Brake Problems

[ironhead]

OK I have been working on a 90 accord EX brakes. We changed the master cylinder because the previous owner said it was bad. Bench bled it and installed. Bled the brakes off 10 times. The pedal goes to the floor and gets better by the 3rd pump. Checked for leaks and found one, fixed it. Bled brakes 5 more times. Pedal still goes to the floor. Every time you push the pedal it makes a whoosh sound. I am at my wits end with this. Also the car sat for 2 years before I bought it.


Need help real bad.


Thanks
Ironhead

[TypeG]

brake booster might be bad also. later.

[turbo90accord]

what are you using to bleed the brake system?

[UNeeKToNy]

brake booster might be bad also. later.

what he said.

[ironhead]

brake booster might be bad also. later.

Yeah. Talked to my parts store guy who has a accord and he said the same thing. Anybody have one that works and willing to part with it?

Turbo90accord. Using a piece of 3/16 clear tubing from the bleeder to a bottle of brake fluid. Having someone pump and hold brake pedal while I crack bleeder open and closed.


Thanks to all

Ironhead

[ironhead]

OK so its been a while and we're still working on getting the damn brakes to work right. My son just got his real license and no I have to get his car to stop. So far we have replaced the master cylinder, power booster, stopped the only leak we could find, and replaced the master cylinder again just to make sure that the one we gpot wasn't bad off the shelf. Have just got in from doing that and bleeding the brakes again and re adjusting the back brakes.

The pedal still goes from nothing to something in 3 pumps. What I noticed today is that the back lines have more pressure than the fronts, maybe twice as much. And even though we have run at least a gallon of fluid through the lines the back ones show a reddish tint while the front lines show new fluid. Don't know if either of those mean anything or not but I am at a loss. Brakes just aren't that difficult but this car has me stumped.

The bleeding oreder I used was LR RF RR LF

Thanks
Ironhead

[Chrisisiced]

I doubt its your problem but I think you're bleeding order is incorrect. I thought it should be Rrear Lrear Rfront Lfront.

[ironhead]

I doubt its your problem but I think you're bleeding order is incorrect. I thought it should be Rrear Lrear Rfront Lfront.

Chiltons manual says LR RF RR LF I always bled everything in the order you said too and was surprised that it's in the order it is. Thanks though.

[JaK FRoSTWhiTE]

As per Honda, the correct way to bleed the brakes on a 90-93 Accord is :
1.-Left Rear
2.-Right Front
3.-Right Rear
4.-Left Front

[Maple50175]

you from NH? if so where?

[johnl]

Make sure that all the sliding bits in the calipers are moving freely, and that the pads are seating squarely against the rotor faces.

[ironhead]

Make sure that all the sliding bits in the calipers are moving freely, and that the pads are seating squarely against the rotor faces.

How will that help get the pedal to not go to the floor on first pump. Dont mind doing it but dont want to waste time for nothing

[PhatAccord]

Make sure that all the sliding bits in the calipers are moving freely, and that the pads are seating squarely against the rotor faces.

How will that help get the pedal to not go to the floor on first pump. Dont mind doing it but dont want to waste time for nothing

i think he meant that, you should check the calipers/pistons, and rear wheel cylinders to make sure that they are not frozen or leaking, since the car sat for awhile...

[Leung]

i thought the ABS system had to have a special machine to bleed?

[johnl]

If the caliper components are not moving freely then the piston may be causing parts of the caliper (or even the pad backing plates) to flex, causing a spongy pedal.

Don't pull it all apart, just watch the caliper and the pad clearances etc as an assistant pumps the pedal. The pads should appear to be in contact with the rotor at all times (no visible gaps), and you shouldn't be able to see anything move at all (more than the tiniest smidgin).

Another issue might be substantial tapered wear of the pad faces. This causes the pad to be in light contact with the rotor at one end but for there to be a gap between pad face and rotor at the other end of the pad. This means that as the pad pushes against the rotor the piston tilts in the cylinder and one end ofn the pad has to move a substantial (or at least significant) distance before the pad face is in full rotor contact, and this additional movement means more pedal travel...