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    problems have arisen after tranny swap

    ok every since i have done the swap a couple things just ain't right... tell me whats wrong, and the ones i know tell me if i am in the right direction

    1. the steering wheel vibrates at idle, and doesn't matter what gear i am in it will continue to vibrate until i push the gas. (motor mounts?)

    2. between 40-55 the ENTIRE car shakes to the point where it feels like its gonna fall apart (i think its the tie rod end, possible alignment problems, def not the tires being unbalanced)

    3. when i brake i get the meanest vibrations (warped to shit rotors)

    4. whenever the clutch engages in first, second, and third gear it makes a sort of clicking noise...

    5. brake pedal depresses all the way at times (brake master cylinder/kink in brake hoses)

    6. there is a hose under the car that leaks a vast amount of liquid ( its the ac)

    7. i have a MASSIVE exhaust rattle, and it appears as if everything (hangars) is where it should be... however i did put the car in a ditch not to long ago... and i hit the exhaust against the ground...

    8. the car never idles at the same point twice, sometimes as low as 900, sometime close to 1500 (cold/warm idle)

    9. when i hit the gas the car isn't as responsive as it used to be, feels like there is a powerloss before 3500, but after 4000 it pulls WAY harder than it ever did...

    thanks for the help...
    Last edited by flacopower; 06-10-2005, 08:19 PM.

    #2
    1- motor mounts

    2, 3, 5, 7- sounds like you have something to go on already

    6- he's right if its under the passenger side firewall.

    8- one is cold idle and the other is warm idle


    Go get your brakes fixed before anything else. Safety first.
    Former: 90 Accord EX Coupe, 93 10th Anniversary in Frost White

    1985 Volvo 245 manual [IPD lowering springs, IPD sway bars, OEM Virgo wheels, 1977 quad round headlights, 1978 grill]
    2001 Mazda B3000 SE 4x4 extended cab [stock except for CB radio]
    2008 Ford Escape XLT [bone stock]
    2015 Toyota Prius Three with solar roof [rear diffuser, Vision Cross wheels... cheaper than steelies!]

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by ACCORDianate
      1- motor mounts

      2, 3, 5, 7- sounds like you have something to go on already

      6- he's right if its under the passenger side firewall.

      8- one is cold idle and the other is warm idle


      Go get your brakes fixed before anything else. Safety first.

      awesome.
      6 you are right
      8 sorry if this is noobish but how can i have cold idle when its 90 degrees outside???
      1-mounts when checking mounts what do i look for??

      Comment


        #4
        anyhow yes fix the brakes first. might need new master cylinder, rotors .. etc.et.c.

        take it one at a time, good luk.
        hahahahah

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by FishyMan
          take it one at a time, good luk.
          i'm rich bitch! i can fix it all at once! sike have the money just not the damn time... but rotors are beyond fucked... and since i am probably gonna be working on brake shit sunday, is there anything that can be done to the drums in the rear??

          Comment


            #6
            damn if u have the money, that's all u need.... i mean u can get it done at the shops.. part of the reason is for me, im poor and wanna do things my own and learn, so ya...


            u can take the drums apart or get new ones... since u got teh dough,why not change it or swap to dsics?
            hahahahah

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by flacopower
              awesome.
              8 sorry if this is noobish but how can i have cold idle when its 90 degrees outside???
              cold idle refers to the engine temperature, not the outside temp. Cold idle is when the car has been sitting for numerous hours, and it has to go through cold idle (slightly higher then warm) to achieve normal operating temperatures.


              Formerly 91AccordExR33
              11.68 @ 127mph
              417whp/375wtq
              Sold: 8/2016

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by flacopower
                ok every since i have done the swap a couple things just ain't right... tell me whats wrong, and the ones i know tell me if i am in the right direction

                1. the steering wheel vibrates at idle, and doesn't matter what gear i am in it will continue to vibrate until i push the gas. (motor mounts?)

                2. between 40-55 the ENTIRE car shakes to the point where it feels like its gonna fall apart (i think its the tie rod end, possible alignment problems, def not the tires being unbalanced)

                3. when i brake i get the meanest vibrations (warped to shit rotors)

                4. whenever the clutch engages in first, second, and third gear it makes a sort of clicking noise...

                5. brake pedal depresses all the way at times (brake master cylinder/kink in brake hoses)

                6. there is a hose under the car that leaks a vast amount of liquid ( its the ac)

                7. i have a MASSIVE exhaust rattle, and it appears as if everything (hangars) is where it should be... however i did put the car in a ditch not to long ago... and i hit the exhaust against the ground...

                8. the car never idles at the same point twice, sometimes as low as 900, sometime close to 1500 (cold/warm idle)

                9. when i hit the gas the car isn't as responsive as it used to be, feels like there is a powerloss before 3500, but after 4000 it pulls WAY harder than it ever did...

                thanks for the help...

                1. Manual tranny swap? There should be mounts with bushings mounted to it, maybe you didnt replace some of them or didnt mount everything tight? check your work.

                2. Im not sure what this has to do with your tranny. I suppose you could have mounted the tranny wrong and unbalanced the centerline of the car...did this start right after the swap? Or maybe the tranny isnt bolted down right and its shaking at high speeds, causing the car to shake.

                3. you said it

                4.hmmm, this could be tricky and could be various things. Could be something internal with the tranny, were did you buy this from? reliable source? First thing to always look at with trannys is linkage, check this first and go from there. Could even be an inner cv joint, check the play of your halfshafts through a oem manual guide.

                5. doubt its a kink in the hose, im sure its one of the piston seals in the master cyl is gone, but most likely its a ripped line causing fluid to escape...once you fix this make sure you do the proper bleed precedure to bleed the brakes, may have to take out your master cyl and bench bleed it to get the air out, otherwise you will get spongy/non responsive brakes

                6. ac line that leaks lots of fluid..hmm, prolly by your compressor, check around there, other than that all there is in the lines is refrig, which you cant see, and oil, which is prolly it, mostly around the compressor, or the service ports may be leaking

                7.just check around under everything, you prolly ripped the hell out of it

                8.are you saying 90 degrees it idles high right when you start it or after a few minutes? it should idle high like you said around 1k-1500 for a few minutes until it warms up, if its idling this high after the car has been heated up, take it to a shop, it could be anything from the idle adjustment to a vacuum line below the intake manifold that a rat chew up

                9. like some of the others, it could be anything. Any check engine lights, codes? Check around your work and see if you forgot to connect vac lines or anything else, other than that there isnt much anyone can do without looking at the car.

                -nick

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by jdmhotness
                  9. like some of the others, it could be anything. Any check engine lights, codes? Check around your work and see if you forgot to connect vac lines or anything else, other than that there isnt much anyone can do without looking at the car.
                  no no check engine lights, i already checked all the lines i think it may be related to the exhaust....

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