather than use the old.

[AllWhiteCoupe]

First off, nails is right. Do it the correct way if you have the $.

I head the samething about it just turning to gunk, that why i didnt want to do it, but danm im really not B/S'in when i said it worked. I used a digital thermometer (i think it was a Fluke meter) with one probe inside and one probe outside. It read 90 +or- a degree outside and 39-40 inside the duct.

I didnt vacume my system or anything. And for the record, i had NO a/c befor putting in 2 1/2 cans of 134a.

It made my windows frost up.

[cb7boy]

Is the Drier located on the right side of the engine bay near
the power steering fluid and cruise control.. My car isn't holding pressure and
used a seal detector and the leak is coming from a cylinder like object on the right
of the engine bay..