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removing rear motor mount bracket

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    removing rear motor mount bracket

    So I need to replace my rear motor mount bracket and I was wondering what is the easiest way to do this without pulling the motor?

    I have the new one but my intake Mani is right above it and there a lot of shit below it in the way....



    #2
    well you can go the remove intake manifold route, or the easier, remove oil filter and driver side drive shaft (auto), id assume the intermediate shaft on manuals, way. I took the latter, was easy and didnt take long.

    edit: Sorry I thought it was the whole mount you were replacing, you might be able to change it out w/o even taking anything apart working up thru the bottom, theres a lot of room, might wanna pull out the oil filter tho, its right in the middle of the void in the way =]
    Last edited by illinois_erik; 09-22-2012, 07:44 PM.

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      #3
      Ya the mount is fine the bracket....not so much. Thanks tho it just looks like a bitch

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        #4
        when i converted my 90 EX 5spd mount to an LX/DX 5spd mount, i swapped the bracket up through the top.

        I basically removed the front mount, all the intake stuff, undid the black box and charcoal canister and attached a hoist onto the transmission lifting point on the side to lift up on it and tilt the engine forward about 3 inches. That was enough to wiggle the bracket out.

        You won't be able to get it out from the bottom, the cross member is in the way as well as the rack and pinion. So your only way is from the top.

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          #5
          Originally posted by Losiracer2 View Post

          You won't be able to get it out from the bottom, the cross member is in the way as well as the rack and pinion. So your only way is from the top.
          I didnt have a problem with the rack being in the way. The crossmember takes a whole 5 mins to remove, 4 bolts. Id rather get under the car and do it the way the service manual suggests, then messing with all that other crap and having to replace gaskets. It can be done from the bottom, with less headaches than doing it from the topside.

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            #6
            ^just curious, but do you mean the actual rear crossmember or the engine cross beam that connects the front and rear crossmembers?

            When I swapped brackets (EX 5spd to DX/LX manual) the transmission was already removed, so it was very easy to swap out. I have never done this on a complete car.

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              #7
              Ya if there's no tranny its very ez but I guess I'll be going from the bottom i dont really have the money to replace gaskets and I just want this fixed

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                #8
                wouldnt you wanna put some extra support under the tranz? im pretty sure the engine and tranz will sag if you dont. but going from the bottom and doing an oil change at the same time is best bet. you shouldnt have to remove and cross menbers, but the intermitin shaft yes.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by Granite CB7 View Post
                  ^just curious, but do you mean the actual rear crossmember or the engine cross beam that connects the front and rear crossmembers?

                  When I swapped brackets (EX 5spd to DX/LX manual) the transmission was already removed, so it was very easy to swap out. I have never done this on a complete car.
                  the stamped metal bar that goes front to back.

                  Originally posted by esskater892 View Post
                  wouldnt you wanna put some extra support under the tranz? im pretty sure the engine and tranz will sag if you dont. but going from the bottom and doing an oil change at the same time is best bet. you shouldnt have to remove and cross menbers, but the intermitin shaft yes.

                  GL OP
                  Yeah youll need to have the car on stands, and use the floor jack to move the motor a bit and provide a little extra support, but most of the weight is on the side mounts, the front and back ones are more for keeping the motor in place when you accelerate or a load it up (hill, whole point of the vacuum hydraulic rear, attenuate motor vibrations under load) . when you have a bad front or back mount and you go from park to drive or reverse while on the brakes, the motor lurches a good 6 inches, so if youre on the highway and mash it, its gona buck like a bronco
                  Last edited by illinois_erik; 09-25-2012, 09:31 PM.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by illinois_erik View Post
                    the stamped metal bar that goes front to back
                    Yeah, that's what I fig'd since it'd take more than 5 minutes to remove the rear x member! Good to know, I've always wondered what it would take to remove the bracket w/ the engine and trans staying in the bay.

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                      #11
                      Its just a pain to get to but once I get it done I can put money twords things I want to do to my car

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                        #12
                        ^I've yet to see a broken honda rear mount bracket, how did that happen?

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                          #13
                          I was driving around on these for about 6months and never got around to fixing them ...but boy do I wish I did

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                            #14
                            So I got the bracket out and now I can't seem the get the new one in place there just no room anyway I try...what do I do?

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by alekp92jdm View Post
                              So I got the bracket out and now I can't seem the get the new one in place there just no room anyway I try...what do I do?
                              removed the front mount yet? if not do so, then use a floor jack towards the back of the motor to help lean it forward, then youll have plenty of room. The motor will rock back and forth a good amount when the f&r mounts are disconnected

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