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    #16
    you could do what he suggested BUT, just run to the PnP and grab the same mounts, fill them and then swap them in after they are done so there is virtually no down time.

    then with the two spare ones, you could fill them again if you still have any of that stuff and maybe resell them to someone on here looking for stiffer factory mounts.

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      #17
      Originally posted by Leung View Post
      you could do what he suggested BUT, just run to the PnP and grab the same mounts, fill them and then swap them in after they are done so there is virtually no down time.

      then with the two spare ones, you could fill them again if you still have any of that stuff and maybe resell them to someone on here looking for stiffer factory mounts.
      hmm you have a point. You can also do the transmission mount right??
      R.I.P. Landon Hilburn 06-27-08

      Soon to enter the family.
      CG Coupe!


      92 Accord EX Sedan (Newest project)

      Members ride thread 92 EX Sedan
      Members ride thread old 91 LX Coupe

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        #18
        Originally posted by blackedout View Post
        hmm you have a point. You can also do the transmission mount right??
        i don't see why not? i'm looking at my auto transmission mount and it's rubber just like my driver side mount.

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          #19
          Mounts

          The entire mount is costly and not necessary unless one or more of your mounts are already shot. In that case I would attempt to just acquire the mounts that are bad.

          If you want your motor to not move as much look into Energy Suspension mount inserts. For our car they have the front torque mount and rear mount.

          these two mounts are the ones that actually prevent the engine from moving when accelerating, shifting and braking. The other two basically support the weight of the engine.

          The Energy Suspension front torque mount is a soft polyurethane and it seems to work fairly well.

          The rear mount insert is a HARD polyurethane and it does a damn good job of preventing the engine from moving. The only downside is that you get A LOT of engine vibration from using it. So if this is a daily driver I would not recommend it.

          Both inserts are cheap though, so you can always do like I did and install them both and when you decided it was too much vibration then you can remove the rear insert.

          Hope this helps.

          201 Whp H22a with bolt ons, see the progress from stock f22a to now HERE

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            #20
            not sure if you're into using Ebay sold parts or not but the last time i checked you could probably get the rear and both side mounts for less than 100 bucks shipped from an ebay vendor.

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              #21
              Unless you have a serious turbo motor and you're not running the torque mount, do not bother filling the tranny and d/s mounts, those do not control the engine's rocking motion, focus on the torque mount and the rear mount.

              Window Weld works okay, but I have had great success w/ the urethane from McMaster Carr. Be ready for some serious vibration if you get the 94A! If you are going to get mount inserts for the rear, make sure you have the DX/LX mount and bracket, the Auto and EX 5 spd rear mounts are oil filled and cannot be filled. Last I heard, Prothane makes the rear insert (not sure if they still do or not) and ES makes the front insert.

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                #22
                Originally posted by Ghetto_CB7 View Post
                The entire mount is costly and not necessary unless one or more of your mounts are already shot. In that case I would attempt to just acquire the mounts that are bad.

                If you want your motor to not move as much look into Energy Suspension mount inserts. For our car they have the front torque mount and rear mount.

                these two mounts are the ones that actually prevent the engine from moving when accelerating, shifting and braking. The other two basically support the weight of the engine.

                The Energy Suspension front torque mount is a soft polyurethane and it seems to work fairly well.

                The rear mount insert is a HARD polyurethane and it does a damn good job of preventing the engine from moving. The only downside is that you get A LOT of engine vibration from using it. So if this is a daily driver I would not recommend it.

                Both inserts are cheap though, so you can always do like I did and install them both and when you decided it was too much vibration then you can remove the rear insert.

                Hope this helps.
                Yea man thanks alot i think ill just look into the torque mount and rear mont inserts then
                R.I.P. Landon Hilburn 06-27-08

                Soon to enter the family.
                CG Coupe!


                92 Accord EX Sedan (Newest project)

                Members ride thread 92 EX Sedan
                Members ride thread old 91 LX Coupe

                Comment


                  #23
                  Found a couple interesting links through Google:
                  http://www.superhonda.com/forum/f94/...mounts-204274/
                  http://www.crookedh.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3100

                  Kind of tempted to fill the CB rear and sides with the 60A flexible urethane (already have front insert). Would be... interesting.

                  Also tempted to do it to my new-to-me Saturn.

                  I like the idea of extending their useful life and reducing the stress on everything that flexes when the engine moves. And any possible "performance" benefits.
                  Opal Metallic Green '92 LX 2dr manual, 181k miles, '94 prelude VTEC wheels for summer (steelies with snow tires for winter), Omni-power struts/springs, and other junk

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                    #24
                    ^agreed! They if done rightly, I'd like to think they'd last forever!

                    I did 94A mounts all around, I literally cut certain sections of rubber out for a better hold/bond and room for more urethane. I used 2 lbs. for 4 mounts! They came out so stiff though, the motor does not move at all, but it rattles the hood, d/s fender, grill, d/s foglight bracket/horn, headliner, I could go on.

                    If I were making some serious power, def. worth it, but I am not, so I went back to the drawing board, did 60A torque + r. mount only, leaving d/s and tranny mounts alone (less vibration transfer, something to think about). Need to paint them and install them. If it's good, I may try to reuse the 94A torque mount and see what happens, vibration wise.

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