Clutch issues..

[Swifty1638]

I am kinda frusterated right now. I spend money and a lot of time yesterday, replacing my master clutch cylinder, and another hour bleeding the darn thing (I bench bled it, but I had nothing to cap off the lines in the car, so it took forever to get the air out). Now, It doesn't feel any different at all. This sucks! So, I still have a hard time downshifting into second and first, and while I have only driven home from work lastnigt thus far, I am willing to bet that I will have the very faint grinding in second gear (It only happens like every GREAT once in a while). The shifting jsut seems harder. Also, I dunno how hard it will to be to replace the slave cylinder..any ideas, and how can I keep air from getting into the system? Is it easier? I sure hope so..I am going turbo next spring, after this winter season, so I wanna get this kinda solved. I might jsut hafta bust out for an exedy stage 1 clutch, but I dunno how hard it is to replace it..I hear you gotta drop the whole motor..is this true? how hard is it? I'm gonna do it at work, but I dunno how much I would get charged..arg..

-A. Swift

[h22sparkle]

If i were you id have someone help me bleed it did you try bleeding it yourself? are there any leaks in the lines cause that can let air right in. Change the tranny oil by the way do you have enough in oil inside the tranny aswell.


Hmm could be your synchros ,any other problems with the gears do you have to pump the clutch pedal alot to get it into another gear how hard is the shifting does it fight back with you I had a similar problem like that before and it was my releasebearing any noises too?

[bagoon316]

clutch issues...

haha...my new specialty...i jus did mine yesterday...you can bleed it urself thats what i did. the manual says to get under ur car but you dont have to...jus fill the reservoir up all the way...leave the cap off so you can see it...open the bleed bolt...throw a towel down around the bleed bolt so brake fluid doesnt go everywhere...pump the pedal like twice..then check the fluid level...add some more...pump it again...add more...keep doin it till its tight. thats what i did and didnt have any problems. dont have to push the pedal down all the way anymore...have no problem downshifting or shifting. hope this helps...good luck!

[bagoon316]

isnt the slave cylinder where the bleed bolt is? i think its just two bolts and the hydrolic line...which is prolly a hell of a lot easier than the actual master cylinder. its right there across the fan on the intake side. it honestly cant be as hard as the master cylinder.

[Swifty1638]

yes, that's where the slave cylinder is. I had help with the bleeding, but It feels like I had no pedal at all. I am gonna try and replacing the slave cylinder this friday, when I get paid, but I fear that I have no clutch. It didn't wanna shift into second gear at all today (might have been teh temperture, dunno) and it does fight with me when I shift. The clutch pedal feels weak...how hard is it to replace the clutch? what would A shop charge to install one? must I drop the motor? I ask, cause even though I work there, I still gotta pay labor for stuff..

-A. Swift

[h22sparkle]

changin tranny oil

im goin synchromesh friction modified this weekend does anyone know the part #number to it? so i dont mess anything up

[Swifty1638]

What does this mean..?

"the clutch si self adjusting to compensate for wear. The total clutch pedal free-play os 0.35-0.59 in. (9-15mm). If there is no clearance between the master cylinder piston and pushrod, the release bearing is held agaist the diaphragm spring of the pressure plate, resulting in clutch slippage." also, too little free-play will lead to clutch slippage and premature wear; excessive play will lead to difficult shifting. Inspect the clutch free-play frequently and adjust as necessary..could this by my issue? I got like no second gear, and shifting is hard! Also, on the master cylinder, that gold allen wrench lookin screw...what is that? its on the side, right by where the clutch line goes into..to the slave cylinder. I also noticed that bleeding this system is not liek a brake bleeding. u gotta hook a hose up the slave cylinder, and immerse the other end of the tube in brake fluid, and slowely bleed the brakes that way..I wonder if I still have air pockets or not..

-A. Swift

[Swifty1638]

..also, must I take the motor out when replacing my clutch, or can I take out the axles, and then replace the clutch from underneath the car? is there a way to adjust the actual shifter linkage cables, to rid that second gear grind, and stuff?

-A. Swift

[gzagenius]

i really need to bleed my clutch, the bolts on the transaxle right?? un der the car, anyone have a link or wanna describe it any further tahn its already been done in this thread?? like what about a towel?? wouldnt it be easir to put a bucket or somethin, or do you not remove the bolt, just loosen it?? or what, im confused about the whole situation.

[NutBucket]

You don't need to pull the motor to do the clutch but its a hell of a lot easier. Comparison:

It took me the same amount of time to pull my H and replace the rear main seal as it to pull the tranny out with the F and just do the clutch, if not less time.

[Swifty1638]

ok. I am prolly jsut gonna leave the motor..got no cherry picker or anything..

also, what's the difference between stage 1 and stage 2 and stage 3 clutch kits? I know I am doin a turbo setup, and I NEED new axles, but anyone know which clutch I should get? I am guessin stage 1..

-A. Swift

[h22sparkle]

how much power u tryin to get out of it I would go with act for normal daily driving Heavy duty street/strip sprung hub disk. Or hdss it can support 270hp

[Swifty1638]

Ok, I dunno if I should replace the slave cylinder or not..I replaced the mater, and It helped a little. Yesterday, my second gear issues wherent too bad, and it seemed to shif ta lil smoother. What would cause the slave to go bad? Also, should I really replace it? I also wanna know how to do the syncromesh swap. Where can I buy it, for how much, and how do I change it? I do auto trannies all teh time at work, but manual is different..I don't think there is a dipstick for it or anything..I haven't really looked too hard (really busy lately). So, how can I do all this, and what can I expect as a result?

-A. Swift

[h22sparkle]

you should if its leaking replace it it goes bad over time to normal wear and tear do to weather and aging and stuff like that. You dont have any leaks in the lines look for wetspots on near the chasis lines and stuff like that. You can do the synchromesh swap easy. Just go to the gm (general motors) dealer and then ask them you want some synchromesh for a 5-speed transmission .


If they ask you for what kinda car dont tell em just tell thenm you want the fluid. I got into an arguement with a mechanic who asked me why would i need it if im driving a honda i think they are startin to catch on about us using this stuff . They always try to cockblock ,but anyhow it usually costs $16 for the regular synchromesh which is good but id go with the friction modified they run for $20 a pop . if you take the tire off the right side of the wheel youll see on the tranny towards the rear that there are two bolts one stickin inward and one stickin outward. The one that looks like you can stick a socket in there is the drain plug the one above it towards the back is the refill plug. you get the idea dont stop fillin it up until it overflows that means its full.

[h22sparkle]

hmm could this be a problem 4 me?

Im not gonna riff about it but lately ... my tranny has be a lil problem for me im tryin to figure out where is this going. I try to downshift to second before i hit the corner to turn if im still in motion and sometimes it doesnt wanna shift into second gear. I changed to tranny oil to synchromesh. My resevoir in my tranny fluid hasnt gone down at all and the pedal is fine. Is my synchroes on their way out supposedly? What gives?