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    #1

    Hard to cold start stumbles when accelerating

    Ok when tring to start cold has very rough idle for first 2 min then runs normal while accelerating lightly power curve falls off for about 2 two 350 rpms around 23oorpms too 28oorpms plugs r about 6mnths old wires n cap 2mnths rotor n coil ?? Never replaced .
    How can I rule out the coil for this problem?
    Also when the power falls, engine has apopping sound coming from the intake as if it wer coughing like a back fire but not as violent and from the intake not the exauhst.
    Last edited by super sox; 01-08-2011, 03:20 AM. Reason: Left out some details
    Better to have and not need , than to need and not have!
    Life is simple make choices and don't look back

    MRT http://cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=173251
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    #2
    Try to retell in better detail of what the problem is your car maybe experiencing, since i'm trying to figuered out what your saying or asking.

    Comment

      #3
      Speel am Gamer cheque

      Perhaps I can help, I am fluent in Cannotypese...

      Originally posted by super sox View Post
      On cold starts, the motor has a very rough idle for the first 2 minutes, then idles normally. Under light acceleration, power falls off between 2,000 to 3,500 RPMs, sometimes between 2,300 and 2,800 RPMs. The Spark Plugs are about 6 months old, Spark Plug Wires and Distributor Cap are 2 months old. The Distributor Rotor and Ignition Coil may be original.

      Question: How can I rule out the Ignition Coil for this problem?

      Another thing, when the power falls, I hear a popping sound coming from the intake as if it were coughing like a back fire but not as violent, and its from the intake not the exhaust.


      Measure the resistance across the primary and secondary windings. If anything is out of spec, replace the Ignition Coil. Even a slightly out-of-spec resistance can cause intermittent Ignition Coil failure.
      1997 Honda Accord EX-V6:
      C27A4 - 2.7-liter 90º-V6 with SOHC, 24-valves, PGM-Fi
      MPZA - Electronically controlled 4-speed automatic, 1 reverse
      ~170 cu. in. / ~170 ft. lbs. / ~170 whp

      Originally posted by James Matteu
      You have to consider the results of your test in an objective manner, or as the country folk like to say, "son, you gotta be smarter than what you're workin' with."

      Comment

        #4
        To clear things up my main? It's what things will cause our cars to idle rough hard to start and stumble threw the rpms? Im pretty sure there it's a long list but I'm a honda noob so any advice on wer I should start the symptoms are getting worse and I'm not sure were to start
        Better to have and not need , than to need and not have!
        Life is simple make choices and don't look back

        MRT http://cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=173251

        Comment

          #5
          IACV could potentially cause that. So could FITV. Or clogged EGR.

          Comment

            #6
            Originally posted by jimwards17
            I had this exact problem. First I would replace your fuel filter and make sure your ignition timing is set correctly. If that doesn't fix it next would be to make sure your oxygen sensor is working properly. Is your check engine light on? If it is that is most likely the issue. Thirdly, and what ended up fixing my problem was replacing my failing fuel pump. Check the easy things first.

            Here it's the catch no cel at all it works but is not on has and does not come on when driving our idleing the timing very has been replaced but I dont think the timing and valves we adjusted the drivers bank of the motor has more of a noticeable ticking sound than the middle and pass side I have had my valve cover off but im not sure how to adjust them our even check them for that matter! IF ITS my fuel pump can I run the 255 walboro upgrade I see members talking about on a stock motor with out causing a problem?
            Better to have and not need , than to need and not have!
            Life is simple make choices and don't look back

            MRT http://cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=173251

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by Sarthos View Post
              IACV could potentially cause that. So could FITV. Or clogged EGR.
              I've thought one of those was it too but it has only had the up down idle you get when one of those start to fail once . Buy common physics you should be able to move a cold f22 and not get the up down idle right not drivingon the road from a cold start but like parking lot manuvers just pouting it into drive and allowing it to move on its own , either way that its when I get the idle long as I wait till the temp gauge moves off the c a lil it won't do it its that IACV OR FITV SYMPTOMS
              Better to have and not need , than to need and not have!
              Life is simple make choices and don't look back

              MRT http://cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=173251

              Comment

                #8
                posted twice sorry deev
                Last edited by super sox; 01-09-2011, 09:34 AM. Reason: Pushed the button 2wice sorry
                Better to have and not need , than to need and not have!
                Life is simple make choices and don't look back

                MRT http://cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=173251

                Comment

                  #9
                  Do this:

                  1. Measure resistance across the coils primary and secondary windings.
                  2. Remove and clean your Fast Idle Thermo Valve (FITV).
                  3. Clean all EGR passages.

                  The Ignition Coil or EGR could be you CEL-less issues, as could weak spark from cheap plugs or wires, but start with the IC and EGR first. Let us know what you find.

                  The car is having idle problems while cold, this is the FITV's job, clean it.
                  1997 Honda Accord EX-V6:
                  C27A4 - 2.7-liter 90º-V6 with SOHC, 24-valves, PGM-Fi
                  MPZA - Electronically controlled 4-speed automatic, 1 reverse
                  ~170 cu. in. / ~170 ft. lbs. / ~170 whp

                  Originally posted by James Matteu
                  You have to consider the results of your test in an objective manner, or as the country folk like to say, "son, you gotta be smarter than what you're workin' with."

                  Comment

                    #10
                    any news on this?? searched a couple threads and everyone posts their problem but never what the solution was.. my cars doing this same thing, bogging/choking sound coming from intake when u hit the gas, hard to start when engine is cold, and running real rough til engine warms up.. it runs perfectly find once its warmed up...
                    Originally posted by deevergote
                    wen yous in da import seen yo, u gotta tipe lyke yous from da streetz cuz it showz dat u git mad rezpect yo. toonerz dun tipe lyke dey gotz a edjakashun cuz dat aint coo.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      I belive my problem was a head gasket as that is way I found all my problems to b associated with I'm working on the task now
                      Better to have and not need , than to need and not have!
                      Life is simple make choices and don't look back

                      MRT http://cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=173251

                      Comment

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