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cel: code 23, wtf??

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    #16
    yeah bro....ill have to see if i can find the pic in the article i saw it in and scan it in for ya.......should help a bit

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      #17
      help a bit with what? we have no problems what so ever.
      H22 Prelude VTEC 92-96 200 161 10.6:1 87 90 DOHC VTEC 2157 JDM

      190.3whp 155 wtq - with bolt ons, and a dc header

      ET=14.457 @ 94mph w/ 2.173 60Fter

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        #18
        nevermind....i guess i misunderstood your last statement..........was gonnna show you where that blank is, but if you dont need it........

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          #19
          *update*
          seems my problem came back...i rewired the knocksenor all the way to the ecu, replaced the pin @ D3. checked the sensor via multi-meter, it had no big spikes in the reading. i talk to my buddy who's a honda tech, said the readings were inline.

          we've come to the conclusion the knock board in the ecu is bad.**shit** that sucks.
          guess i'll swap in my old ecu.(for now)
          Last edited by souldoubt; 02-12-2005, 09:49 AM.

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            #20
            If you have the sensor mounted in Teflon tape then the sensor can not acurately ground it's body to ground. The sensor outputs it's ground threw the engine block and the positive out of the one pin.

            Why don't you try ground the body of the sensor to the block.
            My unupdate website Speedworx-online.com, lol. <click here>.

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              #21
              i know, how the knock sensor sends signal to computer.i thaught the teflon was the problem, but when i shimmed it, i did it w/ copper washers. thats a good ground. if not, it should've been. i'm going to try a 1 last thing, than i say *kcuf* it. swap in the original ecu untill i can get a p39 or p58.
              any thaughts on a better (than oe) ecu thats easier to find?

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                #22
                what about a dirrect ground to the neg. side of the battery?
                *update* tried and did'nt work.
                Last edited by souldoubt; 02-14-2005, 02:54 PM.

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                  #23
                  Maybe you could try a P74 or P75 from the B18B1? I don't know how it would run exactly but it is for a DOHC non-Vtec engine with no knock.

                  Grounding the sensor directly to the battery shouldn't be neccessary. The ECU is grounded at the engine block on the thremostat housing.so the Sensor and the ECU will share a common ground, then the shielding of the knock is grounded to the ECU's ground at the ECU plugs completing an effective shield using the common ground.

                  I don't think grounding the sensor directly to the negative battery terminal will help but it's worth a try. You might actually have a bad knock sensor.
                  My unupdate website Speedworx-online.com, lol. <click here>.

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                    #24
                    alright. i'm going nuts. i've done everything short of swapping in the old lx ecu. any suggestions on how to test the sensor? i've look around, all ican find is what i already knew. "some resistance will be present." wtf? how much is good? how much is bad?

                    busted, as far as p74/p75 swap, you don't think it'll make the motor run too lean? i'm afraid it will.

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by cb9h23
                      alright. i'm going nuts. i've done everything short of swapping in the old lx ecu. any suggestions on how to test the sensor? i've look around, all ican find is what i already knew. "some resistance will be present." wtf? how much is good? how much is bad?

                      busted, as far as p74/p75 swap, you don't think it'll make the motor run too lean? i'm afraid it will.
                      Well the sensor is a piezo crystal there really is no way to test it.

                      About the P74/75 there is no real way to know unless you slap it on there with a wide band. In theory in closed loop it shouldn't run the car lean at all but when it switches into open loop (80%+ throttle) it could run lean and it could not. You would need a wide band to know for sure. But honestly fuel isn't what you should be worried about its timing that you should be concerned with. It may run a slightly more advanced timing table then your larger F22B. But then again that might actually feel pretty good, you'll need to run super for sure though.
                      My unupdate website Speedworx-online.com, lol. <click here>.

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                        #26
                        well i bid on 1 on egay. so we'll see. as far as fuel, i always run 91 minimum. 93 when warmer.
                        i'm done messing w/ the knock. going to run the pt3 untill i get a p75. guess i'll be the lab monkey.
                        Last edited by souldoubt; 02-14-2005, 07:10 PM.

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                          #27
                          I drove without a ks for 3 months. It i only lagged before VTEC. And its not that hard to put in while you are changing the oil, When you take the filter out the whole is right above the filter.

                          edit: lagged before vtec not in vtec
                          Last edited by Sho Nuff; 02-14-2005, 08:46 PM.

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by Sho Nuff
                            I drove without a ks for 3 months. It i only lagged while i was in VTEC. And its not that hard to put in while you are changing the oil, When you take the filter out the whole is right above the filter.
                            word....thats what i was talking about earlier

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                              #29
                              Well the reason it only lagged before Vtec is because the ECU only refrences the knock sensor below 5000 rpm.

                              However in Cb9's case there is no Vtec because he isn't running a Vtec engine.
                              My unupdate website Speedworx-online.com, lol. <click here>.

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                                #30
                                also i had it installed (knock sensor). just sick of the recent cel caused by it.

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