I have had my 90 accord LX for about 3 week now and the Driverside window does not work. I got a new window motor and replaced it. The window went down and that it. It will not come up. All it does it make a humming noise alittle. I hooked up the old one and got the same noise alittle bit. Whats the problem? Is it the switch? Anyone else have this problem? I wanted to get some feedback before I replace the switch.
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04 RSX Type S ABP
Injen CAI
DCRH
Apexi WS2
Nextgear IMG
ESMMs
Revo SS
Capyoda bushings
Neuspeed Race Springs
SPC Rear Camber Kit
198whp@7500 & 141wtq@7000
14.4 with CAI and DCRH only last season.
New track times coming soon.

90 Accord LX 4-door
5-speed
Stock
Daily DriverTags: None
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i have the same probablm, and my solution was to unbolt the 4 bolts that hold the motor in place and leave the 2 that hold the track in place and move it manually. When i touched the motor one time after trying to roll it up it was HOT as all get out.
I wish i knew what the deal was, but i have a good feeling it's my switch...
curious if your switch has seen much moisture? (IE rain?)WTB:
88-01 prelude 2.0si (3g) si (4g,5g)
OR
90-93 Accord.
Has to be 5spd, has to be CHEAP. SUPER CHEAP. Will be in Indiana in February permanently and want a project car when I get settled in.



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I haven't seen any moisture problem with mine. I'm going to take it apart today and see if I can fix it.04 RSX Type S ABP
Injen CAI
DCRH
Apexi WS2
Nextgear IMG
ESMMs
Revo SS
Capyoda bushings
Neuspeed Race Springs
SPC Rear Camber Kit
198whp@7500 & 141wtq@7000
14.4 with CAI and DCRH only last season.
New track times coming soon.

90 Accord LX 4-door
5-speed
Stock
Daily Driver
Comment
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I got one from ebay for $54 shipped.04 RSX Type S ABP
Injen CAI
DCRH
Apexi WS2
Nextgear IMG
ESMMs
Revo SS
Capyoda bushings
Neuspeed Race Springs
SPC Rear Camber Kit
198whp@7500 & 141wtq@7000
14.4 with CAI and DCRH only last season.
New track times coming soon.

90 Accord LX 4-door
5-speed
Stock
Daily Driver
Comment
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You had the money to spend right? OEM is gonna fit a whole lot better than that 100 one from autozone. I have an autozone motor, and it makes some god awful noises in the summer, and I can actually see my door panel move. It only does it when its hot out too, which is really weird. Can't figure out whats rubbing though, because I can't see the backside of the door without taking the skin offOriginally posted by fac90I replaced the motor and solved the problem. But, its moves down slow for a little bit because the run channel is worn out. The only mistake I made was buying a new one from the dealer for $195, I should have gotten the autozone one for $100. This sucks.
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I was in a real hurry to fix it because the car failed inspection and I went over the repair period. Since it gives cops a good excuse to pull you over with a rejected inspection sticker especially late at night and being slapped with a $130 fine, I was left no choice.Originally posted by evol90accordYou had the money to spend right? OEM is gonna fit a whole lot better than that 100 one from autozone. I have an autozone motor, and it makes some god awful noises in the summer, and I can actually see my door panel move. It only does it when its hot out too, which is really weird. Can't figure out whats rubbing though, because I can't see the backside of the door without taking the skin off
There are good rebuilt motors available, but they wont last as a new one. Replacing the window motor is not a fun job.
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I got a meter out today and check my switch and its bad. I'll have to get a new one. Honda wants $100. Thats crazy. Anyone got one laying around? lol04 RSX Type S ABP
Injen CAI
DCRH
Apexi WS2
Nextgear IMG
ESMMs
Revo SS
Capyoda bushings
Neuspeed Race Springs
SPC Rear Camber Kit
198whp@7500 & 141wtq@7000
14.4 with CAI and DCRH only last season.
New track times coming soon.

90 Accord LX 4-door
5-speed
Stock
Daily Driver
Comment
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hey dont forget to check the motor while you have the door panel off. You can do that by running 12v and ground to 2 wires on the motor. one way it goes up switch it and it goes down. If i remember correctly it's the left 2 if the clip thingy is on top. i dont know the colors off the top of my head. The haynes manuel says alittle bit about it.WTB:
88-01 prelude 2.0si (3g) si (4g,5g)
OR
90-93 Accord.
Has to be 5spd, has to be CHEAP. SUPER CHEAP. Will be in Indiana in February permanently and want a project car when I get settled in.



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My windows (Lx wagon .both rear) have same problem. Both go up very slow and stop just before reaching the top. Has a "crunching" sound. Took pannel off and nothing seems to be in the way to cause that sound. sprayed with silicone and still no function. Was told motor and regulators are bad. Now I'm no machanic and I have done small work but the inside of this looks very hard to do. Can someone do ( or have they done)a DIY on the removal and install? The books I searched are too vauge. Are the regulators and motors on E-bay a good choice or get them from dealer. Junk yard? Rather have them new then rely on used and have same problems.
Old wagon - Silver '92 LX Wagon - Steve (Shadow)- STOLEN ON LABOR DAY 2012
New wagon- White '92 LX Wagon on 1/3/13 (Frostbite)
2000 EX Coupe - Joe -

www.AccordWagonClub.com
My Facebook Site - ACCORDOBSESSION
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Its not worth the trouble of doing it yourself, take it to auto electric specialist. They know how to do this job. Removing the door panel is the hardest step and it seems you already have done this. Just take it with the door panels removed and it will save some money. By the way, the mechanic told me that you can cut your hand when the regulator is removed from the motor due to the spring action, leave it for the pros.Originally posted by SilverShadowMy windows (Lx wagon .both rear) have same problem. Both go up very slow and stop just before reaching the top. Has a "crunching" sound. Took pannel off and nothing seems to be in the way to cause that sound. sprayed with silicone and still no function. Was told motor and regulators are bad. Now I'm no machanic and I have done small work but the inside of this looks very hard to do. Can someone do ( or have they done)a DIY on the removal and install? The books I searched are too vauge. Are the regulators and motors on E-bay a good choice or get them from dealer. Junk yard? Rather have them new then rely on used and have same problems.
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Junkyards are your friend. I would be thouroughly surprised if you can't find what you are looking for there.Fix your Computer!
Originally posted by MikeWD, I'm a fanciful motherfucker. My ish is clean, quick, plush, mature and sophisticated.
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The "pros" wanted $400 to do it! I don't think I got that type of $ and now it is both rears. the junkyard statement sounds good but #1 hope they take it from junk car cause I can't and #2 will it be in good condition? and #3 I'll have to either pay or learn on my own how to install it cause I've run out of money to pay the "pros" or leave them up and go on my merry way, till I do.Originally posted by fac90Its not worth the trouble of doing it yourself, take it to auto electric specialist. They know how to do this job. Removing the door panel is the hardest step and it seems you already have done this. Just take it with the door panels removed and it will save some money. By the way, the mechanic told me that you can cut your hand when the regulator is removed from the motor due to the spring action, leave it for the pros.
Old wagon - Silver '92 LX Wagon - Steve (Shadow)- STOLEN ON LABOR DAY 2012
New wagon- White '92 LX Wagon on 1/3/13 (Frostbite)
2000 EX Coupe - Joe -

www.AccordWagonClub.com
My Facebook Site - ACCORDOBSESSION
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The rears are a bit of a PITA to do. Get a haynes manual, it'll walk you through it. Most likely the little plastic thing that guides the cable broke on your regulator, but unfortunately you still have to replace the whole thing even though the motor is probably good. So no matter what, your stuck buying new regulators/motors... but you can save money on labor. It's really not that hard, just time consuming.
I don't know about cutting your hand because of a "spring action" cuz there is none, but you can easily hurt yourself on the sharp edges of the door cutouts or the window falling on your arm while your trying to remove it from the regulator. Have a friend help you hold the glass while you remove it from the regulator and then pull it out of the car so you don't break it.
The overall process is pretty simple: Take the panel off, disconnect 2 or 3 plugs, unbolt the glass from the regulator and pull it out, unbolt the regulator and remove it. Installation is reverse of removal.
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Thanks so much! I will let you know how I've done once I get all the stuff. Right side panel is off (and yes it was a pain at first, my friend did cut his hand on door cut -outs ) and found a small piece of white plastic is broken that went on metal chanel between inside door and window. Update after I buy the regulator and motor next month. (Two years ago a asshole never stopped after slamming me at a stop light in Burbank,Ca. so no work for now).Originally posted by evol90accordThe rears are a bit of a PITA to do. Get a haynes manual, it'll walk you through it. Most likely the little plastic thing that guides the cable broke on your regulator, but unfortunately you still have to replace the whole thing even though the motor is probably good. So no matter what, your stuck buying new regulators/motors... but you can save money on labor. It's really not that hard, just time consuming.
I don't know about cutting your hand because of a "spring action" cuz there is none, but you can easily hurt yourself on the sharp edges of the door cutouts or the window falling on your arm while your trying to remove it from the regulator. Have a friend help you hold the glass while you remove it from the regulator and then pull it out of the car so you don't break it.
The overall process is pretty simple: Take the panel off, disconnect 2 or 3 plugs, unbolt the glass from the regulator and pull it out, unbolt the regulator and remove it. Installation is reverse of removal.
Old wagon - Silver '92 LX Wagon - Steve (Shadow)- STOLEN ON LABOR DAY 2012
New wagon- White '92 LX Wagon on 1/3/13 (Frostbite)
2000 EX Coupe - Joe -

www.AccordWagonClub.com
My Facebook Site - ACCORDOBSESSION
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