car shaking, not motor mounts?

[cjv998]

Ok, I bought a 92 EX 3 weeks ago (automatic if it helps any), and the stupid thing is still being worked on (I only got to drive it home from my dad's shop). Anyway, when I start it up (with the AC on), it vibrates a lot if I put it into reverse, and accelerating from a stop (but not nearly as badly as when it's in reverse, just noticeable). However, it ran great once I got it on the highway. Independent rear suspension and sway bars make a big difference, hahaha (and I suppose the ~1000 pound weight difference can't hurt any either). My dad put it up on a lift and said the motor mounts looked fine, although I was thinking the inside of the inserts could possibly be rotted out. The passenger's side outer CV joint boot is torn, so I'll be replacing the half-shaft. Also, it leaks oil and antifreeze, and needs new tires and an alignment (the inside edge of the tires is worn more, too much negative camber), and the ABS light is on, so it sounds like I may need a wheel speed sensor there, and has an exhaust leak. I hate to say it guys, but I think my crappy 20 year old Cutlass runs better than this. Anyway, back to my main question: why is the car shaking? Thanks!

[RICHIE*GT35R]

damn i got the same problem.... come cb7 owners help us out!!!

[xaxis360]

You most likely need a new front and rear engine mount. Many times, you don't realize how bad they are until you remove them and see the cracks and rot up close.

If you are just looking for an easy fix, just replace the front mount (torque rod). I'm sure you will notice a difference especially when in reverse. The only thing is, if the front mount is bad, the rear usually goes bad shortly thereafter from the stress of not having the front mount to share the torque of the engine. The rear mount is not easy to replace. There is a service bulletin I posted on here somewhere that outlines how to do it. It's easy to unbolt and get loose. But it's like a jigsaw puzzle to get around its bracket on top of the crossmember, behind the engine, then out underneath. Also, you have to remove the left driveshaft, so that may be a good time to look at buying a Honda Reman'd shaft in its place.

[br0nx finest]

Its more than likely that it is your motor mounts, and automatics suffer alot from the reverse shake. Changing the front mount will help, but do yourself a favor and do both the rear and front at the same time, you should have postive results, good luck

[cjv998]

So when you say the left half-shaft needs to be removed, that's the driver's side one, correct?

[immeraufdemhund]

yes, but not the half shaft. the axel that goes from the tranny to the block..well sorta the block it bolts on. I wonder if you could remove the drivers side engine mount and either lift or lower the motor enough to remove that rear mount without too much trouble, I was fixing to try this soon, but i noticed that my spring on the drivers side is broke. i get crazy shaking going 60 and above when i decelerate.

[TonK]

I've learned to live with it

As long as the motor mounts are not terribly bad, I can deal with it.

Does anyone make a complete motor mount poly set?

My shaking may not be as bad as you guys, but its there.

Let me know how the fix does...

Also, is it a hazard to drive with [old] mounts?

[FishyMan]

Well welcome aboard.

I think you should fix the necessary stuffs first. Such as your coolant leaking, oil, alignment etc. Get all that fixed.

By the way, how many miles is the car?

I think this motor mount thing is often hard to diagnose. What I mean is, I experienced a really bad shake in reverse, and at times during right-turns (taking that stop), and etc. My car would vibrate and shake, but whenever it was on the go, it ran smoothe.

I suspect it to be something relating to idle? I may seem crazy, but I swapped my stock box intake and added a cone to it. I've resetted my ECU and I noticed that the car is MUCH MUCH better in Reverse, Stop Light Idles and what not.

If your dad says the motor mounts are fine then it may well just be an idle adjustment? I know mines don't look too bad, but I know I'll change mines later. I have about 83k and an auto. The rear mount is mostly the culprit though as mentioned.

*Food for thought, I heard there was a motor mount that was controlled by FLUID FILLED chambers?

Page 2A-17 in my haynes manual. It mentions about smoothing out during a/c use. etc etc.

Ck it out and let us all know .

[mrvinyl33]

I won't ask what it might cost $$$ to replace all motor mounts at a dealership.

[mrhonda]

Also, if an aftermarket shop did the last timing belt, they probably got the balance shafts out-of-time.

[FDAccord]

my car did the same, rear mount looked fine, this past week when i removed the motor, came to show my rear motor mount was cracked right across the middle.

[cjv998]

The car has got 205000 miles on it (I'm amazed the transmission is as smooth as it is). I plan on removing the passenger's side half-shaft tonight so I can take it in and get in replaced, along with finding out where my coolant leak is coming from. I noticed the Haynes manual mentions having to drain the tranny fluid before I remove the half-shaft. Why is that?

[mrvinyl33]

Yeah I cannot complain for 218k miles either. (Had dealership do timing belt). My car has similar symptoms in reverse (automatic) without the standard clunking sounds that can occur when you know for sure the mounts are all shot. It sounds like mine will need to be replaced---not counting OEM struts and/or springs (I believe its them that I hear when its wet out) in another year if not sooner.

I'm sure replacing the mounts will be cost plenty at a dealer esp. for the labor of the rear mount.

[cjv998]

Well, I drained the transmission fluid (it looked like the original fluid still) and got the old half-shaft out by using an impact wrench on the axle nut. I'm gonna go exchange it tonight. However, I almost found out where my coolant is leaking from. On the back (facing the firewall) side of the radiator in the middle near the bottom, I have a hole where it seems like a drain plug should go. What part am I missing here, and will I need to replace the entire radiator? Thanks again!

[clarksterdotcom]

Well, I drained the transmission fluid (it looked like the original fluid still) and got the old half-shaft out by using an impact wrench on the axle nut. I'm gonna go exchange it tonight. However, I almost found out where my coolant is leaking from. On the back (facing the firewall) side of the radiator in the middle near the bottom, I have a hole where it seems like a drain plug should go. What part am I missing here, and will I need to replace the entire radiator? Thanks again!

gonna need a pic but if a plug goes where you are speaking of you should see/feel threads.

and unfortuneately my rear mount is shot.. found out last night when i cahnged settings on my 4bidden short shifter.. ARGH.. shit makes a bad squeaking/thudding sound when im at slow speeds but makes no noise at high speeds..

and when i leave my hood open and start the car you can see the motor JUMP!.. i think thats a sign that your mounts are pretty much shot.