overheating

[esskater892]

Could a baf heater core cause a car to overheat? Yes I have a F20B dohc. Ive done all various test. Compression test is good. T-stat is good. Ran water threw the cooling system and flushed it and the radiator. Wp is new and is not leaking from the weep hole.

[oyajicool]

Could a baf heater core cause a car to overheat?

No. Not likely. No.

When exactly do you (your car) overheat?

Check fins of radiator. Check for blockage of airflow through it.

[Shadow91]

I would check your radiator for being clogged or bent..

Make sure nothing is stopping airflow to the radiator as well..

[Old Dog 61]

x3....for checking for air flow through your radiator and condenser. Use a flash light and see if It's blocked with grass or other stuff, if so flush it out with a water hose. Is your fan coming on?

[esskater892]

There is a thread called F20b overheating. Its still the same issue. I did have to replace one of the fans but that did not fix the problem. Thanks for the help guys. This is an on going problemand ive just taken the t stat out in the mean time cause ive been super busy and this is my dd car. I will be doing a leak down test this weekend or beginning of the next week. For that uv stuff is it safe to use the ac kind? Its the only kind ive been able to find. Ill post pics of what kind im gonna use on my next day off. Again thanks Im open to any and all suggestions.

[toycar]

Well if taking the t-stat out is fixing your issue, isn't it obvious whats going on?



Boil the t-stat and see if it working correctly. Maybe something as simple as you bought a shitty t-stat and assuming it was good you have ruled it out as the problem. If you are not overheating w/out the t-stat, you can pretty much rule out the radiator, water pump and fans kicking on/off. I mean, the coolant is obviously circulating without the t-stat, or you would still be overheating.


Just my thoughts. Whenever something like this happens that should be easy to fix, I always triple check my work when all of the obvious fixes didn't work. Most of the time I find a faulty "new" part as the issue.

[esskater892]

I can see the t stat working when I left the cap off and let it run. It will over heat if I don't turn the fans on while its at idle with the t stat out. Im gonna find the compression test results and post em real quick. Be about 5 min.

[esskater892]

ok so here's a compression test.

cylinder 1,2,3,4
240, 232, 232, 245 i cranked and my dad read the gauge.

245, 235, 233, 245 dad cranked and i read the gauge.


i also went back and realized i missed a post by chingy or whatever his username is. i believe he has the supercharded H22 haha.
anyways im gonna find out about that leak down test he posted and do that so hopefully i can get this squared away asap. ill be able to do work on my car in about a week. sry to dev for posting a new thread about the same issue but it has lead me to discovering new information.

[esskater892]

update

ok so i did the block test with the liquid thats supposed to turn from blue to yellow if there is a leak and it came back as still blue. ive tested the t-stat and it works. boiled water last night. ive done a pressure test and it seemed to hold pressure. also i know its building pressure because hose is getting fat. im at a loss. when i get another car going im gonna just start taking things apart and see what happens. and before u say dont waste money it will be alright cause i can then clean some stuff up and double check other things. it is possible to have a hg leak between the cylinders but not leak into the cooling system i suppose. still weird. also all fuses are good.

[dj_ender]

Will it over heat if you jump the fan switch on the t stat housing?

[esskater892]

Will it over heat if you jump the fan switch on the t stat housing?

right now it is wired to a switch. and no it wont. like if i let it get just above normal and hit the switch it wont over heat but it wont cool it back down either. that was with the t-stat in and i believe when on fan was working. now ive got both fans working and my next thing to put the t-stat back in and put the plug that connects to the switch in again but also leave my manual switch hooked up as a back up. i feel like ive already tried that tho. course im not able to get a F20B fan switch from autozone so i used a H22 vtec one and the temp sensor is the h22 one as well . the one with one wire.

so pretty much no. if i jump the switch so the fans are on when the cars on it wont over heat. even with t-stat in. but that doesnt really solve the problem only mask it cause i didnt have to do it like that for about a month or two after the engine was in.

ive noticed that my coolant level, when car is cold u can not see any at the top when the cap is off, but its not gotten lower and u can see it flowing threw when cap is off and car is at operating temp.

do you think ive just over looked a small leak or maybe that its not completely sealed somewhere?

[dj_ender]

Have you put a coolant system pressure tester to the car yet? It really sounds like you have a pin hole leak somewhere.

[wed3k]

Meh, coolant isn't supposed to be at the rad cap, most of the times it is below the fins and will run perfect.

Are you ever loosing coolant and what's your timing set at? I've seen ignition timing so far off that it will overheat the motor.

You should really get this switch deal figured out

[esskater892]

Have you put a coolant system pressure tester to the car yet? It really sounds like you have a pin hole leak somewhere.

Meh, coolant isn't supposed to be at the rad cap, most of the times it is below the fins and will run perfect.

Are you ever loosing coolant and what's your timing set at? I've seen ignition timing so far off that it will overheat the motor.

You should really get this switch deal figured out

i have done a pressure test. one when it was warm and it lost a little but that was expected, then when it cooled down and it ddnt seem to lose any pressure.

EDIT: would the ignition timing throw off the fan switch?

and ya the level is just at the fins. ive not had to add anymore sense but if i fill it over the fins it loses some or goes back down to the fins.

could i adjust the ignition timing via the dizzy? it could be off. i mean ive not had it tuned thats for sure. but i just find it odd that for the first two months that it worked perfectly and then randomly it overheats.

thanks for all ur help guys im sure this is kinda annoying but ur helping me trace down what it could be before i waste money or break into a big job when i may not need to.

[esskater892]

Ive been using 97 octain in the engine. Should I use 87 instead? Ive used 97 sense I put the engine in. Its just a theory tho. Its more explosive and is a higher combustion ration so my theory is that sense ive been using it for a long time its causing to to run hotter vs using it every once in a while. Does that hold any weight?