While changing the cam, questions.

[CB7Denmark]

I thought in my ignorance that changing the cam was a fairly easy job (well it is, i just didn't realize how much work there is to it) as i wrongly believed i could do it without taking the head of.

I'm just planning ahead.

Initially, i was planning on installing springs and my bisicam with the head on, but the correct way is to remove the head (Well duh, now that i think about it.) so if the head is off anyway and it also have to be dismantled to some degree, why not give it a little overhaul? Changing the head gasket was immediately obvious to me, along with a lot of sealings and gaskets in the head as well, i don't know what the respective sealings and gaskets are called in english, but i planned on buying this kit: http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct...05426475695800 (Or a kit like this, this is just for reference)

I've also read that changing the bearings and followers is a must.

But with all this new knowledge i kinda stagnated in the planning, is there any specific information about the F22A's that would be relative to me? I've done some searched but came out empty handed.

Guides, good information and stuff like that is very appreciated, i don't plan on saving any money in this process and this has to be done using quality parts etc. to maximize reliability and lifetime, but i also don't plan on any milling or porting.

So i guess my real question is, what is up and down in this process? What should i do and what should i not do?

[cp[mike]]

You don't need to take the head off, there are "cam caps" that bridge overtop of the cam and hold it in. The caps can come off without touching the main head bolts. Then the cam lifts up and out while leaving the head casting still in place.

The one thing you will definitely need to remove is the timing belt. and THAT is a great opportunity to do the regular timing belt stuff - water pump, seals, etc.

[CB7Denmark]

You don't need to take the head off, there are "cam caps" that bridge overtop of the cam and hold it in. The caps can come off without touching the main head bolts. Then the cam lifts up and out while leaving the head casting still in place.

The one thing you will definitely need to remove is the timing belt. and THAT is a great opportunity to do the regular timing belt stuff - water pump, seals, etc.

Already got a Contitech kit and Hella waterpump waiting

That was the main reason for breaking in the cam, because of that operation which essentially would be 40% of the work of changing the cam anyway.

But then i kept building on the idea and eventually it led to the idea of changing every sealing and gasket and something called "Olie tyve" on danish, i don't know the english word for the specific sealing, but directly translated its something along the lines of "Oil theifs". I know for a fact that if they start leaking, the engine will burn oil. They seal of the space between the valvestems? Valvestem sealings? Is that whats it called?

[cp[mike]]

ah, yes, the "Valve stem seals" which often go bad.

Good thinking, they are also easier to change when you have the camshaft out. They require more tools to do, and I guess that's where the original idea of removing the head came from. But it is not necessary to remove the head to replace them! The Valve Springs need to be removed from the valves, in order for the seals to be accessed. Usually a Spring Compressor tool needs the head to be removed to do this.

I have an alternative recommendation for you: http://www.toyotool.com/PURCHASE.htm

Toyotool's VALVEMASTER tool is fantastic. Utterly amazing and worth every penny, ten times over. Basically just give it a tap with your hand or a hammer and the spring comes right off cleanly. Without removing the head!

In order to remove the spring, and not let the valves fall down into the engine, you need to make sure the piston is all the way at the top of its stroke. Then use an air compressor (Toyotool sells the adapter hose) to connect to the spark plug hole and pressurize the cylinder to hold the valves in place.

If you really don't have access to an air compressor, there is a trick where you can put rope into the cylinder, and then move the piston upward to squish the soft rope inside of the cylinder, and push against the valves to hold them up.

Once the valves are held in place, the Valvemaster tool can pop the springs off within a few seconds each. Change the valve stem seals (tip: heat them up with a torch to soften the inner rubber, so they pull off easier). Then the same Valvemaster tool reinstalls the springs within a few seconds each. Done!



If you DO decide to remove the head, then the only thing I could think of also doing would maybe be a "Valve job" where you basically polish the surface where the valves seat into the head. It would be easy to do if the valve springs and stem seals are already out. A machine shop can do it for you, or you can get "valve grinding compound" which is basically liquid sandpaper, and you can polish the surfaces yourself. If the motor has a lot of miles on it, this may help improve overall compression. Otherwise, I think the only benefit to removing the head completely would be to mill the surface flat, or widen the ports, which you mentioned that you don't really have interest in.

[CB7Denmark]

ah, yes, the "Valve stem seals" which often go bad.

Good thinking, they are also easier to change when you have the camshaft out. They require more tools to do, and I guess that's where the original idea of removing the head came from. But it is not necessary to remove the head to replace them! The Valve Springs need to be removed from the valves, in order for the seals to be accessed. Usually a Spring Compressor tool needs the head to be removed to do this.

I have an alternative recommendation for you: http://www.toyotool.com/PURCHASE.htm

Toyotool's VALVEMASTER tool is fantastic. Utterly amazing and worth every penny, ten times over. Basically just give it a tap with your hand or a hammer and the spring comes right off cleanly. Without removing the head!

In order to remove the spring, and not let the valves fall down into the engine, you need to make sure the piston is all the way at the top of its stroke. Then use an air compressor (Toyotool sells the adapter hose) to connect to the spark plug hole and pressurize the cylinder to hold the valves in place.

If you really don't have access to an air compressor, there is a trick where you can put rope into the cylinder, and then move the piston upward to squish the soft rope inside of the cylinder, and push against the valves to hold them up.

Once the valves are held in place, the Valvemaster tool can pop the springs off within a few seconds each. Change the valve stem seals (tip: heat them up with a torch to soften the inner rubber, so they pull off easier). Then the same Valvemaster tool reinstalls the springs within a few seconds each. Done!



If you DO decide to remove the head, then the only thing I could think of also doing would maybe be a "Valve job" where you basically polish the surface where the valves seat into the head. It would be easy to do if the valve springs and stem seals are already out. A machine shop can do it for you, or you can get "valve grinding compound" which is basically liquid sandpaper, and you can polish the surfaces yourself. If the motor has a lot of miles on it, this may help improve overall compression. Otherwise, I think the only benefit to removing the head completely would be to mill the surface flat, or widen the ports, which you mentioned that you don't really have interest in.

I will definitively order that tool! Looks really cool and effective.

Turns out i have decided not to remove the head, but if i do, i will polish as you mentioned.

Thanks for pointing me in the direction of such tool. It's gonna be great!

[H311RA151N]

I have an alternative recommendation for you: http://www.toyotool.com/PURCHASE.htm

Toyotool's VALVEMASTER tool is fantastic. Utterly amazing and worth every penny, ten times over. Basically just give it a tap with your hand or a hammer and the spring comes right off cleanly. Without removing the head!

In order to remove the spring, and not let the valves fall down into the engine, you need to make sure the piston is all the way at the top of its stroke. Then use an air compressor (Toyotool sells the adapter hose) to connect to the spark plug hole and pressurize the cylinder to hold the valves in place.

Wow, I have to get one of those... Thanks for sharing that!