Shiftpoint question? possible TPS sensor adjustment issue?

[Losiracer2]

Okay, I FINALLY found out why my H22A Auto has been running like a tired old dog lately, b/c I was using one accord injector and 3 prelude ones...so that caused my car to idle weird, start weird, not have full power and make me run a slow as hell 16.3 in the 1/4 mile.

Anyways...I'm having another weird issue. And that's my shiftpoint. It seems to shift only at 6-6200RPM when going from 1-2 but shifts fine where it should at 7200RPM going from 2-3 and 3-4. I have my timing set right, 17* BTC...checked w/ a timing light but the thing is...when I was trying to figure out my aforementioned issues before I concluded it was the injectors...i messed w/ my TPS sensor. yeah bad idea....

Now, I adjusted it but I can't get it to go to what Honda recommends which is .45 or .5 at idle and 4.5v at WOT. I got the idle for the TPS set right, but when I go WOT, it only goes to 4.31 volts...so you think that this low voltage reading is causing my car not to shift where its supposed to at 7200RPM? One of my wires was frayed...the Red/Blk on the TPS, so i cut and spliced a replacement from my old F22 harness into there that is slightly longer....would that cause any interference for the TPS? shit this is driving me crazy...

Facts:
-I'm using a P0F TCM, so it does shift at 7200 normally
-Timing is set perfect
-injectors are all matching
-I tried this w/ BOTH my Manual P13 ECU and my Automatic P13 and it does the same for both

I'm getting a correct AT P13 ECU sent to me, since my Auto one has this weird traction control plug, so 4 plugs instead of 3, which causes an irritating Code 36 CEL all the time.

[blazen_accord]

an CEL possible might trigger the ECU limp mode which dump massive fuel and retrict your rev to around 6000rpm. since you are getting an cel light get it mostlikely it, but u can also get a a/f meter if your a/f ratio is around 12:1(rich) when normal driving and can't rev pass 6200rpm then yes the ECU is in limp mode.

[Losiracer2]

an CEL possible might trigger the ECU limp mode which dump massive fuel and retrict your rev to around 6000rpm. since you are getting an cel light get it mostlikely it, but u can also get a a/f meter if your a/f ratio is around 12:1(rich) when normal driving and can't rev pass 6200rpm then yes the ECU is in limp mode.

yeah i never thought about that....I do have a CEL for my EGR, code 12 would that affect it? but its weird that it shifts at 7200 at any gear change other than 1-2. I'm gonna try and reset my ECU and see if that does anything.

[blazen_accord]

reset the ecu, start the car and test it right away. if it the ecu/tcu you should hit redline a few time then it go into limp mode before it warmup. repull the code and see- i had code 12 EGR before too- sometime it drive normal and sometime the ecu would go into limp mode. Either way it best with no cel code.

[owequitit]

reset the ecu, start the car and test it right away. if it the ecu/tcu you should hit redline a few time then it go into limp mode before it warmup. repull the code and see- i had code 12 EGR before too- sometime it drive normal and sometime the ecu would go into limp mode. Either way it best with no cel code.

It won't go to redline if it isn't warm...

[Losiracer2]

It won't go to redline if it isn't warm...

yeah it won't even hit VTEC if the engine isn't warmed up properly

[preludeman92]

An EGR CEL won't throw the ECU into limp mode.
Are you sure the TCU is supposed to shift at redline for all shifts? I'd almost bet that it shifts a little early for the 1-2 shift on purpose. It takes time for the auto trans to shift, and if it shifts at 7200rpm the engine would probably bounce off the rev limited before it could shift because of how fast the revs climb in first gear. If it shifts a 6k-ish rpm for the 1-2 shift try putting it in another accord and see what happens. It should shift in the same place but bounce off the rev limiter for the 2-3 shift.

[d112crzy]

Are you manually shifting or are you just flooring it?

If its the latter, why? If you're revving that high, you should be manually shifting it anyways.

[PR CB7]

shouldnt he be using a p19 instead of a p0f

[C91BLX7]

If its the latter, why? If you're revving that high, you should be manually shifting it anyways.

The n00bies say thats bad

[owequitit]

The n00bies say thats bad

That is why they are n00bies, which coincidentally sounds a lot like b00bies.

[C91BLX7]

That is why they are n00bies, which coincidentally sounds a lot like b00bies.

Anyway manually shifting is easier, because you don't have to floor it to keep it from shifting which is a pain that I have.

Otherwise its like mmmmmmmMMMMB - mmmmmmmm

[Fake Thug]

That is why they are n00bies, which coincidentally sounds a lot like b00bies.

[Fake Thug]

Anyway manually shifting is easier, because you don't have to floor it to keep it from shifting which is a pain that I have.

Otherwise its like mmmmmmmMMMMB - mmmmmmmm

Interesting. I never knew that.... I haven't owned an auto since I was 19. What about downshifing an auto?

[blazen_accord]

yeah it won't even hit VTEC if the engine isn't warmed up properly

I was trying to see if ut was the ECU/TCU fault that causes low rpm shift 1-2. Yes you are correct vtec won't engage if engine is not warm up. you won't be able to redline but able to see if you can rev past 6200rpm when it does it auto shift from 1-2 before the limp mode kick in. if it not the ecu/tcu limp mode then like you say could be tps and or vss.

a bit off topic- And yes I usually manual shift 7600rpm from 1-2 to stay in vtec powerband more, and get the car moving more. Auto TCU also don't like to kick down to lower rgear if your near mph/rpm where it normally shift to next gear. say like your at 4500rpm on D4 and floor it, most time the darn TCU will wait till vtec engage and stay in d4 instead of downshift to d3, same thing if your in d3. SO downshift is a must sometime when you want max performance from your auto trans in a race, i'm not say it will not downshift to lower gear near vtec shift point, it has happen many time. It just it better for you to be in control during that important downshift to let the ECU to change it mind and stay in same gear. Warning constant high rpm downshift will reduce the life of the auto trans- but sure give you a boost in power to take the head lead when the rolling race is start.