shaking while accelerating at high rpms

[cvc7chris]

it's a steering wheel shake while reversing, and when i press the gas. when it's idle it's fairly smooth. what can it be? suspension stuff? or motor mounts? i know my front torque mount is kinda gone but i haven't seen checked the others

UPDATE:

heres a bunch of pics of under the car and the front mount. i can try to take pics of the rear moutn but it's a pita to see. the drivers side mount looks okay
and my control arms look pretty new. i do see a problem with the rack and pinion boot or w/e it's call i'm not quite sure what the hose that hooks up to it is for, but idk if that could be a cause of my vibrations or not.










can i tell it the rear mount is bad just by looking at it/taking a pic of it?
and the tranny mount i felt it and didn't feel any cracks what should i replace =\

[johnl]

Change the suspect engine stay bush. If it's not causing the problem (which it may well be), then at least you have a new bushing (which can't hurt).

[cvc7chris]

Change the suspect engine stay bush. If it's not causing the problem (which it may well be), then at least you have a new bushing (which can't hurt).

change the what?

[slammed4thgen]

change the what?

the mount silly.

[jmolina]

too funny..ops

[johnl]

change the what?

Chris,
You said: "or motor mounts? i know my front torque mount is kinda gone"

By "engine stay" I mean what I think you're calling the "torque mount". It's the pressed metal rod at the front of the engine that reacts torque loadings between the engine and front cross member.

If either of the bushes in this rod are shot (more likely the top one), then in some circumstances you may well get some large amplitude vibrations. The same is true for the rear engine mount (which is also involved with torque reactions in a way that the mounts either end of the motor / gearbox aren't).

You want to hope the rear mount is OK since it's a complete PITA to change...

[cvc7chris]

UPDATE:

heres a bunch of pics of under the car and the front mount. i can try to take pics of the rear moutn but it's a pita to see. the drivers side mount looks okay
and my control arms look pretty new. i do see a problem with the rack and pinion boot or w/e it's call i'm not quite sure what the hose that hooks up to it is for, but idk if that could be a cause of my vibrations or not.










can i tell it the rear mount is bad just by looking at it/taking a pic of it?
and the tranny mount i felt it and didn't feel any cracks what should i replace =\

"if the front torque mount might be it, it's only $32 bux or so at autozone, and whats the name of the part that looks REALLY cracked in picture #5"

[slammed4thgen]

just look at them, if they have stress cracks...fix it.

fairly straight forward guy.

[cvc7chris]

just look at them, if they have stress cracks...fix it.

fairly straight forward guy.

i see. but what about the R&P boot. what can happen since it's hose it's completely broke off and it's really greasy and old?

[cvc7chris]

what about that hose that's broken off?
how do i fix that? and what can it cause since it's broken off right now?

[johnl]

Chris,
The hose on the rack is a tube that is attached at each end to one of the rubber rack bellows (i.e. the tube is attached to both bellows), and is there to allow air pressure to equalise between each bellows.

As the rack shaft moves laterally within the rack housing it's motion causes + and - pressure changes inside the two rack bellows. The rubber tube allows these pressures to be equalised by allowing air to pas between one bellows and the other, thus preventing one bellows from being crushed by atmospheric pressure and the other bellows blowing up like a baloon.

The tube is attched to each bellows with a small plastic spigot that passes through the bellows wall. If the bellows is open to atmosphere (tube detached) then as a relative lower pressure is generated in an expanding bellows (as the rack extends the bellows) air will be drawn into the interior of the bellows. Over time dirt will get in and wear rack components.

[cvc7chris]

Chris,
The hose on the rack is a tube that is attached at each end to one of the rubber rack bellows (i.e. the tube is attached to both bellows), and is there to allow air pressure to equalise between each bellows.

As the rack shaft moves laterally within the rack housing it's motion causes + and - pressure changes inside the two rack bellows. The rubber tube allows these pressures to be equalised by allowing air to pas between one bellows and the other, thus preventing one bellows from being crushed by atmospheric pressure and the other bellows blowing up like a baloon.

The tube is attched to each bellows with a small plastic spigot that passes through the bellows wall. If the bellows is open to atmosphere (tube detached) then as a relative lower pressure is generated in an expanding bellows (as the rack extends the bellows) air will be drawn into the interior of the bellows. Over time dirt will get in and wear rack components.

i see. but do u think that's the cause of the vibrations or w/e.. and how do i fix it? is there like a kit i can buy that comes with all that? or something

[johnl]

i see. but do u think that's the cause of the vibrations or w/e..

From what you've said (rather a vague desription I'm afraid) I tend to think it more likely that the vibration is related to the engine mounts, but I've been wrong before. Does it "shake" with the vehicle is stationary as you rev the engine in neutral? If so then you should be able to see the engine shake.

You describe it as a "steering wheel shake", but is it limited only to the wheel shaking? When only the steering wheel appears to be 'shaking' it would usually be an out of balance road wheel or slack in the steering or suspension, but in these cases it would only be evident at speed.

and how do i fix it? is there like a kit i can buy that comes with all that? or something

Is either of the rubber bellows split or otherwise broken? If so then your Honda dealer will have new ones (not too pricey I would expect). If the plastic spigots are still there (and from what I can see they still are), then you can just replace the rubber tube. The tube can be routed between each side of the rack in any convenient way, so long as it doesn't get caught in any moving parts or get pinched off.

You should check the rack for wear by jacking the road wheels off the road and vigorously wiggling each of them side to side feeling / listening for any knocking or other signs of slack between components.

Ideally you'd clean the exterior up then pull back the rubber bellows to see how much dirt might have already entered the rack housing through the broken rubber tube, but actually cleaning dirt out is likely to be a fairly big job (to do properly / effectively).

If it is dirty inside the rack (and it may not be, depending on how long the tube's been broken and the conditions in which the car has been used) but still not detectably worn, then it may be more cost effective to just use it as is until some wear develops (if it does), and then replace with a good second hand rack...

Just what is and is not cost effective does tend to depend a lot on just how much of the work you're capable of doing yourself. If you aren't very knowledgable and / or mechanically inclined then I'd suggest you need to get a proffesional (or competant amateur) mechanic to have a look at your problems.

[cvc7chris]

i see..thanks man. i think i can just replace the little hose if i can figure out where it hooks up and i think it's the mounts too i mean it's when i reverse it just shakes alot, (the whole car) and while accelerating and everthing. imma just replace the mounts (the cracked ones) and fix the suspension problems and rotate the front wheels to the back see if that helps it ..

thanks