Axle question!!

[breeziebabyyy]

I've done some research on the board and wanted to ask this quick question since nobody has ever asked it.. My cv boot is busted on my axles already and they have only been on the car for 4 months now.. what do I do, take the axles out and take them back to the store to get them exchanged or is there way to replace the cv boots without having to replace the axles? All comments would be appreciated, thanks

[SN2BH22CB7]

are they clicking?

if they're clicking...you can't save those....if they're NOT clicking...you can catch it quick and put a QUICKBOOT on it. ( Make sure you pack the new boot with HIGH TEMP wheel bearing grease. )

if they're clicking...you have to get new ones ....I sure hope you have the warranty...so you can just take them back and exchange them.

keep us posted Chica!

get those axles fixed!

[breeziebabyyy]

are they clicking?

if they're clicking...you can't save those....if they're NOT clicking...you can catch it quick and put a QUICKBOOT on it. ( Make sure you pack the new boot with HIGH TEMP wheel bearing grease. )

if they're clicking...you have to get new ones ....I sure hope you have the warranty...so you can just take them back and exchange them.

keep us posted Chica!

get those axles fixed!

Their not clicking thank god lmao.. I'll check the local store here and see how much they are so I can do a quick fix on that before its too late

[bruno8747]

If you have the warranty on them then just exchange them. The boots are a little tricky to do if you do not know what you are doing.

I would not recommend the quick booths because they tend to seperate after a while. The OEM style replacement boots are the best to use but it involves a little work.

Sometimes its just plain easier and cleaner to buy a new axle.

[alkoholikwun]

Sometimes its just plain easier and cleaner to buy a new axle.

X2, i just wait til the CV joints bust completely and then replace them. my driver side is busted right now.

[SN2BH22CB7]

If you have the warranty on them then just exchange them. The boots are a little tricky to do if you do not know what you are doing.

I would not recommend the quick booths because they tend to seperate after a while. The OEM style replacement boots are the best to use but it involves a little work.

Sometimes its just plain easier and cleaner to buy a new axle.

whats up hommie....long time no talk!

still got that H22 CB?

anyhoo...

BACK ON TOPIC.

yeah...its a little tricky...and its not recommended for beginners.

best thing to do...is just replace em.

not hard!

take the axlenut off ( 36MM )

unbolt the lower balljoint and tierod end from the knuckle ( take the cotterpins out and take the castlenuts off )

unbolt the shockfork and drop the lower control arm further down for more clearance to remove the axle ( some CBs I think its the 90-91s you have to do that )

swing out the knuckle...get a good size prybar..and pry the axle out ( carefully ) from the transmission ...OR intermediate shaft ( whichever side is bad )

not hard.

NOTE: dont forget to take the caliper off...and make sure you put anti-squeal on the back of the pads..and anti-seize ( Lucas RED N' TACKY grease ) on the caliper pins and pad clips. ( to further prevent squeakage )

I had to do that to my girl's CB...totally forgot to put anti-squeal on her pads and anti-seize on the pad clips..and they were squeaking like a guinea pig that was hungry.

[Fake Thug]

I've had a quick boot on my pass. outer cv joint since 2005. If you decide to go that route I suggest using those small zipties to fasten the boot toghether instead of those little screws. The parts store also carries the zipties. The ties get tighter and wont pull thru the rubber or separate.

[bcjammerx]

if you bought them from an auto store ...many have a LLW...limited life time warranty...but you'll need the receipt.

If you replace the boot you do NOT want to use those cheapos that you put on without taking the axle off...I think they are called ez boots or quick boots...it's a boot that is pre-split in half...trust me they never last.

The cheapos are around 19-20 (you'll be doing this all over again very soon if using the cheapos...or replacing your axle sooner than normal)

the regulars are around 25-26

(prices are listed from Longview Texas...prices may vary?)

IF there is no warranty...then you'll need to pull the axle and replace the boot that way...snap ring pliers is usually all you need...but I've not done this on our accords...only on toyotas.

[N9netwoAccord]

whats up hommie....long time no talk!

still got that H22 CB?

anyhoo...

BACK ON TOPIC.

yeah...its a little tricky...and its not recommended for beginners.

best thing to do...is just replace em.

not hard!

take the axlenut off ( 36MM )

unbolt the lower balljoint and tierod end from the knuckle ( take the cotterpins out and take the castlenuts off )


unbolt the shockfork and drop the lower control arm further down for more clearance to remove the axle ( some CBs I think its the 90-91s you have to do that )

swing out the knuckle...get a good size prybar..and pry the axle out ( carefully ) from the transmission ...OR intermediate shaft ( whichever side is bad )

not hard.

NOTE: dont forget to take the caliper off...and make sure you put anti-squeal on the back of the pads..and anti-seize ( Lucas RED N' TACKY grease ) on the caliper pins and pad clips. ( to further prevent squeakage )

I had to do that to my girl's CB...totally forgot to put anti-squeal on her pads and anti-seize on the pad clips..and they were squeaking like a guinea pig that was hungry.

you've listed what i feel is extra steps, all i do is unbolt the lower ball joint, and i can fit the axle through the fork, and the knuckle swings far enough out of the way still connected to the tie rod, also, why pull the caliper? i feel theres no need for that either.

[SN2BH22CB7]

you've listed what i feel is extra steps, all i do is unbolt the lower ball joint, and i can fit the axle through the fork, and the knuckle swings far enough out of the way still connected to the tie rod, also, why pull the caliper? i feel theres no need for that either.

I dunno mayne...thats just what I do to prevent any mishaps.

thats what ( I ) do.



I always do extra things.

and yeah...I have done axles on BOTH 1st version and 2nd version CBs..

for some WEIRD reason...the shockfork on the 90-91 seems smaller...causing you to unbolt it from the lower arm for more clearance. ( My experiences )

as compared to the 92-93s...you can fit it through without unbolting the shockfork.

I pull the caliper off the bracket for more ( Radius ) " clearance for the axle end to clear the hub "

once again....thats what "I" do.

you dont want to over extend the caliber hose.

[N9netwoAccord]

yea man, not doubting you. i know civics you have to pull the forks to get the axle through, but my 92 accord and my 95 i never had to

[SN2BH22CB7]

yea man, not doubting you. i know civics you have to pull the forks to get the axle through, but my 92 accord and my 95 i never had to

why did Honda do that?

make the shockforks smaller on the 90-91s ...and make the 92-93s and newer bigger?

it makes no sense.

its just slightly bigger. ( wider )

[C91BLX7]

Yeah on mine we took the bolt out of the LCA that holds the fork.

[breeziebabyyy]

Sorry for the delay guys lmao.. I talked to the place I got the axles from and I told them the cv boot was busted on both my axles and I just got them like 4 5 months ago and they were like do you have the receipt.. I said yes and they told me to bring the axles in and they will exchange them for no charge because they have a limited lifetime warranty on them.. now the only objective is to find the receipt and get the axles out and exchange them hahaaaa. I plan on wrestling this tomorrow morning Thanks for all you guys help I appreciate it
-Keanna

[EJX_Michael]

Hey, I hate to jack your thread, but I really don't want to start a new one on the same topic... So if you don't mind...

The clicking/ knocking caused by cv joint failure... I'm not sure if this is my problem...
Here is my scenario:
Going straight under normal acceleration- clicking that increases/decreases in speed, with car speed. It can be felt in the steering wheel and gas pedal.
Straight under heavy acceleration- No clicking at all...
Turning right at speed or making a lane change to the right- Heavy clicking heard and also in steering wheel and gas pedal.
" Left- Little clicking
Just rolling- Rythimic clicking with speed.
Braking semi hard to hard- No clicking or very little.

So is this the cv joints? Thanks.