will this breaker bar do the job for the crank pulley bolt?

[eightyfour84]

http://www.princessauto.com/pal/prod...n.-Breaker-Bar

In Canada we have crap selection and inflated prices too so this is the best I can procure and it goes on sale Tuesday for $12:50. And it carries a lifetime warranty so if I snap it, I can just return it.

What has me worried it's only rated for 330ft/lb and they state not to put a cheater bar on it.

I also have 2 10" 1/2 drive extension I'm going to have to daisy chain, is that even long enough?

Other than that I plan to jam the flywheel with a screwdriver as described in haynes to prevent the engine from rotating.

Oh and I think I will hit it with penetrating oil (and ATF fluid/acetone, I hear this works really well) week before hand and hammer the shit too so it breaks up rust. I don't have any heat source however.



Seems like the crank bolt it the biggest pain in the but when it comes to the timing job so I was hoping I could get it right the first time with appropriate tools on standby.

[Cb_JoeyG]

No need to hammer it but i would definatly use penatrating oil on it. That breaker bar looks alot like my snap-on breaker bar. Should do the trick and you'll only need one of your extensions.

[Mishakol129]

Won't an impact work to take it off?

[Cb_JoeyG]

Ive had some pretty tough crank pullys.. breaker bar with a cheater bar is necessary sometimes

[eightyfour84]

Won't an impact work to take it off?

I don't have an impact gun (only wish I did). Right now I'm working with hand tools old school style. This job will be done the old fashioned way.

[eightyfour84]

Also I would just like to add for the record the breaker bar it's made in Taiwan, seems they have decent workmanship. Historically they haven't let me down compared to Chinese products

[eightyfour84]

No need to hammer it but i would definatly use penatrating oil on it. That breaker bar looks alot like my snap-on breaker bar. Should do the trick and you'll only need one of your extensions.

Thanks for the heads up.

[MortsAccord]

If you got the room, do a poor mans impact on it.

Get a friend and a cheater bar(i know i know just hear me out) have the friend use the cheater bar to stay out of your way and apply moderate force to the bar (hes not trying to break it loose just hold a god bit of torque on it), take a hammer and strike the breaker bar for a shockwave of tq.

I broke my breaker bar taking an axle nut off once, and thought to myself WTF am I gonna do with a 1/2 rachet that a breaker bar couldnt do?

So I tried this exact method, my wife held tq on the bar while I took a hammer to the end of the rachet(which was covered by the bar) er well where i guessed the end of it would have been, and pow, got it loose so easy.

You can also shock the threads by smacking the head of the bolt with a hammer, it works wonders from time to time.

I broke my pulleys bolt loose with just the breaker bar, in fact about 2 weeks before I broke it on an axle nut.

[H.M.]

I've had serious problems removing the crank pully nut.

Try it the way Mort suggested above.

Also, the longer the cheater bar the better and I personally would buy TWO of those bars. If you break one you can just continue with the repair with the other. Later you can return to the store what you didn't break or use.

[Bad_dude]

If you could find a 3/4" breaker bar, it gives much more torque, but if you could get that Honda's tool from Amazon, I think I saw it for only $15, it helps big time. My buddy tried that a few years ago and it worked very well.

[92cb7h22a]

It MAY work. We used a good pry bar, an 7ft breaker bar, PB Blaster, and 5 minutes of heat around the bolt and it finally broke loose. We fought 2 days, after a Snap On impact with a 700tq rating wouldn't break it we had to use man strength. The key is to use jack stands to put the end of your extensions/pry bar on so their is no play when putting the mojo on it.

[alan lx]

It MAY work. We used a good pry bar, an 7ft breaker bar, PB Blaster, and 5 minutes of heat around the bolt and it finally broke loose. We fought 2 days, after a Snap On impact with a 700tq rating wouldn't break it we had to use man strength. The key is to use jack stands to put the end of your extensions/pry bar on so their is no play when putting the mojo on it.

I have found that a torch (aka, the blue wrench) works wonders. Esp. on any bolts that are rusted. And yes the PB blaster is good stuff. Seems to be better than wd40.
I have a question on the previous reply. I would love to see a picture of the seven foot breaker bar. That will make it or break it.

[esskater892]

i used a 350ft lb impact hammer and it worked like a charm. electric

[dj_ender]

[url]http://
Other than that I plan to jam the flywheel with a screwdriver as described in haynes to prevent the engine from rotating.

0_o? I would not listen to Haynes on this one. I wouldn't trust any screwdriver tip to hold the engine. Go rent a Honda crank key from any auto parts store and do it right. You will need 2 breaker bars for this.