Low oil reading on dipstick.

[br0nx finest]

I know that I have a fux0red valve cover gasket, is this the problem?

My car is reading below the lower dot on the dipstick, serious? How much oil should I throw in? I plan on driving it tomorrow to the CT meet, risky?

Please help, I plan on doing the vcg next week. But it seems like there's alot of gunk around below the valve cover gasket.


Thanks, Luis.

[YK86]

It's normal for the oil level to drop after say....2500kms after an oil change. Leaky valve cover, oil pan, cam seal gaskets and distributor o-rings just contribute to it dropping faster. Mine dropped to the bottom dot after 2500kms because of my leaky oil pan gasket and a hard as rock distributor o-ring. It now drops about half way down after 5000kms.

How fast it drops just depends on how bad each gasket is leaking (or if you have mechanical problems like worn out piston rings). If you are going to change the valve cover gasket, make sure you get the full kit that comes with new grommets and the seals for the spark plug holes. I'd give the engine a good wash after as old oil/grime will make the engine run a bit hotter. Also makes finding other leaks easier later on.

BTW, it's 1 liter to go from the bottom dot to the top on the dipstick.

[br0nx finest]

Hey Ricky, he's from Canada. They use the metric system dude.

Thanks for the help, do you think 5w30 is too thin for a car w/172.5k?

[YK86]

Sorry about that. Using L is a habit plus for some reason I thought I was talking to another Canadian which was also why I used kms instead of miles. LOL

As for oil, I have 300,000kms (about 187,000miles) on my engine and I've used both 5W30 and 10W30 and didn't notice much of a difference. But everyone's motor is a bit different so I'd get the gaskets fixed and give it a try. If you notice any negative things such as higher oil consumption, just switch back. I usually grab whatever brand name oil they have on sale that week whether it's 5W30 or 10W30 so that tells you how I pick my oil for the 4th gen LOL.

[i97supratti]

It's normal for the oil level to drop after say....2500kms after an oil change. Leaky valve cover, oil pan, cam seal gaskets and distributor o-rings just contribute to it dropping faster. Mine dropped to the bottom dot after 2500kms because of my leaky oil pan gasket and a hard as rock distributor o-ring. It now drops about half way down after 5000kms.

How fast it drops just depends on how bad each gasket is leaking (or if you have mechanical problems like worn out piston rings). If you are going to change the valve cover gasket, make sure you get the full kit that comes with new grommets and the seals for the spark plug holes. I'd give the engine a good wash after as old oil/grime will make the engine run a bit hotter. Also makes finding other leaks easier later on.

BTW, it's 1 liter to go from the bottom dot to the top on the dipstick.

How do i change the items u listed? The valve cover, cam seal gaskets, and distributor o-rings? I already put on a new oil pan.

[Nycxeracer]

BX I have the same gasket leak son, dead that old shit get a nice new oem jdmz0rz gasket. I have driven 5000+ miles with a cracked gasket, so if you have the same problem it won't be too detrimental. Just filler her up to the 3/4 point in between the circles on the dip stick.

[wed3k]

sorry to bring this up guys...but my oil level tonight was around the twisted part of the stick. i added a quart and it moved up to a little bit below the lower hole. this was whent he car was hot. my car has been stalling (like more of a cutting off type, not sttuering) but only when ive been going up hills. so whenever i proceed to go up a hill, the car sometimes just cuts off and when warm.

after adding the quart of oil, it only cut off 1 out of 3 times around the block (and that was only ont he hill). i dont even remember my last oil change, it has been that long but ive only put 2500 miles since the last. i believe the car sat during spring break and winter break, so it has been over 5 months.

but if it was this low, wouldnt the oil light have come on? thanks guys.

[wed3k]

oil light is triggered by low pressure, not low oil......a dirty motor with low oil will usually have good pressure, just not enough to keep everything happy......low oil can also harm you for that split second you are hanging a curve and the pickup sucks air..........your problem doesn't stem from your oil loss, if you've let it sit that long, check the tune up items

hmm, aight. ive recently replaced hella stuff such as PCV valve, plugs, plug wires, ignitor, fuel filter, o2 sensor...so hella shit EXCEPT the oil and filter.

ill def. do that soon and see how much oil came out. thanks for thw quik reply

[wed3k]

maybe you got a bad part

bad plugs and wires are VERY common...i'd say 25% of what i've bought from autozone or advance weren't any count

after replacing the plug and wires from autozone/kragen. the effects were still the same.

i believe adding the oil helped more...

[wed3k]

then a) you have bearings that are partially spun and therefore requiring all the oil possible to keep them lubricated since they're already skinned up

b) pure coincidence

when adding oil really makes a car run better, then there are some bad things ahead

that makes me sad

ill keep you guys updated on what happens though, thx for the replies fizzy!

[oldskoolcb7]

then a) you have bearings that are partially spun and therefore requiring all the oil possible to keep them lubricated since they're already skinned up

b) pure coincidence

when adding oil really makes a car run better, then there are some bad things ahead

I agree with fizzy, you should probably have your bearings checked out. Take the oil pan out and check for debris. You can also take the bottom parts off of your piston rods and check those for wear. That's really about it unless you want to pull the motor and maybe resleeve and replace your journal bearings.

I tried some aftermarket wires from autozone once and my car ran like $h!+. Stick to OEM wires. Perfect fit everytime, just like a virgin.

Just my thoughts, I always think the worst, that way when it's something simple I can just have a beer and relax.

[wed3k]

I agree with fizzy, you should probably have your bearings checked out. Take the oil pan out and check for debris. You can also take the bottom parts off of your piston rods and check those for wear. That's really about it unless you want to pull the motor and maybe resleeve and replace your journal bearings.

I tried some aftermarket wires from autozone once and my car ran like $h!+. Stick to OEM wires. Perfect fit everytime, just like a virgin.

Just my thoughts, I always think the worst, that way when it's something simple I can just have a beer and relax.

jesus...ive never opened up my engine b4 in my life. ill go from the oil change first, lol

[oldskoolcb7]

jesus...ive never opened up my engine b4 in my life. ill go from the oil change first, lol

Yeah always try the simple stuff first I guess. You should always try a,b,c first instead of skipping to Q.

[wed3k]

well, i drained the oil right now. it was looking pretty dark and only 1.5 quarts came out. i fille dit back up with valvoline high mileage and it still stalls. for one time i could get it to idle for 3 minutes but once i drove it, it stallaed about half a block downt eh street.

so yea. its either my engine is going to shit or it could be my distributor. the exhaust fumers smells kinda sweet.

i dont have time or money to fix it right now. so i just have to drive the camry i guess.
i dont get any CEL's either.

edit* after procrastinating on my essay, i remembered this one post on HAN about this one guy's 94 accord stalling. he says it would be random and they suggested the ignitor and main relay. well, ive already changed the ignitor, so i think it is the main relay.