H22a swap won't stay running.

[HenRoc]

Ok so before anyone decides to rip into me:

- I searched the forum and found a similiar isssue :

Coppertone March 2011

Unfortunately nothing was ever solved in that thread. So here's my issue:

Outline:

I recently swapped an h22a into my 92 Accord, used my ry-wire subharness and wired everything up like I've done so many times before (3rd swap).

When I purchased the motor I was given an OBD2 distributor for this motor when I purchased it so I converted it from an OBD2 internal unit to an external OBD1 unit for the car, pretty simple and straight forward.

I went to a local tuner shop and he gave me a set of OBD2 H22a injectors in which I found I had to by pass the resistor box :

h22 OBD2 injectors

So after that mod, I tried to start it and it was getting a very strong spark but would not fire up, so my friend showed up and it turns out the firing order was wrong, so we switched the wires and voila it fired up and ran..for about a minute and then shut off.

Discovered that on top of the H22 TB there's a 90 nipple that if PLUGGED off would keep the car running, BUT if you gave it gas it would die out.

I understand that nipple is for the Charcoal canister but the red hose won't fit over it. So I tired to by pass it by blocking it off.

On Saturday morning before work I tried to fire it up, it does get spark, fuel , combustion and compression so I know it works, bad idea on my part is that I tried to use brake clean as an alternate source (which worked) but I completely forgot that the injectors (f22a1s) weren't sealed tightly..thus it started a fire.

Luckily no damage was done as I quickly extinguished it.

Cleaned it up, took out the f22ax injectors and put h23 ones in their place but now here's this NEXT kicker:

It will run on ether for a few seconds and then just die. I'm assuming until the ether itself burns out..

HAS anyone on here ever experienced a similar situation?

I've googled and it's taken me to SuperHonda , Preludepower , here (respectively) and even Honda-Tech with no known fixes.

Cliffs:

- Swapped in an H22a
- Changed injectors to OBD2 H22s and by passed the resistor box.
- Switched back to the single cam f22ax injectors and on attempt to start it backfired thru the intake manifold and caught the gasoline spray on fire
- Switched back to OBD1 h23 injectors
- Has spark, compression and combustion
- Used ether to start it and it WILL run but not for long (about a minute)

Can anyone ??

[Stoner51]

Stupid question but what ECU are you using.

OBD 2 also has to have some rewiring for the MAP sensor.

steve

[wagon-r]

Do you have a typo? You said you "switched back to H23 injectors". Did you mean H22? H23 injectors are the same as F22 injectors and will not deliver enough fuel for an h22.

Also, I have had issues with a OBD 2 distributor throwing a code 9 with my OBD 1 ECU. The CYP (cylinder position sensor) appears to be different. The service manual spec for CYP sensors in some OBD 2 distributors is 700-1300 ohms, while the OBD1 distributor is supposed to have 350-700 ohms. Do you have any trouble codes set?

[HenRoc]

Stupid question but what ECU are you using.

OBD 2 also has to have some rewiring for the MAP sensor.

steve

I'm using the stock p13. I had a Code 6 for the ECT sensor so I plugged that in correctly and eliminated the code. So all I have left is code 21 for the VTEC Pressure solenoid which I have to de-pin one wire and install the wire for that.

Do you have a typo? You said you "switched back to H23 injectors". Did you mean H22? H23 injectors are the same as F22 injectors and will not deliver enough fuel for an h22.

Also, I have had issues with a OBD 2 distributor throwing a code 9 with my OBD 1 ECU. The CYP (cylinder position sensor) appears to be different. The service manual spec for CYP sensors in some OBD 2 distributors is 700-1300 ohms, while the OBD1 distributor is supposed to have 350-700 ohms. Do you have any trouble codes set?

No it wasn't a typo. I'm trying to get the car to run on h23s since the H22 ones I have are OBD2 injectors.

All I did was use the case from the H22 and rebuild it as an external coil using F22a parts (basically transfering them over). I was told that if I do that the distributor would still work.

The only codes I have at the moment are:

Code 6 - ECT sensor (already solved that issue this morning)

Code 21 - VTEC Solenoid (which I haven't wired yet).

This morning since I had some time to kill before work , I checked the timing marks by referecning the number 1 cylinder at TDC and checking the cam marks on the cylinder head. Everything is spot on so I know the timing is correct.

I'm going to try and study that DIY for the resistor box bypass mod. I've been told that it should work once I do that in order to use the OBD2 injectors.

The other thing I forgot to mention is that for about 2 months I left the cover plate for the gas gauge unit uncovered, I mentioned that to a friend of mine and he told me to check the gasoline sample to see if it burns funny.

If you leave the gasoline exposed..can that also cause it to go foul?

Henry

[wagon-r]

H23 injectors flow 240 cc/min.

H22 injectors flow 345 cc/min (OBD1).

Your ECU is expecting the injectors to flow 40% more fuel than they are. So, if the ECU is commanding 14:1 air/fuel ratio, the engine is actually getting about 20:1 air/fuel. Isn't going to run very well, if at all.

[HenRoc]

So I'd have to bypass the resistor box and try the OBD2 H22 injectors?

[wagon-r]

Only other option is to chip your ECU and download a H23 or F22 basemap.

[DGOfTheCentury]

So I'd have to bypass the resistor box and try the OBD2 H22 injectors?

You are making this harder than it has to be mate. Just get the OBD1 h22 injectors. The H23 injectors do not flow nearly enough to keep this engine running. That is why she dies when you raise the RPMs.

You can run injectors pretty universal across your series. The one thing about them is the max flow, that never changes. When it comes to injectors you should be matching the flow, based on what you plan to run; whether it be NA or Forced. An injector takes a specific current delivered by the ECM, to release a specific amount of fuel from the rail, that is all it does; hence making them virtually universal across the Honda line. The only thing that should be considered is the max and min flow to run your engine. The ECM will make the adjustments itself.

Your H23 injectors do not have the correct flow to run your motor; period. Use the H22 injectors, check the flow for OBD1 injectors vs. the OBD2 ones. I believe it went from 345c to 290c something like that. If you verify that, either buy some aftermarket ones or try to get some used h22 obd1 ones.



I have f23a injectors.
BTW old fuel burns like crap. Good luck.

[jaykilla116]

I kind of skimed threw the situation..
I might have miss understood but looks to me like u got obd 2 injectors and bypassed the resistor box . Then it say u switched to obd1 injectors... you need to UN BYPASS the resistor box if u go back to obd 1 injectors ... the resistor values are differnt between obd1 and obd2....

Besides the confusion of mixed parts.. check ur fuel pressure. And fuel pressure regulator vacuum.