Jumpy tach

[art vandeleigh]

hey all. well i am having some problems with my 93 accord. it has 157K on it and was running pretty good for the last 10k when just about a few months ago the tach started to jump like crazy all over the place. i was being lazy so i just left it, but then yesterday the car was lurching and the tach was jumping all over.

i thought it was the coil, so after $80 down the drain, the coil did not fix the problem. it is a brand new unit from honda. i am thinking now it could be the ignitor (ICM), but not sure. i dont want to spend another $80 for nothing. I have replaced the cap and rotor within the last 10K miles. any help would be greatly appreciated!!

[clarksterdotcom]

which tach man...RPM's or MPH's?!?!?!

[micksf22accord]

which tach man...RPM's or MPH's?!?!?!

yeah we need to know that shit

[i97supratti]

I thought Tach was tachometer which is RPMs, and the MPH is the speedometer.

[mrhonda]

I've seen this quite a few times before....igniter.

[Bluejayde]

yeah we need to know that shit

Oh my God, that is the funniest shit I've seen in weeks!

Yeah, tach= tachometer. Jeezus.

[aero]

Ignitor or the whole distributor

[starchland]

mine did that, and it was the coil, try the ignitor and test the wire leading from the coil to the dizzy

[jdmkid]

is it missfireing cuz if so i had the same problem and its just a loose wire in the dizzy just pop off the cap and make sure all are pluged in

[wed3k]

it might be cheaper to just replace the dizzy...i meant he ignitor itself was 40 bucks for me

[art vandeleigh]

well, for the first 2 that are confused about what the abbreviation "tach" means, i dont think i will need your input anyway.

for the rest of the people here, i have done a serach and it seems it is the ignitor (ICM) most times than not. i did what the helm said about the voltage test between the 4 wires plugging into the ignitor, they all seemed fine... so i guess i will need to replace the ignitor, but it seems like i will need to remove alot of crap from the dist. area.

how do i get at the ignitor? there is that rotating metal ring right after the rotor...the helms seems to show that a pin goes through it...how the heck do i get that off? it seems i have to get that off before i can remove the rest of the adjacent structures to get at the ignitor. any help please!! thanks again all!!!!

[wed3k]

well, for the first 2 that are confused about what the abbreviation "tach" means, i dont think i will need your input anyway.

for the rest of the people here, i have done a serach and it seems it is the ignitor (ICM) most times than not. i did what the helm said about the voltage test between the 4 wires plugging into the ignitor, they all seemed fine... so i guess i will need to replace the ignitor, but it seems like i will need to remove alot of crap from the dist. area.

how do i get at the ignitor? there is that rotating metal ring right after the rotor...the helms seems to show that a pin goes through it...how the heck do i get that off? it seems i have to get that off before i can remove the rest of the adjacent structures to get at the ignitor. any help please!! thanks again all!!!!

lol...
-3 bolts to take off cap (10mm)
-take off rotor
-take off plastic cover
-there's two screws that are facing you, take those out and you will see the ignitor...
-two screws under the ignitor should take out an assembly attached to the ignitor (also take off wires)
-pull whole thing out, swap old with new and reverse assembly

[91excoupe]

mine was doing that after my swap and it was only jumping like 600 rpm's and it turned out to be a ground for the ecu fixed things.

[art vandeleigh]

there are two different versions, A and B. my ignitor is laying down horizontally pretty deep inside the dist. housing. there is a metal ring that is right after the rotor that prevents me from removing anything. thanks!

[art vandeleigh]

ok hopefully my experience will help others with this problem. first of all this seems like a very common problem with all hondas so dont fret, it can be fixed. 1) first thought it was the coil, replaced and did not fix the problem. 2) then did what a majority of people said and replaced the ignitor (ICM). did not fix the problem. 3) at my very wits end thought i might have to buy and install a new dist. found a link on another site about the tach connection with the ignitor. it is the BLU connection = tach connection and double checked that, not the problem, connection was solid 4) then on the same website they said it could be the ground connection...where you might ask is the ground connection? it is on the thermostat housing. it is a 10mm bolt and it was LOOSE. tightened it down and no more jumpy tach and lurching car!!!

after spending $160 on an OEM coil and ignitor (ICM) it turned out ot be a loose 10mm ground bolt. now thast what i call priceless. my friend and i sat there laughing our asses off. hope this helps other people. check the ground bolt first!!