A few car issues

[Darkcloud]

Valve noise isn't a problem in itself, some 'ticking' / 'tapping' / 'slapping' is normal and does no damage. I'd be happier if my clearances were on the loose side (within reason) rather than too tight.

The clearances are specified by Honda for a good reason, and even though there wil be some margin for error it is unwise to second guess Honda's extensive research in this area. You never want to run with no margin for error...

Your friends may well not have had any problems from running very tight valve clearances, or, they may have problems they are unaware of, or they may be yet to encounter a problem, or may be yet to suffer the consequences of problems of which they are still unaware...

When the valve gets hot it gets longer, and the hotter it gets the longer it gets. If the cold clearance is too tight then you run the risk of the hot clearance closing up to zero or even zero minus, in which case the cam's base circle will be holding the valve very slightly open.

If so then this would result in some loss of compression on the compression stroke and sealing on the power stroke. This may not be enough to stop the cylinder firing, but enough to affect it's power output. This condition may (or may not) only exist when the valve is at it's hottest (and longest), say when the engine is at max torque output, but not when the engine is just lazing along. If so then max power may be somewhat reduced...

Additionally, if the exhaust valve doesn't seat properly it will be unable to lose as much heat (by conduction) into the much cooler metal of the cylinder head. This is very important because the very hot exhaust gasses heat the valve very substantially as they pass by the open valve head, and the valve seat is the major pathway by which the valve rids itself of this heat (when the valve is shut).

If the valve fails to seat properly, then this will result in the valve getting very hot, possibly to the point of glowing red hot (which can cause pre-ignition), and, if the valve gets hot enough for long enough (or hot enough enough times) the valve face may 'burn', which detroys compresion etc.

But, you can be lucky and get away with it...



I very much doubt it.



Worn oil pump or worn bearings.

Why do you think the engine "lacks" oil pressure? What do you mean by "lack of"? Do you have an OP guage? Have you had it checked with an OP guage? If you have an OP guage that's reading low, first thing to check is that the guage is functioning correctly...

I do understand what you're saying about the valve clearence, but before I re-did it I searched and some people on here do have there clearence that tight as well and I did look in other honda forums as well they said that it's okay to run them a lil tighter plus it was in a chiltons manual as well.

I don't have OP gauge but when I do look under the valve cover I noticed that the head doesn't have enough oil my, oil light does come on, another reason why I think its lack of oil pressure is because I just put oil in the night before I didn't go any where becaus my car is not registered yet the next day I sarted it let run for like 10mins was checking for leaks the oil light came on I turned it off checked my oil level and it was good. I looked under the valve cover and noticed that my fresh brown oil I put in the nite before look like a greenish grey, my oil filter took a shit on me, so now Ihave to buy some engine flush and flush out the old oil,but I will do a test to see if my oil pump is in fact worn out. I'll keep u guys posted

[johnl]

I do understand what you're saying about the valve clearence, but before I re-did it I searched and some people on here do have there clearence that tight as well and I did look in other honda forums as well they said that it's okay to run them a lil tighter plus it was in a chiltons manual as well.

I still don't see any need to run tighter than spec clearances. It will result in the valve opening earlier / closing later / lifting higher, but not nearly enough to make any difference.

I don't have OP gauge but when I do look under the valve cover I noticed that the head doesn't have enough oil my,
oil light does come on,

Under what circumstances does the OP light come on?

I'm not sure what you mean by "enough oil under the valve cover", but there shouldn't be much (most importantly the cam lobes and cam followers / faces should be wet with oil).

You might want to run the engine with the oil filler cap removed, you should get some oil droplets being expelled (hot engine oil would show this best). If you are seeing oil droplets expelled from the open filler orifice then I'd say you are most, probably getting enough oil to the valve gear (the oil is pumped into the rocker arm shaft to directly lube the plain bearings in the rockers, oil then trickles / mists onto the cam lobes and valve tips). If not then maybe take the rocker cover off and run the engine, looking for oil being expelled from around the rocker bearings (this should make a substantial oily mess, if not then you probaly have a problem...).

another reason why I think its lack of oil pressure is because I just put oil in the night before I didn't go any where becaus my car is not registered yet the next day I sarted it let run for like 10mins was checking for leaks the oil light came on I turned it off checked my oil level and it was good.

Did it make any rattling or clattery noises? If the pump isn't pumping oil to the bearings they get quite noisy very quickly.

I looked under the valve cover and noticed that my fresh brown oil I put in the nite before look like a greenish grey,

"Greenish grey"?? That is certainly strange and suggests contamination of some sort. Contamination that discolours the oil is usually caused by mixing with coolant, but this results in a creamy froth...

my oil filter took a shit on me,

?

so now Ihave to buy some engine flush and flush out the old oil,but I will do a test to see if my oil pump is in fact worn out. I'll keep u guys posted

Have the OP tested with a guage. Actual low OP (as opposed to the guage reading low / zero due to being faulty) is typically caused by worn out bearings, but a failed pump is certainly possible.

[Darkcloud]

The greenish grey was due to the oil filter being ripped up by metal fragments when my came shaft had snapped and the cam chewed up the cam journals.

Pick was taken in march

[johnl]

The greenish grey was due to the oil filter being ripped up by metal fragments when my came shaft had snapped and the cam chewed up the cam journals.

I suspect it's quite possible that the low oil pressure is being caused by debris from the shredded filtering media (usually paper) clogging the inlet side of the oil pump, making it harder to draw oil into the pump.

My advice is to drop the sump and check the screen on the oil pick-up. If this is clogged then clean it. Ideally I think the pump should be removed and thoroughly cleaned, but the problem may just be the inlet screen.

There is also the rather worrying possibility that pressurised oil passages in the engine might be clogged with debris. If so then this will at least diminish flow through any affected passageway, and at worst block it completely. This would obviously not be good...

[Darkcloud]

Fixed my prob. oil filter was done.

[johnl]

Fixed my prob. oil filter was done.

Quite likely choked with the remnants of your previous filter...

[Darkcloud]

Okay for some reason my car can't rev past 3.5k rpms and its pissing me off.

I change ecus and it still does it. it idles fine and drives smooth but I can't go past 3.5k rpms what the heel is wrong here.