cel: code 23, wtf??

[souldoubt]

pulled my codes from my ecu, (p14) h23 ecu.
got a code #23 what the hell is that?

i'm thinking its a code 1 (o2 sens) and code 13 (map sens)
i have no drivabilty problems. just the cel after warm-up

[phatdoughnut]

23-----KS (Knock Sensor) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
* invalid code for V6 engine

eh

[souldoubt]

dammit! why don't i remember that. thanks phat.

[phatdoughnut]

thats what im here for, even though vtec is running through my blood now... :P

[souldoubt]

well. i've got a new sensor, maybe i'll change the location. is their a way to test these?

[phatdoughnut]

where do you have it? it has to be physically screwed into the block somewhere..

[BustedLX]

It should be left in it's stock location and wired with a shielded wire. Ground the shielding to the ECU's ground.

[souldoubt]

in the head, next to dizzy. i've had it their since install w/ no problems. the only reason i replaced it is because my first one busted in half. as far as sheilding the wire, it's covered w/ wire loom that should be good. it's worked so far.

[phatdoughnut]

It should be left in it's stock location and wired with a shielded wire. Ground the shielding to the ECU's ground.

The reason we dont keep them in their stock spot, is because f22bs dont come with KS, and if we run the p14 we get the CEL for the KS, so we ahve to rig one up..

[souldoubt]

update.
fixed the problem, seems the new knock sensor was overly sensitive. what i did, i shimmed it back from the block, and wrapped it heavily in teflon tape. did the trick.

[BustedLX]

If you don't run it in the center of the head then the sensor cannot acurately detect the harmonics of pinging. So if you are just intrested in killing the cel why not install it next the the ECU? It's not doing a damn thing on the side of the head.

The reason you must run a knock sensor with a shielded wire is because a knock sensor is a piezo crystal that generates voltage when certain harmonic frequencies are applied.

Since the sensor generates it's own voltage and is a small amount of voltage at that any elctronic interferences from the vehicles electrical system will bleed into the non-shielded wire giving a false positive signal the ECU's knock-board. That's why it must be shielded to keep the unwanted voltage out and only allow the actual signal from the sensor to be seen.

[souldoubt]

for what ever reason the ecu needs the sensor to be on the engine, i've treid putting it in several places including in the car w/ a ground. doesn't work, so far so good. if it thows a cel, i'll put a nut on the block and be done.

i've got it mounted on the head, between the dizzy ,on the edge of the head. it had a lift point or accessory hole there, i drilled and tapped it. simmilar to what phat did to his, just on the other side.

[phatdoughnut]

for what ever reason the ecu needs the sensor to be on the engine, i've treid putting it in several places including in the car w/ a ground. doesn't work, so far so good. if it thows a cel, i'll put a nut on the block and be done.

i've got it mounted on the head, between the dizzy ,on the edge of the head. it had a lift point or accessory hole there, i drilled and tapped it. simmilar to what phat did to his, just on the other side.

exactly, ive tried everything too, and for the same weird reason, it has to be somewhere on the motor.

[darkslide_77]

see now, in every swap ive ever seen where you have to drill and tap for a knock sensor, they always do it on the back of the block, near the oil filter......seems that there is a blank there just for that purpose(or so i have seen and heard)....yeah phat.....i guess that is why everyone puts it there

[phatdoughnut]

there is a blank there? i didnt even know. i didnt even know in swap threads they told you to tap and screw in a knock sensor.

The reason i didnt stick it back there, was because 1. my motor was in the car, there for pretty damn difficult to get to and drill and tap. 2. knock sensors go bad quite a bit, and i didnt want it to be in a difficult part to change, which if youve ever taken a knock sensor out, you know its pretty damn difficult, unless the engine is out of the car.

3. the knock sensor wasnt doing shit, it was just there to dummy the damn CEL on the p14...