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    #1

    Brake light issue

    I am noticing a very strange problem lately. First off my car is a 92 LX 5 speed. What seems to be happening is when I start the car my brake light comes on, but when I put the clutch in the brake light goes off. When I let the clutch back out the brake light starts out very dim and then as I accelerate the brake light get brighter, but no matter my speed when I put the clutch back in the light goes out. I am referring to brake light near the speedo, not the brake lamp indicator. I have checked my brake fluid and it seems to be fine. I am baffled about what might cause this issue. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.


    Originally posted by HardInThePaint
    WTF, thats like placing the cheese underneath the beef patty and calling it a burgercheese. Regardless of how u slice it the shit is a cheeseburger.
    Tags: None
    #2
    Originally posted by A Zombies Minge View Post
    I am noticing a very strange problem lately. First off my car is a 92 LX 5 speed. What seems to be happening is when I start the car my brake light comes on, but when I put the clutch in the brake light goes off. When I let the clutch back out the brake light starts out very dim and then as I accelerate the brake light get brighter, but no matter my speed when I put the clutch back in the light goes out. I am referring to brake light near the speedo, not the brake lamp indicator. I have checked my brake fluid and it seems to be fine. I am baffled about what might cause this issue. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
    maybe the clutch reservoir?? some1 will come and save the day lol

    Comment

      #3
      Clutch reservoir is full. Going to check the pads and such today, but still need some advice on what else to look for....


      Originally posted by HardInThePaint
      WTF, thats like placing the cheese underneath the beef patty and calling it a burgercheese. Regardless of how u slice it the shit is a cheeseburger.

      Comment

        #4
        Bad bread board? Voltage bleeding into the Brake Indicator Circuit from the VSS Input?
        1997 Honda Accord EX-V6:
        C27A4 - 2.7-liter 90º-V6 with SOHC, 24-valves, PGM-Fi
        MPZA - Electronically controlled 4-speed automatic, 1 reverse
        ~170 cu. in. / ~170 ft. lbs. / ~170 whp

        Originally posted by James Matteu
        You have to consider the results of your test in an objective manner, or as the country folk like to say, "son, you gotta be smarter than what you're workin' with."

        Comment

          #5
          Originally posted by James Matteu View Post
          Bad bread board? Voltage bleeding into the Brake Indicator Circuit from the VSS Input?
          Bread board? How would I check for something like that ??


          Originally posted by HardInThePaint
          WTF, thats like placing the cheese underneath the beef patty and calling it a burgercheese. Regardless of how u slice it the shit is a cheeseburger.

          Comment

            #6
            Visual inspection. I helped a buddy out the other day and found the remnants of an hack job: solder everywhere, burn marks, enamel peeling off. If you take a look and arent sure if its good or bad, take a good picture of them and post it here.
            1997 Honda Accord EX-V6:
            C27A4 - 2.7-liter 90º-V6 with SOHC, 24-valves, PGM-Fi
            MPZA - Electronically controlled 4-speed automatic, 1 reverse
            ~170 cu. in. / ~170 ft. lbs. / ~170 whp

            Originally posted by James Matteu
            You have to consider the results of your test in an objective manner, or as the country folk like to say, "son, you gotta be smarter than what you're workin' with."

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by James Matteu View Post
              Visual inspection. I helped a buddy out the other day and found the remnants of an hack job: solder everywhere, burn marks, enamel peeling off. If you take a look and arent sure if its good or bad, take a good picture of them and post it here.
              Where do I find them ?


              Originally posted by HardInThePaint
              WTF, thats like placing the cheese underneath the beef patty and calling it a burgercheese. Regardless of how u slice it the shit is a cheeseburger.

              Comment

                #8
                I'm refering to the circuit boards inside the Gauge Cluster. The circuit board is what I'm suggesting you inspect. You will have to remove the cluster and dismantle it in order to conduct a proper inspection.
                1997 Honda Accord EX-V6:
                C27A4 - 2.7-liter 90º-V6 with SOHC, 24-valves, PGM-Fi
                MPZA - Electronically controlled 4-speed automatic, 1 reverse
                ~170 cu. in. / ~170 ft. lbs. / ~170 whp

                Originally posted by James Matteu
                You have to consider the results of your test in an objective manner, or as the country folk like to say, "son, you gotta be smarter than what you're workin' with."

                Comment

                  #9
                  I will def look into that. I have also been considering clutch position sensor, since some days the just wont start. I put the clutch in, turn the key, and get nothing but lights on the dash. After shaking the car a little and pumping the hell out of the pedal it will just start right up and then not give me any problems for days.


                  Originally posted by HardInThePaint
                  WTF, thats like placing the cheese underneath the beef patty and calling it a burgercheese. Regardless of how u slice it the shit is a cheeseburger.

                  Comment

                    #10
                    I suggested an inspection of the cluster circuit board since it is a component shared by both systems: brake indicator circuit and speedometer since you mentioned the light gets brighter as you accelarate.

                    My suggestion wouldn't explain why your able to manipulate the light by applying the clutch. Inspecting the clutch switch as you suggested is a prudent move.
                    1997 Honda Accord EX-V6:
                    C27A4 - 2.7-liter 90º-V6 with SOHC, 24-valves, PGM-Fi
                    MPZA - Electronically controlled 4-speed automatic, 1 reverse
                    ~170 cu. in. / ~170 ft. lbs. / ~170 whp

                    Originally posted by James Matteu
                    You have to consider the results of your test in an objective manner, or as the country folk like to say, "son, you gotta be smarter than what you're workin' with."

                    Comment

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