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    Head Removal

    Is there a DIY on it? I cant find one.. Need a little help haha I got the valve cover off and now im just wondering what do I do next? Is it even possible to take the head off while the motor is still in the car? My Haynes manual says to do it while its out.
    -Will


    #2
    begin by unbolting the exhaust manifold, intake manifold and distributor. remove the radiator hoses and the one heater hose.

    are you trying to change the timing belt or leave it? that determines the next few steps.
    I <3 G60.

    0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

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      #3
      Set your engine at tdc then you have to mark your timing. As in your crank pulley, water pump etc. Loosen the tension on the timing belt and that should let the cam gear(s) loose. Remove the cam caps as specified in the Haynes manual. Remove cam and you should be able to see the head bolts. Remove the head bolts as specified in the haynes manual and VUA LA.

      I did skip a few steps but that was just drain coolant

      Also you must remove the tension from the driver side motor mount by jacking up the engine a bit and remove that mount to get to the timing belt with out removing your engine.

      Sorry if I am unclear.

      Rip It Up
      Sold to: nightime25, MyDianaz06, Accord214 and 408cb7

      Bought from:Rob_is_Legend, MonoCB7, Fatboy1185, Flatline and busak87

      i vouch for my Brothas

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        #4
        Originally posted by wed3k View Post
        are you trying to change the timing belt or leave it? that determines the next few steps.
        Yeah Woops forgot to mention this as well

        Rip It Up
        Sold to: nightime25, MyDianaz06, Accord214 and 408cb7

        Bought from:Rob_is_Legend, MonoCB7, Fatboy1185, Flatline and busak87

        i vouch for my Brothas

        Comment


          #5
          what's the reason why you want to take the head off for? hell i just got done rebuilding my entire valve train for my white cb7.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by wed3k View Post
            begin by unbolting the exhaust manifold, intake manifold and distributor. remove the radiator hoses and the one heater hose.

            are you trying to change the timing belt or leave it? that determines the next few steps.
            I dont know how old the belt is. So yea I guess I should change out the timing belt but knowing me I might procrastinate and just want the damn thing running and use the old belt.


            Originally posted by Extacee View Post
            Set your engine at tdc then you have to mark your timing. As in your crank pulley, water pump etc. Loosen the tension on the timing belt and that should let the cam gear(s) loose. Remove the cam caps as specified in the Haynes manual. Remove cam and you should be able to see the head bolts. Remove the head bolts as specified in the haynes manual and VUA LA.

            I did skip a few steps but that was just drain coolant

            Also you must remove the tension from the driver side motor mount by jacking up the engine a bit and remove that mount to get to the timing belt with out removing your engine.

            Sorry if I am unclear.
            Ok. I got that. Thanks. Anything else? I heard theres special studs that I have to replace after I remove the head... What are they talking about?


            Originally posted by UNeeKToNy View Post
            what's the reason why you want to take the head off for? hell i just got done rebuilding my entire valve train for my white cb7.
            Burnt valve. Runs on 3 cylinders till compression builds up enough to force the valve to work.
            -Will

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              #7
              drain rad, remove radiator hoses. unbolt valve cover, ps pump, alt, unbolt bracket from im mani to block. my not be the best way but unbolt cam gear, pull timing belt off, bolt cam gear on how it came off. unbolt downpipe and headers. take 8 head studs out. pull head off.

              not too hard just takes awhile doing it the first time. i took to midas to have them time it, i was only 1 or 2 degrees off which is within oem specs

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Bullhorn7 View Post
                Ok. I got that. Thanks. Anything else? I heard theres special studs that I have to replace after I remove the head... What are they talking about?
                They are called head studs

                Rip It Up
                Sold to: nightime25, MyDianaz06, Accord214 and 408cb7

                Bought from:Rob_is_Legend, MonoCB7, Fatboy1185, Flatline and busak87

                i vouch for my Brothas

                Comment


                  #9
                  i wouldnt replace them if you dont have to but everyone else on the forum is going to recommend it.
                  I <3 G60.

                  0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    It's recommended that you replace the head studs. And keep track of them, the number 2 (stud in the middle, closest to the firewall) is longer than the others. And remember the torque sequence and specs.

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