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**Tnwagn** · 07-21-2009, 09:21 PM

If I'm remembering correctly, it's the little black box that usually craps out. This gives a non-signal to the instrument cluster, which then says you have a bulb out, even when you don't. Not sure if that's your problem though, considering you say the bulb actually keeps going out.

If I were you, I'd either go to Radio Shack and get a multimeter and test each component or I'd not worry about it. Mine's on 24/7 and I don't even notice it anymore.

**PakaloloHonda** · 07-21-2009, 09:29 PM

Originally posted by Tnwagn View Post

If I'm remembering correctly, it's the little black box that usually craps out. This gives a non-signal to the instrument cluster, which then says you have a bulb out, even when you don't. Not sure if that's your problem though, considering you say the bulb actually keeps going out.

If I were you, I'd either go to Radio Shack and get a multimeter and test each component or I'd not worry about it. Mine's on 24/7 and I don't even notice it anymore.

Thanks Tn ...

Yes, the bulbs are all good, but my drivers side brake light does not light up ..
I could care less if the idiot light stayed on forever, but I need a brake light ..
I dont wanna be pulled over

I know it's something simple .. it has to be ..

Tomi

**James Matteu** · 07-21-2009, 09:57 PM

5th Gen Perspective

The Unit:

Looking at the wiring diagram for that unit in the 5th Gen, a constant voltage in series with the bulb to ground keeps the dummy light's connection with ground interupted. By loosing conductivity within a bulb (blown) the inductor looses voltage and a connection is made between ground and the dummy light. By testing the conductivity of the actual unit under several conditions, you should be able to get a better idea as to what it is supposed to be doing. I.e. if the dummy light is off, do you have voltage at the ground wire leaving the unit, and is there conductivity between the brake lamp input and the unit ground? And if the dummy light is on do you have conductivity between the brake lamp input and the unit ground? Perhaps the connection between the harness and the inductor is comprimised, you should check that as well. If the unit's inductor is faulty, I would see about soldering the part of the coil that is broken, it may be covered in epoxy resin, but it is possible that you would be able to access it with a little heat.

The Bulb:

You need to ensure the bulb is receiving voltage, if not, trace it back to the appropriate fuse. If it is receiving voltage, you need to verify you have a good ground. A poor ground could keep both the bulb and the diagnostic unit from passing current with appears to be crucial in keeping the dummy light off.

**PakaloloHonda** · 07-21-2009, 10:09 PM

Originally posted by James Matteu View Post

The Unit:

Looking at the wiring diagram for that unit in the 5th Gen, a constant voltage in series with the bulb to ground keeps the dummy light's connection with ground interupted. By loosing conductivity within a bulb (blown) the inductor looses voltage and a connection is made between ground and the dummy light. By testing the conductivity of the actual unit under several conditions, you should be able to get a better idea as to what it is supposed to be doing. I.e. if the dummy light is off, do you have voltage at the ground wire leaving the unit, and is there conductivity between the brake lamp input and the unit ground? And if the dummy light is on do you have conductivity between the brake lamp input and the unit ground? Perhaps the connection between the harness and the inductor is comprimised, you should check that as well. If the unit's inductor is faulty, I would see about soldering the part of the coil that is broken, it may be covered in epoxy resin, but it is possible that you would be able to access it with a little heat.

The Bulb:

You need to ensure the bulb is receiving voltage, if not, trace it back to the appropriate fuse. If it is receiving voltage, you need to verify you have a good ground. A poor ground could keep both the bulb and the diagnostic unit from passing current with appears to be crucial in keeping the dummy light off.

Damn James .. that all sounded like a really good analysis, but honestly, I dunno wtf it means ..
I'm a lousy electrician .. period!

There are 3 things I don't do .. brakes, electric, and plumbing .. *sigh* ..
I think I'ma have Kyle at CNC take a look at this .. it's bugging the bee jeebers outta me ..

Thanks though man ..
Tomi

**James Matteu** · 07-21-2009, 11:45 PM

The shortened version

Just think of it this way: when you hit the brake, your car sends 12V to both the dummy light and your brake lights. The 12V going to your brake lights passes through the little brown box, through the lamp and then to ground. The 12V going to the dummy light goes to your gauge cluster, to the brake malfunction indicator bulb, then to the brown box, then to ground. If your brake lights work, then voltage leaving the malfunction indicator bulb should never get to the ground; the brown box stops it. The way the brown box keeps electricity from the malfunction indicator bulb from making it to ground is by holding a switch open, a switch that can only be held open if voltage is running through the brake lamps and to ground.

It would probably be easier to start with the ground connection and check everything one step at a time, working your way back to the fuse box.

**mrvinyl33** · 07-23-2009, 04:30 PM

Do you have a factory installed OEM spolier on the car? If so, did you have it before and after the swap?

**PakaloloHonda** · 07-23-2009, 05:20 PM

Originally posted by mrvinyl33 View Post

Do you have a factory installed OEM spolier on the car? If so, did you have it before and after the swap?

Yes I do, but it's not plugged in .. yet .. I have the harness also, but waiting to get the car painted.

Tomi

**mrvinyl33** · 07-23-2009, 06:18 PM

Ok. So only the driver's side brake light does not work? There is a different stop lamp failure for the driver's side vs. the passenger side.

#29 is for the driver's side: 37540-SM4-003
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...LLIGHT+%281%29

However, there was a different sensor as part of the OEM spoiler that cut off the 3rd brake lamp. I believe one was black vs. brown. So the wiring you are using now is from the sedan trunk lid?

**PakaloloHonda** · 07-23-2009, 06:57 PM

Originally posted by mrvinyl33 View Post

Ok. So only the driver's side brake light does not work?

Yes .......

Originally posted by mrvinyl33 View Post

#29 is for the driver's side: 37540-SM4-003
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...LLIGHT+%281%29

Wow! Thanks for that .........

Originally posted by mrvinyl33 View Post

So the wiring you are using now is from the sedan trunk lid?

Well, I think so .. Alex did the electrical when he installed the coupe lid ..
If I remember correctly .. the coupe lid didn't have any components ..

It worked tho .. for a bit .. then, all of a sudden, I kept blowing bulbs ..
replaced the bulb, and a bit longer, it would blow ..
Now .. the bulb is fine .. and I get the lamp indicator on the dash ..
and still no brake light .. drivers side ..

Appreciate your help man .. thanks for that schematic too ..
edit: we used all the guts from my sedan lid .. worked fine in my seadn lid ..

Tomi

**accordaffair** · 07-23-2009, 07:22 PM

wow that sucks, I didn't know it was having problems, maybe it's getting too much juice? do you have a voltmeter?

**PakaloloHonda** · 07-23-2009, 09:03 PM

Originally posted by accordaffair View Post

wow that sucks, I didn't know it was having problems, maybe it's getting too much juice? do you have a voltmeter?

Hahaha, if I did, I wouldn't know how to use it ..

You know me Alex ... I can only find my way around a golf course ..

Thanks for chiming in tho man .. I was gonna PM you a link to this thread ..
but you helped me out so much already ..

Hey man, you gonna come out for the *east meets west* CB7 meet?
You could stay at my place for as long as you want ..
Oh and, bring your voltmeter thingy ..

Haha, I kid you man .. it would be awsome seeing you again!

I gotta take the CB7 in to Kyle (CNC Racing) I got a new alternator,
that light is on the dash too .. ug!

At that time .. I'ma have him look at this brake light thingamajigger ..

Aloha from Las Vegas!

Tomi

**accordaffair** · 07-24-2009, 06:30 PM

i'd love to visit the west, I hear it's the best

one day i will, one day when i have some money

**PakaloloHonda** · 07-24-2009, 07:08 PM

Originally posted by accordaffair View Post

i'd love to visit the west, I hear it's the best

one day i will, one day when i have some money

You don't need no money man .. it'll be a cheap drive across the country ..
I forget, but I think it all came to about 150 bucks in petrol from Florida to Vegas ..
Besides .. I got a nice new home, and you're welcome to stay as long as you like ..
Besides, you could help me sort this bull shit out .. LOL!

I just got the alternator courtesy of UPS and Stoner51, (a CB7 member)
and I'll be gettin a-hold of Kyle over at CNC sometime early next week ..

C'mon man .. get over here .. it's gonna be a record amount of CB7's
and we're gonna have a blast ..

It ain't till January 30th anyway .. lots a time to save some mulla ..

Tomi

**accordaffair** · 07-24-2009, 08:49 PM

hmmm, its tempting if I can sell my cb like I've been trying to, I'd have some money to get there, only bummer is my crx has no cruise control

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