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    Attempt at lowering engine bay temps

    I have a reason to believe that the heat in the engine bay is killing the electrical modules. So far in 5 years, ive gone through 3 ICM's, one coil and one fuel injector resistor box.

    car runs good, never overheats and fan comes on every once in a while so i know it works.

    Suggestions:
    -lower thermo fan switch
    -isolating the coil away from the distributor ie: going to external coil
    -running a vent tube to cool the distributor
    -hood stand off (i know a lot of people dont like this but i guess it is better than being on the side of the highway with a no start)
    -custom phenolic gasket for the distributor
    I <3 G60.

    0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

    #2
    vents in the bumper coupled with vents in the hood? could custom do them

    *sigh...or do the hood mod...would be faster/easier and effective

    custom "soda can" heat shields maybe?

    move electrical boxes?

    I know...re-connect a/c...run all a/c vents into engine bay to blow on boxes
    ____

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by wed3k View Post
      I have a reason to believe that the heat in the engine bay is killing the electrical modules. So far in 5 years, ive gone through 3 ICM's, one coil and one fuel injector resistor box.

      car runs good, never overheats and fan comes on every once in a while so i know it works.

      Suggestions:
      -lower thermo fan switch
      -isolating the coil away from the distributor ie: going to external coil
      -running a vent tube to cool the distributor
      -hood stand off (i know a lot of people dont like this but i guess it is better than being on the side of the highway with a no start)
      -custom phenolic gasket for the distributor

      Just convert it to an external aftermarket coil blaster, easier and everything. They are only 30 bucks. All your worries go away.
      What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.

      You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!

      Retro!

      Hater

      I love nooBs...They make me look good

      Comment


        #4
        yea im about to do that, just need a couple more dollars. (trying to get tires at the same time doesnt help)
        I <3 G60.

        0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

        Comment


          #5
          92-93 comes with external coil right, i know my lx has one. But if we went to a MSD blaster coil, we would still need the ICM right?

          Comment


            #6
            lol, any car needs an ICM otherwise it wouldnt know when to fire.
            I <3 G60.

            0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

            Comment


              #7
              thats what i figured, just wondering how changing the coil, will help anything in this scenario, other than having a better coil, that might hold up to the heat better than oem

              Comment


                #8
                Have you tried wrapping up the exhaust manifold/header? Thats the number one cause of heat in the engine bay.

                Comment


                  #9
                  putting on a header wrap does help with under hood temps. i pop the hood after a run and theres a CRAP load less heat coming from under there. i think i can actually feel the car accelerate smoother after i wrapped it.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by 93.4dr.22A1 View Post
                    92-93 comes with external coil right, i know my lx has one. But if we went to a MSD blaster coil, we would still need the ICM right?
                    kinda, the crank sensor sends a signal to the ICM to turn off and then fire its secondarys.

                    basically if you do the external style or a add on coil, it will be the same thing. It will recieve a signal and when the signal shuts off it will shoot a spark to the spark plugs.

                    Getting it out from under there and mounting a new one will help him, even though I never had the issue myself unless he is using cheaper non oem ICMs.
                    What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.

                    You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!

                    Retro!

                    Hater

                    I love nooBs...They make me look good

                    Comment


                      #11
                      header wrap or hood stand off or both.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        One important thing that people often forget is the thermal paste that goes between the distributor housing and the ICM. It's exactly like a CPU and a heatsink, it needs a good transfer medium to fill in the gaps. This helps cool the ICM. Most people I know that have replaced ICMs neglect to use the paste included with it. I'm 99% sure that this leads to an earlier failure of the unit.
                        Originally posted by sweet91accord
                        if aredy time i need to put something in cb7tuner. you guy need to me a smart ass about and bust on my spelling,gramar and shit like that in so sorry.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          The hood standoff is fine with me, it actually serves a purpose.
                          Maybe you could wrap your icm with something?? Im not sure, I wonder why its so hot under your hood versus like mine?

                          Comment


                            #14
                            get a 10 or 12" slim fan and hook it up to a switch. it will make a big difference.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Yes - wrapping the header drastically lowered engine bay temps for me.

                              Comment

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