H23 Intake manifold swap : 95% done!

[cokinut]

So everyone, i just wanted to officially say that the H23 intake manifold swaps right on to our block. All brackets, vacuum lines, IM bracket, line up. all sensors (egr, iat) fit perfect. the H23 TB does not fit the F22 IM. the only rerouting that needs to be done is the coolant lines, which isn't hard by any means. the air starting vavle is moved and the fitv (under the tb now) is also moved. I haven't kept up with the site in a while, but i just wanted to say I'm one of the first, if not the first, person to do the h23 swap. yay!

the only thing left that i need to do is set my TPS sensor, fill up the radiator, hook up the battery, and start the car.

I'm doing a write up on it as we speak. i didn't get a chance to take pix 'cause i had to haul ass to get my car finished before school started (the next morning).

[too.slow.CB7]

let me know if you can tell a big power distance.... i could probably get one for close to free.... -justin-

[phatdoughnut]

i knew the h23 TB didnt fit the F series, but why do people say they use the F one on the h22? im so confused about that one.

[NutBucket]

AFAIK the only reason to use the Accord TB is because the map sensor on 5th gens is mounted on the TB. Otherwise, the only reason I can see if having a broken sensor or nipple on the H TB.

[HondaFan81]

I know that the H22 and H23 share the same TB and intake plenums. I knew about no fit situation as well. The H23 TB is 2mm larger then the F22a1/a4/a6 TB's.

Cokinut you got PM. Also, are you planning on getting the IAB solenoid and hooking the system up properly so it's controlled by the PT6 ECU you have? If you hook it up, reset your ECU.

[cokinut]

i know we had a discussion about interchanging f22 and h23 parts, but i was just confirming what i've read (thanks a lot to hondafan81).

As for the IAB solenoid, i have yet to get one and don't have the money right now. i'm just gonna run the vacuum line for right now.


as for the tps, this is right, right?

You have to use a voltmeter to set the Throttle Position Sensor, the TPS sends a voltage signal to the computer to tell it how far open the throttle is. If it isn't set properly then the TPS will send the wrong voltage to the ECU when the throttle is closed, creating a bad idle.

To fix this you need it sending the right voltage when the throttle is closed.
There will be three wires going to the TPS.

The Green one is a ground
The yellow one is constant 5V
The red one fluctuates between 0 and 5V depending on how open or closed the throttle is.

You need to connect the voltmeter to the ground wire and the other one to the fluctuating wire by exposing some of the wires. Loosen the screws and shift the TPS around until it gives a voltage of 0.45 Volts when the throttle is CLOSED. It doesn't matter what it says at open throttle.

The harness must be plugged into the TPS which must be attached to the TB, therefore it is much easier to do this with the TB removed.

If you need to adjust the TPS, loosen the two small bolts holding it on and turn it either way until it gives the correct voltage. Some TPS's are attached with rivets instead, in this case you will need to use a Dremel tool or similar to remove it. If there are rivets holding it it is most likely still set from the factory and will not need setting.

If you need to adjust you idle, turn the idle adjustment screw with a flat blade screwdriver. If the screw is loose you may need some silicon to hold it still like I have.

[phatdoughnut]

yup that is it.

[Boost_Lee]

lookin good Les, would u happen to know if taking off the butterfly plate is a good idea? The shop doin my swap offered to do that..said it would be good? lemme know and sorry for the thread jack....now u need pics!

[cokinut]

from what i've read, there is a reason our cars have the butterflies. at low rpm, only 4 runners are open - that equates to smaller volume, but better velocity = good low end. Now when the rpms get up there, the butterflies open and more air enters = good high end power. (someone state it better for me...haha.). basically, if you don't have those runners, your low end will suffer.



As far as the progress goes, i haven't had a chance to test the TPS yet, BUT i did encounter a problem. LEAKING FUEL RAIL!!!! boooooooooooooooooo. besides needing new gaskets, can anyone tell me the torque specs for the fuel rail? FPR and the 3 bolts.

[cokinut]

01.17.05 | I'M officially done with the swap. i took the extra time to set my TPS and hooked everything back up around 11:30 PM (20 deg weather). dont laugh but it took me a week. and that includes 5 days of school. So it actually took me about 4 full days. 1 day cleaning and adjusting everything to specs | 1 day taking apart the old mani | 1 day installing new h23 manifold only to find out my injectors were leaking | 1 day getting new seals, setting new tps sensor, changing out throttle rotor. I just don't see how everyone can get it done in 4 hours. i guess that's if you didn't run into every single problem like i did.

Overall impression: I'm not running an IAB YET. I do notice my low end being sacrificed, not much, but i can tell. But once my RPM's hit about 3.5K, the power picks up nicely and the car pulls thru all the gears (i have an auto). definately worth the money i put into it. Next i'll buy the IAB valve and set that up.

i'm so happy right now. hahah. i feel like a little kid.

[cokinut]

Here's the Link to the DIY thread for the H23 Intake manifold

56K'ers will die.

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...d=1#post169969