Another Idle Problem Thread...

[Straight Success]

As usual, another idle problem thread is surfacing. I've read the other 1001+ threads concerning this issue. Now before I go on, I'm going to say, if all else fails, I'm going to the yard to get a intake manifold and work from there. However, this is a last resort.

I've checked the usual culprits. About a month and a half ago, I cleaned out my IACV with carb cleaner to get all of the carbon build up out. I've tightened down the plastic screw inside the FITV. I've closed my idle air screw down to a level where not too much or too little air is rushing in. I also bleed the coolant system, and it seemed to help a little when I first bleed it. The idle was still bouncing, but instead of bouncing between 1000-1800 rpms, it was between 800-1100 with the bleeding of the coolant system. It helped a little.

Okay, it's time for step by step of what happening. I'll start the car, and it'll idle at the normal 2500 or so on start up. As soon as the temp. is up to proper operational temp., that's when the idle starts bouncing. It bounces between 1000 and 1800, and it rarely if ever goes below 1000. I hear some hissing of air near the intake, but didn't find any vacuum leaks. I think it's the air flowing inside of the intake, because it's very faint.

I'm looking to eradicate this problem once and for all. Can you shed some advice, suggestions, fixes. Thanks in advance.

[dj_ender]

As usual, another idle problem thread is surfacing. I've read the other 1001+ threads concerning this issue. Now before I go on, I'm going to say, if all else fails, I'm going to the yard to get a intake manifold and work from there. However, this is a last resort.

I've checked the usual culprits. About a month and a half ago, I cleaned out my IACV with card cleaner to get all of the carbon build up out. I've tightened down the plastic screw inside the FITV. I've closed my idle air screw down to a level where not too much or too little air is rushing in. I also bleed the coolant system it it seemed to help a little when I first bleed it. The idle was still bouning, but instead of bouncing between 1000-1800 rpms, it was between 800-1100 with the bleeding of the coolant system. It helped a little.

Okay, it's time for step by step of what happening. I'll start the car and it'll idle at the normal 2500 or so on start up. As soon as the temp. is up to proper operational temp., that's when the idle starts bouncing. It bounces between 1000 and 1800, and it rarely if ever goes below 1000. I hear some hissing of air near the intake, but didn't find any vacuum leaks. I think it's the air flowing inside of the intake, because it's very faint.

I'm looking to eradicate this problem once and for all. Can you shed some advice, suggestions, fixes. Thanks in advance.

You can test for the vacuum leak by removing the intake tube, putting your hand over the TB and have a friend try and start the car. If it starts, you have a leak, if it doesn't it's something else. You wouldn't by chance have an auto ECU in a manual car, or vice versa? Mine acted the same way when I put an auto PT6 in my manual.

[Straight Success]

You can test for the vacuum leak by removing the intake tube, putting your hand over the TB and have a friend try and start the car. If it starts, you have a leak, if it doesn't it's something else. You wouldn't by chance have an auto ECU in a manual car, or vice versa? Mine acted the same way when I put an auto PT6 in my manual.

I don't think it does. When I purchased the car, I believe it was completely stock. I highly doubt the ECU has been changed.

I'm outside rebleeding the cooling system as we speak.

[dj_ender]

I don't think it does. When I purchased the car, I believe it was completely stock. I highly doubt the ECU has been changed.

I'm outside rebleeding the cooling system as we speak.

Check for the leak while your out there too.

[danf20bcb7]

sounds like ur thermovalve is stuck

[Straight Success]

I'm going down to the yard to see if I can find a new head for cheap. I'll clean it up good, replace any worn parts, and freshen things up. We'll see what happens.

[dj_ender]

I'm going down to the yard to see if I can find a new head for cheap. I'll clean it up good, replace any worn parts, and freshen things up. We'll see what happens.

Why are you going that far? Did you check for leaks like I described?

[Straight Success]

I noticed that my EGR posrt has been filled with some sort of apoxy. Who knows what damage is done.

Before I buy, I'm going to check every avenue one last time.

[dj_ender]

I noticed that my EGR posrt has been filled with some sort of apoxy. Who knows what damage is done.

Before I buy, I'm going to check every avenue one last time.

Drill out the epoxy and tap the holes, no need for a new head yet.

[Straight Success]

Drill out the epoxy and tap the holes, no need for a new head yet.

I can do that, but who know if it's caked up inside. I think I may just try this though, before I buy. I'll take it off next Friday after finals, and see what's the problem.

[dj_ender]

I can do that, but who know if it's caked up inside. I think I may just try this though, before I buy. I'll take it off next Friday after finals, and see what's the problem.

Im just trying to save you money, a head here costs me $54 plus a $5 core charge, then add in the HG, fluids, and other items you deem necessary. It adds up fast. For all you know, the problem will still remain with the new head.

[Jarrett]

How did you check for vacuum leaks? I just spray carb cleaner near the intake manifold. If the idle is effected then the fluid is getting in. Move closer to spray and isolate the area if you detect something.

I'm in the same boat right now. I'm just now getting this engine back together but there's a leak between the throttle body surface and manifold even with a brand new gasket.

[dj_ender]

How did you check for vacuum leaks? I just spray carb cleaner near the intake manifold. If the idle is effected then the fluid is getting in. Move closer to spray and isolate the area if you detect something.

I'm in the same boat right now. I'm just now getting this engine back together but there's a leak between the throttle body surface and manifold even with a brand new gasket.

Are all the mating surfaces clean of old gasket?

[Straight Success]

Im just trying to save you money, a head here costs me $54 plus a $5 core charge, then add in the HG, fluids, and other items you deem necessary. It adds up fast. For all you know, the problem will still remain with the new head.

I really appreciate that.

[toycar]

The hissing noise is probably the culprit. It's not normal to hear hissing, this is probably a leak from a bad gasket or a vac leak.

Carb cleaner or starting fluid works very well to detect these leaks. Spray it around suspected issue and listen closely to the idle. You'll hear the idle change, follow the noise to narrow it down.

Also, idle at 2500? Something else is giving you grief if that's happening. Start up idle should be around 1500, give or take.

Maybe try looking into you ficv and make sure its correct.

I wouldn't go jumping into a head swap to solve this issue. It's possible you fpr is being effected by the vac leak and is contributing to your issues as well.

I would start with the hissing, it seems most obvious and should be pretty easy to narrow down. Figure that out and still have the problem, look at your vac lines and your ficv.
replacing every single vac line is still less than 10 bux, easy and will give you piece of mind if you cannot figure it out.

Last resort would be to consider the intake mani gaskets being bad. I doubt this issue is head or head gaskets specific without showing other symptoms though.

Good luck man!