Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Ball Joint Seperator

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Ball Joint Seperator

    Can some body tell me what size ball joint seperator I need to split the upper controll arm with the lower?

    #2
    did u hit upwards so it seperated?

    Comment


      #3
      YOu can use something like this



      or like this (the C shape minus the part on the bottom), this is which one i use.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by aero3685
        YOu can use something like this


        I have something very simular to that I bought last month and used it 3 times. I highly reccommend it. It was about $20 and pops everything out. No ripped boots, very easy to use. I gave up on the two/three arm pullers because they never work (one arm would pop off or something). Pickle forks almost always rip the boot and hammering doesn't always get the lower balljoints out although it works well for tierod ends and upper balljoints.

        Comment


          #5
          want a ball joint separator? his name is mayberry4thgen with a big hammer.

          rail the side of hte contorl arm with a metal hammer and hte ball joint will pop out.


          - 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
          - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
          - 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
          - 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
          - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
          - 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
          - 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
          - 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
          Current cars:
          - 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
          - 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion

          Comment


            #6
            yup, BFH is the way to go, thats how ive always done mine, but DO NOT hit the ball joint itself, unless youre planning on replacing it, then who cares right!
            HONDA:
            Happy
            Owners
            Never
            Drive
            Anything
            (else)

            Comment


              #7
              it a good idea to loosen the b/j nut but leave it on a couple threads, just incase you swing and miss. you dont want to screw up the threads, its a bitch to get back on if you damage the threads because the b/j will just spin.


              91 ex 1badwag
              91 lx wag (aka the beater)
              92 ex 4-door
              HONDA...its not just a way of life...its an ADDICTION!!!!!!!!!!!!

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by 1badwag
                it a good idea to loosen the b/j nut but leave it on a couple threads, just incase you swing and miss. you dont want to screw up the threads, its a bitch to get back on if you damage the threads because the b/j will just spin.
                Lol, yeah.. I messed up the threads on my axle where the axle nut goes on. I just ended up taking the dremel and losing those areas that were busted up. Still works fine though


                edit: when the ball joint spins.. that mean its ready to go?

                I tried to do my tie rod this weekend.. the locknut was on there like whoa. Somehow the ball joint on the end was spinning, so i know I need to do it sometime soon.. but is it really on the edge of going?

                And now that I think of it. I hit that tie rod out of the ball joint w/the hammer... which is why I dont usually to that, since it can mess up the ball joint.
                Last edited by aero; 05-01-2005, 08:52 PM.

                Comment


                  #9
                  the ball joint will NOT spin if it is tightened properly. You'll have to find a way to hold the ball joint in place (i use channel locks) and tighten it to specs. I just go until it's tight then line up the hole.

                  to loosen it i use a combination of my jack and a hammer. To get the lower one out i use a 10" 1/2 extension and hit down on the extension which is pried inbetween the ball joint and the control arm.
                  WTB:
                  88-01 prelude 2.0si (3g) si (4g,5g)
                  OR
                  90-93 Accord.

                  Has to be 5spd, has to be CHEAP. SUPER CHEAP. Will be in Indiana in February permanently and want a project car when I get settled in.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by immeraufdemhund
                    the ball joint will NOT spin if it is tightened properly. You'll have to find a way to hold the ball joint in place (i use channel locks) and tighten it to specs. I just go until it's tight then line up the hole.
                    Well, yeah I got it tight, but im just thinkin that if the ball joint spins, then its obviously a little weaker than before. Hopefully it comes off easy, or i'll just go get a cutoff wheel.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      where and what size can i use to buy this tool? im trying to do axles and change the brakes.
                      hahahahah

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X