problems

[bosborne0010]

ok yes i am a noobie but i have been doing alot of research before i decided to make a post.
im driving a 92 accord ex auto with cai, no cat converter, magnaflow exhaust, new sparks, and wires "bosch", new dizzy, and super clean egr ports and valve.
now my problem has lasted me almost since i bought the car. when taking off slow or wot the car hesistates before shifting and any time im running under 2000 rpm the motor just bogs down really hard. i do know that i need a new torque converter because when at cruising speeds the rpms jump slightly when pressing on the throttle and letting of slightly. but im not sure if this is causing my hesitation, loss of power, problem. like i said ive done so much reading on afc, fpr, fmu, map sensor, knock sensor, fiv and everything else under the sun. but im trying to percise in my findings so i dont have to spend a million dollars trying to figure out this problem. so im asking for everyones input and suggestions. thanks all!
i also am pretty sure im running rich or well im wasting a lot of gas about 23 mpg highway and about 20 city. like i said i need all wise men and lucky first time triers to help! let me know if you need more info about anything!

[4GAccordH22]

Well, if your torque converter is slipping badly, it WILL affect your gas mileage. If you know that you need one anyway, why not replace it and see if it fixes your other problems? Also, you might want to check your trans fluid level and if it's low, use HG (Honda Genuine, you get it from the dealer) auto trans fluid to top it off. It may be the trans slipping, not the converter. Just my 2¢

[evol90accord]

Timing?

[bosborne0010]

well... i would like to change my torque converter my self but i dont what all would be involved. i havnt done a search on that one yet. my fluid level seems to be topped and it is with the honda ginuine. (is the torque converter and lockup converter the same thing.) my timing is dead on check by me, family mechanic, and honda! so im sure about that. also i wanted to add, people been saying things about the bosch wire plugs and i will get new ones but this problem has been far before i got those. some questions i was concerned about was when i installed my cai its a race active pipe and i read about the installing part on here and it said to unplug the intake control system and plug the hose coming from the TB. and as for the other hose that runs from the starter valve i put a hole in my intake and put that hose back like it looked with the stock intake?!?. i thought maybe my problems were coming from IAB but who knows. i also check my TPS but when i check for voltage it read 5 volts with the car in the on position not running but when i check for continuty i got nothing so im really not sure if that was supose to be like that. can someone help with with what the tps does exactly and should i have conitinuty. by the way im not setting a code. i have the haynes manual and it says it not working properly is will default to factory. so im gonna unplug it completly and maybe go from there. STILL NEED ALL THE HELP I CAN GET!!!
also to check the tps from closed to WOT should the car be on?

[FishyMan]

NGK vpower (try that).
and CAI, MAKE sure its installed correctly..

make sure u know if its ur trans area or ur engine that's causing u probs. then u'll know. ck plugs to see if ur rich.

i had some bosch on my old civic, they dont' even fit that good...

[evol90accord]

Thats my only problem with Bosch wires is that they don't fit properly on the distributor cap. They just kinda slosh on there, not definate snap into place like you get with stock wires... they seem to work just fine though.

[4GAccordH22]

If I recall correctly, the TPS should read 5V at idle and around 4.5 at WOT. As long as the idle voltage is close, the WOT voltage can vary a small amount. The measurements are taken with the ignition in the "ON" position, but not running (or WOT could cause engine damage). You need to get a couple of backprobes and check it with it plugged into the TPS.

[mrhonda]

If the torque converter is slipping in and out of lock-up when cruising it doesn't mean its bad....yet. This just means the kick-down cable is too loose. Try tightening up the cable to specs and this should take care of the problem, however if you drive with a loose cable too long you will burn up the TC clutch and this will clog up the trans fluid pick-up and then your trans is fuct. If this happens, not only will the torque converter have to be replaced but the trans will have to be taken apart and the pick-up screen will have to be cleaned out or replaced as well.

[bosborne0010]

well thats some scary info.! does anyone know how to change the lockup converter... will i have to take the engine out to get to it? where is it? also mrhonda which cable are you talking about? is that the throttle cable thats extends down into the engine or the throttle cable up top or none of the above?

[mrhonda]

the cable that goes from the TB down to the transmission

[bosborne0010]

anyone know anything else that i might could try? anyone ever noticied their car jumping rpms while setting in idle and in neutral. when i have the car warmed up if i put it in nautral and hold it steady at 2000 rpm it will hold for about 2 secs. then it will get choked up and drop down to about 1500 then it will clear up then return to 2000. could this be cause by running rich? i also notice it while in motion but its very hard to fell it, says honda but i feel it like crazy. oh and i do plan on getting a video so maybe someone can tell that way cause im not the best at just words! thanks for everything!

[bosborne0010]

anyone know how to change lockup converter??