Problem going into 1st gear?

[HelmHoltz]

Now it is my turn to experience the nightmare trying to get all the air out of the clutch hydrolics. I replaced my clutch master, clutch hose and clutch slave. I used adler (AKA Honda oem) parts and it took me a full 3-4 hours to get pressure back. I dont know what is going on with the 90-93 Accords but I have been reading that many people have trouble getting the air out of the clutch system. I Changed all these parts because I am having trouble in the morning getting the car in gear, before I changed the parts I had trouble getting in first every once in a while, not it shifts smooth as butter after a few miles but still stiff in the morning. I have switch the gear oil out with 0-30W motor, Redline MTL 70-80 and now back to the Honda oil. The Honda oil works the best. I just ordered a special tool to help get all the air out as a las resort the tool is called a Phoenix V-12 Brake Bleeder Kit. This kit works by pushing the back air up to the master. I hope this works else I suspect the chutch. I messed with the pedal adjustment alot ad it does ot seem to make very much difference. My question is if the car shifts smooth after warming up could it still be a bad clutch? can the parts possible expand to the point where a worn pressure plate can put itself back into usable range?
Or it is most likely I still have a little bit of air in the system? Hopefully someone else has solved this mystery.

[wed3k]

Its bad synchros in first.

[HelmHoltz]

Its bad synchros in first.

I am trying to avoid having the clutch replaced only to discover that it is my trans. This is starting to make sense because when I first got the car it had a rattle that would go away when I depressed the clutch, well the rattle went away and that is when the problem going into first gear started showing up. The car also had a improperly installed clutch slave that was mounted with a bolt that was cross threaded in the hole. The slave was not flush with the case not allowing the slave to fully extend causing problems with high speed shifts. This is probably what caused damage to the transmission. I did not notice any metal shavings in the gear oil, but I do not have the experience to know if a bad synchro would leave anything in the oil. Synchrotech has the transmission for $695 so I am looking at a $1300 repair bill.

[wed3k]

you could probably find a reputable trans shop just fix first if the rest are good for less than that.

[HelmHoltz]

you could probably find a reputable trans shop just fix first if the rest are good for less than that.

So the synchro will act up cold then work perfectly after warming-up? I have been finding alot of threads on different forums that state this is a common problem.

[wed3k]

yes especially when the fluid warms up. what you can do is just shift it into third first. do you have a problem with reverse when it is cold?

[HelmHoltz]

yes especially when the fluid warms up. what you can do is just shift it into third first. do you have a problem with reverse when it is cold?

No problem with reverse, but I will verify it in the morning. It only gets about 28 Deg/F in the morning where I live, that might not be considered cold if you live in the midwest?

[wed3k]

im in norcal and i still had synchro problems when cold.

[HelmHoltz]

I will be trying this method next:

How to Bleed a Honda Accord Clutch?
Many people bleed their clutch by pumping the clutch pedal to move the air out through the bleeder on the slave cylinder. Bleeding a clutch this way will not get all the air out, because air naturally wants to go up. When you take your foot off the clutch, the air will rise back into the clutch line. Bleeding a clutch by pumping brake fluid through the bleeder screw will remove all air through the master cylinder at the top



Instructions

1.
Suck the brake fluid from the brake fluid reservoir with a turkey baster. You want to get all the old brake fluid out of the line, because you are going to pump new brake fluid into it.

2.
Fill a pump style oil (Phoenix V12) can with brake fluid and attach a 3 mm flex line to the can. Pump brake fluid into the tube to get all the air out of the tube. Make sure the oil can is new. You do not want to pump old fluid or dirt particles into the clutch line




3.
Use a 8 mm wrench to open the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder, and slide the flex line tube over the bleeder screw.

4
Pump the can to move the brake fluid up the line and move the air out through the master cylinder. Pump until all the air is out. You will know when the air is out, because you will not see any more bubbles coming out in the brake fluid at the top of the master cylinder.

5
Close the bleeder screw and disconnect the line.

[HelmHoltz]

Update,

I struggled with the Phoenix V12 with help from my wife. The Phoenix tool is a plastic piece of junk, it is very difficult to prime. The unit locked up on me and needed two hands to pull it apart after each pump. I did manage to get more air out of the system and I have not had any more trouble in the mornings. The shifting does not feel perfect but maybe I am just paying to much attention to it since the trouble began.

I would tell anybody else with a similar problem to try very hard to get all of the air out. I am returning the Phoenix and may buy a higher quality unit if they have one available. I might even try finding a very high quality oil can fitted with o-rings that may perform the same function.