My CB7 A/T would shake violently hence why I had vacuum leaks on my IM, since I removed the IM to check out my leak, I wanted to check the conditions of my engine mounts, not every day you can take out the IM and have a pain in the back 
I replaced my rear mount because it was torn 360 degrees, I knew about that one from before since I tried to glue it first and I said to myself why not continue and check the others.
since my rear mount cost me 40$, I found the poly urethane DIY here, my front mount was 70% damaged and the engine side mount was 30% damaged. alright well I didn't find any poly urethane and no knew what I was talking about in the first place so I found out this RTV:
http://www.supergluecorp.com/pro-sea...instant-gasket
http://www.supergluecorp.com/pro-sea...stant-gasket-0
also found this
http://www.supergluecorp.com/pacer-i...lding-compound
alright so what I did, is stuffed pro weld quick -that maggot is really quick !! it puts pressure on me (we don't have JB Weld here) - on the torn locations and pressed on it until it closed the ruptures, then I emptied the hole RTV (black) inside the hollow places on the mounts ( I think honda made them thin on purpose so they get torn apart with time in order to replace them ) ... so I stuffed those locations pretty good as per the DIY and the next morning I found out that the cured material was close to Rubber rigidity yet a little flexible than rubber
so is it possible that they contain poly urethane material .. nothing is said on the back yet here are the links for the PDF sheets of these RTVs and pro weld quick
supergluemsds.com/MSDSDocs.aspx?PartNo=80044
http://supergluemsds.com/PDSDocs.aspx?PartNo=80044
http://supergluemsds.com/MSDSDocs.aspx?PartNo=64605
http://supergluemsds.com/PDSDocs.aspx?PartNo=64605
now what was left is the Transmission mount, which was damaged at 50%, I just did it now and waiting for it to be cured because it was a PITA to remove it which will lead me to the next question.
well the problem is that there's a bracket that the mechanic bolt it in reverse which forbid me from removing the engine mount ( wasted 2 hours for nothing ) the next morning it was obvious I needed to take off the starter which was also a PITA especially the rear 14 mm bolt. anyway here's a pic of what I am talking about.
My questions is, since I removed the starter in such manner, does it need any overhauling since I removed it ?! does it look normal !? also I span its gear by mistake does it have any impact on idle timing now ?!
I will make sure to put the bracket the right way now, or maybe I should ditch it since nothing was connected to it. also would it be a problem if I installed the main part of the starter first then the portion that has the 2 long 10 mm bolts, just so I could easily tighten the rear 14mm bolt the space is very narrow
Thank you
I replaced my rear mount because it was torn 360 degrees, I knew about that one from before since I tried to glue it first and I said to myself why not continue and check the others.
since my rear mount cost me 40$, I found the poly urethane DIY here, my front mount was 70% damaged and the engine side mount was 30% damaged. alright well I didn't find any poly urethane and no knew what I was talking about in the first place
so I found out this RTV:http://www.supergluecorp.com/pro-sea...instant-gasket
http://www.supergluecorp.com/pro-sea...stant-gasket-0
also found this
http://www.supergluecorp.com/pacer-i...lding-compound
alright so what I did, is stuffed pro weld quick -that maggot is really quick !! it puts pressure on me (we don't have JB Weld here) - on the torn locations and pressed on it until it closed the ruptures, then I emptied the hole RTV (black) inside the hollow places on the mounts ( I think honda made them thin on purpose so they get torn apart with time in order to replace them ) ... so I stuffed those locations pretty good as per the DIY and the next morning I found out that the cured material was close to Rubber rigidity yet a little flexible than rubber
so is it possible that they contain poly urethane material .. nothing is said on the back yet here are the links for the PDF sheets of these RTVs and pro weld quick
supergluemsds.com/MSDSDocs.aspx?PartNo=80044
http://supergluemsds.com/PDSDocs.aspx?PartNo=80044
http://supergluemsds.com/MSDSDocs.aspx?PartNo=64605
http://supergluemsds.com/PDSDocs.aspx?PartNo=64605
now what was left is the Transmission mount, which was damaged at 50%, I just did it now and waiting for it to be cured because it was a PITA to remove it which will lead me to the next question.
well the problem is that there's a bracket that the mechanic bolt it in reverse which forbid me from removing the engine mount ( wasted 2 hours for nothing ) the next morning it was obvious I needed to take off the starter which was also a PITA especially the rear 14 mm bolt. anyway here's a pic of what I am talking about.
My questions is, since I removed the starter in such manner, does it need any overhauling since I removed it ?! does it look normal !? also I span its gear by mistake does it have any impact on idle timing now ?!
I will make sure to put the bracket the right way now, or maybe I should ditch it since nothing was connected to it. also would it be a problem if I installed the main part of the starter first then the portion that has the 2 long 10 mm bolts, just so I could easily tighten the rear 14mm bolt the space is very narrow
Thank you
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