how to get crank bolt off w/o impact gun?

[Losiracer2]

Okay I messed up the TDC or whatever in relation to the cam and and crank. I'm hitting a valve or something, the engine is not rotating when i was manually cranking it.

So i probably need to remove the crank pulley. But how do you do this w/o an impact? I know I already have to remove the PS and the Alt. already...ugh i'm getting PISSED this was NOT supposed to happen, I didn't even touch the crank when I took the head off, and I set the cam to TDC for #1 and now its hitting valves. FUCK!

not to mention, one of the lower bolts holding the plastic shroud is just spinning, I can't even get the damn cover off. So idk i need help.

[Night Wolf]

you need the retainer. it holds the crank from moving while you remove the center nut

[Losiracer2]

does that cost alot? or is it rentable from autozone or something?

[owequitit]

Just reset the crank to TDC using the mark on the flex plate.

Detension the tensioner. It helps if you push DOWN on it with an extension, and then tighten the nut. This will keep it detensioned, and give you plenty of slack to work with.

Then set the cam to TDC using the mark on the cam gear.

GENTLY put tension on the belt OPPOSITE the direction of rotation (pull the side toward the front of the car up.

Make sure you slip it on the cam pulley with SLIGHT tension. Too much, and the crank will move again.

Feed the belt carefully onto the cam pulley, and then make sure it is seated properly around the waterpump and tensioner. If you use a flashlight to look down there, you should be able to see it sitting where it needs to sit.

Don't be surprised if it takes a couple of tries, to get the belt where you want it to sit without moving the crank.

Once it is on, and running where it should, release the tensioner, and retension the belt.

Spin the engine one complete rotation in the same direction as rotation, recheck your timing, and repeat if necessary.

The only other option is to get the crank pulley holder, which usually runs 60-80 bucks. Moroso makes one, and Blue Point makes one that should be available through your local Snap On truck. Or you can borrow one or look online.

Then you will need a 1/2" breaker bar to brace against the suspension, to keep the crank pulley from moving, as the Blue Point one does NOT come with a handle, but the Moroso one does. If you have the mororso, disregard this step.

Once you have the crank pulley steady, you will need some 1/2" extensions, and a 19MM socket, as well as a HUGE ass breaker bar. The longer the better. Then you will ALSO want a 4-6" length of cast iron gas pipe to put on the end of the breaker bar. This will be your leverage to break that bolt free. It is SUPPOSED to be torqued to 159 ft/lb, but it is usually much tighter. Just apply leverage until it breaks. It is going to snap, and sound like metal breaking. That is normal.

When you reinstall it, make sure you coat the threads with fresh motor oil, so it doesn't screw up the bolt or the crank.

[Losiracer2]

so the flex plate is the flywheel mark? looking through that little hole on the block? above the F22A6 engraving?

And right now, I can't even see the tensioner, the lower timing cover is blocking it. All I can see is the 14mm nut. If i could get the timing cover off I wouldl, but that would mean the crank pulley has to come off, which i can't do w/ what I have

[wed3k]

i held the engine via pinion gear teeth and jumped on my dinky 18" breaker bar. after 4-5 jumps with my entire weight on it it cranked it loose.

[owequitit]

i held the engine via pinion gear teeth and jumped on my dinky 18" breaker bar. after 4-5 jumps with my entire weight on it it cranked it loose.

I have had them before with 2 160 lb guys full weight off the ground and a 3 ft bar, and they didn't come lose...

It depends on the bolt. Some come off easier than others.

[Chaos325]

I had crank bolts not loosen even with a air gun. i had to heat the bolt. i usually tighten a bit then loosen.

[wed3k]

my motor had 5k miles on it

[Losiracer2]

well i guess i'll line up the cam and the crank to TDC and then go from there. hopefully it'll work out.

[foamypirate]

I've had crank pulley bolts not break free with a 600 lb-ft impact running on a 175 psi air supply.

[owequitit]

I've had crank pulley bolts not break free with a 600 lb-ft impact running on a 175 psi air supply.

Me too, which is why I settled on a 6' length of gas pipe.

That pipe DOES NOT bend, and you figure, even a little 100lb guy is generating 600 ft/lb.

Take your average 170lb guy, and with NO FORCE, just weight, he is generating over 1000 ft/lbs.

Have him actually lift up, or walk forward, and you can EASILY exceed 2,000 ft/lbs.

Generally, don't pull on it from the front though, because that is a good way to split your head open.

I haven't had a crank pulley bolt yet that even put up a fight... We started doing this instead of using my friends ported and polished Matco IMPACT with 175lb air supply. Stock, it was supposedly rated a 600lb/ft @120 PSI or something like that.

It's all about leverage. That is what let us build the pyramids, and it is what shall allow us mere mortals to break Honda crank pulleys free!

[C91BLX7]

My uncle took one off with a little 1/2 ratchet, given the engine threw a rod so we just jamed a steel rod to keep the crank from moving

[wed3k]

Me too, which is why I settled on a 6' length of gas pipe.

That pipe DOES NOT bend, and you figure, even a little 100lb guy is generating 600 ft/lb.

Take your average 170lb guy, and with NO FORCE, just weight, he is generating over 1000 ft/lbs.

Have him actually lift up, or walk forward, and you can EASILY exceed 2,000 ft/lbs.

Generally, don't pull on it from the front though, because that is a good way to split your head open.

I haven't had a crank pulley bolt yet that even put up a fight... We started doing this instead of using my friends ported and polished Matco IMPACT with 175lb air supply. Stock, it was supposedly rated a 600lb/ft @120 PSI or something like that.

It's all about leverage. That is what let us build the pyramids, and it is what shall allow us mere mortals to break Honda crank pulleys free!

i actually like to use a 3/4" impact gun at work in conjuction with the oxy acelytene torch.

[HondaFan81]

Okay I messed up the TDC or whatever in relation to the cam and and crank. I'm hitting a valve or something, the engine is not rotating when i was manually cranking it.

So i probably need to remove the crank pulley. But how do you do this w/o an impact? I know I already have to remove the PS and the Alt. already...ugh i'm getting PISSED this was NOT supposed to happen, I didn't even touch the crank when I took the head off, and I set the cam to TDC for #1 and now its hitting valves. FUCK!

not to mention, one of the lower bolts holding the plastic shroud is just spinning, I can't even get the damn cover off. So idk i need help.

So what's the official word here, did you actually bend valves?

I put anti-seize on threads of crank pulley bolts, don't bother with motor oil. This will prevent future issues.