OMFG! So Frustrated I Can't See Straight - PLEASE HELP ME!!!

[chris_brains]

in advance - THANK YOU SO MUCH

I am so pissed I cant even see straight right now, as soon as I got my vacuum and idle problems fixed I shoot myself in the foot and now I dont know what to ******* do.

So, I have been getting cel 14 and my idle has been crap, I adjusted the fiv and then I figured out that I had (i know im an idiot) tapped a wire on the iac to use as iab source for vtec. So I fixed the idle problem, unhooked the wire from iac started the car and... perfect idle, great!!

.... until i heard some knocking, so being a dumb ass and not checking oil level as I had recently put a qt in and didn't think it could have burned up & leaked out that fast I took off the valve cover to check the rockers, which were all fine, then after getting that shit back on the head I checked the oil and was 1.5qts low....

so while the rtv is curing on the valve cover gasket I wanted to tap the right wire for the intake air bypass good intention right? well when that intention was executed by my dumb ass who then tapped the intake air sensor instead of intake air bypass it got me in a whole heap of shit.

after getting the factory manual from hondahookup (I KNOW I SHOULD HAVE DONE THAT IN THE FIRST DAMN PLACE) I finally found the right wire to tap and I tapped that wire....

so then I put the key in the ignition and notice my stereo isnt working, I check for heat coming into the stereo and have it, and my stereo fuse is good, I then notice that as I plug the harness into the stereo I hear the chime reminder for when you leave your headlights on chime once

I then look at the faceplate and see that it is pulsing every few seconds but doesnt turn on

I then notice that if I turn on my headlight switch I get no chime....

no chime, no gauge illumination and... no headlights

I then check my mil and am now getting codes 8 (tdc sens) & 20 (electronic load detector)

also, when the key is out of the ignition the temp gauge goes all the way to the top of the dial, put the key in and switch it to 'on' position it goes all the way back down, it does this with the ecu in or out of the car

So i read the shop manual and i do the diagnosis procedures for a bad eld, I tested the wire going from the eld (in underhood fusebox) to the ecu with an ohmeter and it is good, I then test voltage across the two ecu connectors (per shop manual instruction) with the headlight switch on and get no voltage, so the manual says it is a bad eld. the spec voltage is less then .5 at the 3pin eld connector and mine is getting .6 so everything is pointing at the eld....

well I've put in TWO different fuseboxs with TWO different elds and still NOTHING

WTF!!!

please please please if anyone can help me I am at my wits end and dont know what else to try, I was worried I fried my p13 ecu but it has the same problems with no ecu installed with the p13 installed and with a p0a ecu installed, also the starter doesnt kick at all when I try to start the car, no click nothing....

also when I turn on the headlight switch my auto seat belts click

please help
thank you so much
chris no-brains

[91AccordLX]

i've kind of had a problem like this before...check all the wiring that goes to the ECU, maybe you burned some wires.

because when i was putting a new radio in i somehow touched some wires together and it fried the wire all the way back to the ECU plug. which was a bitch to fix because i had to take the whole dash out to actual be able to see the wiring.

i hope you fix it

[chris_brains]

thx, so do you think I should check the coolant temp, tdc sensor and air intake sensor, first with an ohmeter at the plug and long leads to under the hood or look for physically burnt wires...??

[souldoubt]

go to a napa store and ask for a "12 volt electric short finder" it's a test light that help you find shorts in the wiring. also check ALL your grounds, including the ones to the block.

[91AccordLX]

look for physically burnt wires...

[91AccordLX]

oh and dont really worry about that TDC position sensor...that has nothing to do with this problem...but code 20, the eld. i think that is like a three pin connector that hooks into the fuse box.

[chris_brains]

the eld is built into the fusebox and is secured with a security torx key (i dont have any) so I have replaced the fuse box with two different ones with two different elds and I still get the code, do you think that my bad wire is frying elds? or maybe the bad wire is causing symptoms that are triggering false codes?

thx again

[91AccordLX]

well chris when i had some fucked up wires, my car acted NUTS, evrything electrical was going wrong, like yours...and i was always blowing the backup radio fuse(7.5) which is basically an ecu fuse, i mean i blew the fuse every single time i started the car..and i mean everytime, it never failed. so it is very possible the bad wiriding is screwing your car up...