Bad Alternator

[93EXaesthetic]

.. Well i started my car just fine..and then started driving an my car started bogging down. so i keep trying to give it gas...it keeps hopping a long and im like fuck that and stop the car... i get it jumped and it runs then bogs down again....i push my autostart..and here the distributor clicking... well anyways i am pretty sure its the alternator.. i also smelled something burning and i was guessing it was my alternator going kaput....but i am thinking about switching to a H/O alternator... what do you think about this alternator on ebay? "90-93 NEW HONDA ACCORD HIGH OUTPUT ALTERNATOR 150 AMPS" it puts out 150 instead of 110..probably make my car run better what do you guys think about high output alternators any experience??? I have heard that high output alternators make your ride perform better..i read that somewhere on this big ass internet :P

[RyderzUnlimited]

just take it to autozone or pepboys, and they will test it for you. before you go and buy another one. unless you just want to upgrade anyway.

[93EXaesthetic]

just take it to autozone or pepboys, and they will test it for you. before you go and buy another one. unless you just want to upgrade anyway.

thanks im gonna hit them up in the morning..i might get the 80 amp one..and then take it when if i order the 150 amp one...thats prolly why it blew in the 1st place cuz my ICE. thanks!

btw ...what time does autozone open in the morning 9?

[h22sparkle]

to test the altenator just start up the car and pull the negative side cable off the battery terminal if the car shuts off by itself its pretty much ready to be rebuilt.

[Masamune]

It doesn't need to be replaced, just rebuilt. Mine crapped out on my previous accord at 222k miles. I pulled it out, called up a few shops and said I needed an alternator rebuilt. Make sure to tell them that you took it out already. When it was all said and done for me, the cost was $20.

But on the other hand, if your ICE is putting that much strain on the alternator, you may want to consider not only a high-output alternator, but also a stiffening capacitor. That is, if you have a sub or two and a decent wattage amp. If that's the case, i'm sure youve noticed the headlights dimming when you turn up the bass. A stiffening capacitor will fix that no problem. I can't really recommend any specific one, but for what i've read the expensive ones do the same as the cheap ones. I would research it a bit more if I were you though.

[93EXaesthetic]

It doesn't need to be replaced, just rebuilt. Mine crapped out on my previous accord at 222k miles. I pulled it out, called up a few shops and said I needed an alternator rebuilt. Make sure to tell them that you took it out already. When it was all said and done for me, the cost was $20.

But on the other hand, if your ICE is putting that much strain on the alternator, you may want to consider not only a high-output alternator, but also a stiffening capacitor. That is, if you have a sub or two and a decent wattage amp. If that's the case, i'm sure youve noticed the headlights dimming when you turn up the bass. A stiffening capacitor will fix that no problem. I can't really recommend any specific one, but for what i've read the expensive ones do the same as the cheap ones. I would research it a bit more if I were you though.

thanks dog ...i got a 1 farad capacitor already .. i might look into getting it rebuilt..but i might just throw the extra dough for the autozone one..cuz thats my daily driver..gotta avoid the hassle :P

[93EXaesthetic]

to test the altenator just start up the car and pull the negative side cable off the battery terminal if the car shuts off by itself its pretty much ready to be rebuilt.

thanks i tested and my car did shut off............i found the answer to the problem...it seems as if my car got corroded terminals...on this alternator noise reducer..........made by pac ans 80---im gonna throw some wd 40 and seal it with electrical tape!

[lowrider]

.. Well i started my car just fine..and then started driving an my car started bogging down. so i keep trying to give it gas...it keeps hopping a long and im like fuck that and stop the car... i get it jumped and it runs then bogs down again....i push my autostart..and here the distributor clicking... well anyways i am pretty sure its the alternator.. i also smelled something burning and i was guessing it was my alternator going kaput....but i am thinking about switching to a H/O alternator... what do you think about this alternator on ebay? "90-93 NEW HONDA ACCORD HIGH OUTPUT ALTERNATOR 150 AMPS" it puts out 150 instead of 110..probably make my car run better what do you guys think about high output alternators any experience??? I have heard that high output alternators make your ride perform better..i read that somewhere on this big ass internet :P

if it was the alternator wouldn't the battery light come on saying their is something wrong with the charging system?????????????????? i had my alternator go on me on my way to a service. alternator went, battery light came on and eventually my battery died. so yea battery light should come on if alternator problem.

[lowrider]

o i forgot, when u go with H/O alternator only get the right amperage for your needs. and our cars alternators only put out about 80 i beleive not 110. 110 is like H/O lol. if u got a pumping stereo system with neons and ignition system and what not then 150 is good. otherwise 110 would be ok i would think.

[93EXaesthetic]

o i forgot, when u go with H/O alternator only get the right amperage for your needs. and our cars alternators only put out about 80 i beleive not 110. 110 is like H/O lol. if u got a pumping stereo system with neons and ignition system and what not then 150 is good. otherwise 110 would be ok i would think.

yeah i only seen the 150 h/o.. excuse my typo for the 110..hehe..i need to stop drinking caffiene energy drinks

[Masamune]

After thinking about it and chatting with some friends...I don't think it's your ICE that caused the alternator to go. It was just old I guess... and like I said earlier, the H/O alternator will basically recharge the battery faster than the standard one. This means more juice can be sucked from the battery w/o fear of draining it. Just FYI.

[93EXaesthetic]

After thinking about it and chatting with some friends...I don't think it's your ICE that caused the alternator to go. It was just old I guess... and like I said earlier, the H/O alternator will basically recharge the battery faster than the standard one. This means more juice can be sucked from the battery w/o fear of draining it. Just FYI.

w0rd up..im not draining that much..just an eclipse 4 chan and a 800 x 2 roc foz....its not the alternator..it was the ANS pac 80 i connected to it an alternator noise suppressor..i solved the problem... Just FYI

[accordztech]

amps and stuff drain it over time, it draws power and then the alternator makes up for it, but thats just the same as turning on the AC and stuff. alternators if they havent gone yet and its still OEM then it will go soon. mine finally went out at 210k.

the battery light turns on when the alternator is bad. like if the system is trying to charge but the voltage just keeps going down a SIGNIFICANT amount. but in small voltage drops or near low stable drops it wont.

my battery light didnt come on until a few days later and then it stayed on for a few seconds and went away. i poped out the voltage meter and the car was steady at 12 volts...once i saw it drop the battery light turned on.

before with my old alternator my car read at 13.2v at idle, now its 14.4 =) with the new autozone lifetime warrenty alternator.