Cliff notes:
I have a '93 EX manual coupe. I put a H22A in it, and converted to using the internal coil on a TD60 distributor. I initially had a 30 amp fuse in the plus/harness that went to the external coil, but I eventually spliced the wires (yellow/yellow & black) together as described in the H22 SWAP sticky. I also have a P13 that came w/o a cover and it looks like one of the screws were replaced on one of the circuit boards for some reason.
. Could I a bad ECU? Maybe.
Also, car cranked with no problems before the swap.
Symptoms:
Insert the key, turn the key to the ON position without trying to start it, and everything lights up as it should plus all electronics are working. Fuel is being pumped through as I can hear it. I press down on the clutch pedal, turn the key, and I hear the relay near the kick panel clicking as well as the one in the fuse box under the hood, but the starter wont do anything.
Troubleshooting:
I put the meter on some areas, and this is what I found while trying to start it: 1. Battery reads ~12.7 Volts. 2. Ignition fuse reads ~12.6 Volts. 3. Took the distributor cap off, and the spring for the internal coil reads ~12.6 Volts. 4. At the positive cable to the starter, the meter reads ~12.6 Volts. 5. The smaller wire to the starter solenoid when trying to crank it reads ~0.45 Volts.
I took the battery and starter both to Advance Auto parts to have them tested, and they both came back good.
I also read the troubleshooting sticky:
BATTERY CRANK VOLTAGE.
Ignition OFF
Disconnect Small Black/White Wire from Starter Solenoid .
Connect RED MM Lead to Main Starter Motor Wire.
Connect BLACK MM Lead to BATTERY GROUND.
Turn Ignition to START and observe Multimeter.
Voltage Drop should be approx 3.0 Volts.
NO Voltage Drop - Check Wiring Connections, Check Ignition Switch, Check Starter Motor, Check Starting Circuitry.
Voltage Drop > 3.0 Volts. Check Wiring Connections, Check Battery, Check Ignition Switch, Check Starter Motor, Check Starter Circuitry.
ALTERNATOR OUTPUT CHECK.
Any ideas?
I have a '93 EX manual coupe. I put a H22A in it, and converted to using the internal coil on a TD60 distributor. I initially had a 30 amp fuse in the plus/harness that went to the external coil, but I eventually spliced the wires (yellow/yellow & black) together as described in the H22 SWAP sticky. I also have a P13 that came w/o a cover and it looks like one of the screws were replaced on one of the circuit boards for some reason.
. Could I a bad ECU? Maybe.Also, car cranked with no problems before the swap.
Symptoms:
Insert the key, turn the key to the ON position without trying to start it, and everything lights up as it should plus all electronics are working. Fuel is being pumped through as I can hear it. I press down on the clutch pedal, turn the key, and I hear the relay near the kick panel clicking as well as the one in the fuse box under the hood, but the starter wont do anything.
Troubleshooting:
I put the meter on some areas, and this is what I found while trying to start it: 1. Battery reads ~12.7 Volts. 2. Ignition fuse reads ~12.6 Volts. 3. Took the distributor cap off, and the spring for the internal coil reads ~12.6 Volts. 4. At the positive cable to the starter, the meter reads ~12.6 Volts. 5. The smaller wire to the starter solenoid when trying to crank it reads ~0.45 Volts.
I took the battery and starter both to Advance Auto parts to have them tested, and they both came back good.
I also read the troubleshooting sticky:
BATTERY CRANK VOLTAGE.
Ignition OFF
Disconnect Small Black/White Wire from Starter Solenoid .
Connect RED MM Lead to Main Starter Motor Wire.
Connect BLACK MM Lead to BATTERY GROUND.
Turn Ignition to START and observe Multimeter.
Voltage Drop should be approx 3.0 Volts.
NO Voltage Drop - Check Wiring Connections, Check Ignition Switch, Check Starter Motor, Check Starting Circuitry.
Voltage Drop > 3.0 Volts. Check Wiring Connections, Check Battery, Check Ignition Switch, Check Starter Motor, Check Starter Circuitry.
ALTERNATOR OUTPUT CHECK.
Any ideas?
Comment